Converting 3pd manual from column to floor.

[mycuda]

How difficult to do on a /6?
Also how different/ or easier changing to small block w/ floor Shifter ?
Is /6 trans interchangeble - bellhousing etc?

thinking of buying my first early A.

Thanks in advance,
Dave

 

[Slantsix64]

How difficult to do on a /6?
Also how different/ or easier changing to small block w/ floor Shifter ?
Is /6 trans interchangeble - bellhousing etc?

thinking of buying my first early A.

Thanks in advance,
Dave

i was going to do this but i found out the three speed a903 column does not have a place to mount the shifter on. unless you know how to weld and make something to mount it on. so i ended up just putting on a 4 speed instead. if you put a four speed use the early ball and trunion it was a low first gear that gives extra balls behind a slant six. if you use a later 4 speed with an overdrive i dont think you can use your /6 bellhousing you have now.

 

[Slantsix64]

i was going to do this but i found out the three speed a903 column does not have a place to mount the shifter on. unless you know how to weld and make something to mount it on. so i ended up just putting on a 4 speed instead. if you put a four speed use the early ball and trunion it was a low first gear that gives extra balls behind a slant six. if you use a later 4 speed with an overdrive i dont think you can use your /6 bellhousing you have now.

Slant six and v8 bell housing are different.

 

[Claydart]

Been there, done that! I had to buy a Hurst Indy SSA 3 speed shifter. It had all the parts needed to install the shifter on the floor. That being said, it was extremely difficult to find a shift hump for my 64 Dart GT. So if you are thinking about a 63 or 64, then be prepared to surf the net to find all the goodies that you will need. I did and I had a great time doing this conversion, but the 3 speed just does not do anything for me anymore, so I am now putting in a 64 A833 4-speed that I rebuilt. Photos will come soon, after I finish my knee surgery recovery.

 

[jw97neon]

my 64 has been switched from Column to the floor. I did not do it myself but I do know the floor was only cut. it is not pretty but works. I drive the car once or twice a week. I would love to find a 4 speed for it. does anyone know if the 4 speed will except my 3 speed bell housing?

 

[mycuda]

Thanks, keep it coming.
Looking at 65 dart convertible 3 speed on tree, that's a mess,
Just wondering of conversion to see if it's worth my sweat labor.
If I put small block and 4spd will pedals, z bar work.?

Thanks Dave

 

[paulclark]

I converted my 65 barracuda from 3 on the tree to a 4-speed when I swapped the slant six for a smallblock. All the clutch linkage and z-bar, pedals etc cross right over. I cut a hole in the floor and mounted a floor hump (original, but there are repro ones I think now). At the time I just left the old column in place, and nobody seemed to notice that there was both a floor shifter AND a column shifter (unhooked).

Other things about this swap you didn't mention:

-Swap the /6 gas pedal and linkage for a V8 pedal and cable. there are nice repro early A pedal rubbers on ebay.

-Swap the /6 radiator for a V8 A-body radiator with the inlet on the other side. Any A-body should fit but early ones have a rounded look.

-The center link is different - the V8 one drops lower - but many people find they don't need it if they just shim the motor on its motor mounts to gain a little clearance.

-The motor you use will need an a-body pan, best early a, which has a cutout for the steering link. Same as above about clearance.

-In an early A you'll need a right angle oil filter adapter, which won't be there if the motor is from a later A-body.

-Unless you are building a drag car, upgrade the torsion bar front springs - /6 cars had the smallest, and there are thicker ones for smallblock, bigblock, and then on up for more sporty handling. Running smallblock bars with a smallblock makes it 'normal' which is a little soft for modern standards. The bigblock bars on an early A with a smallblock are nice and crisp without making it feel like you're driving a lumber truck. (if you are building a drag car you'll want the /6 bars to help weight transfer, but it's not great for cornering)

-if your car has 9" front drum brakes PLEASE at least upgrade to 10" drums. Discs are better of course, but 10" drums are OK. 9" drums are just barely almost Ok if you keep them adjusted and maintained but if anything goes wrong you are screwed. Also recommend swapping to a dual master cylinder for safety. If the car has not been running you'll wind up replacing the MC and wheel cylinders anyway so might as well start that way. 10" drums also allow you to run the original 13" wheel covers which are so beautiful! (although nobody but me seems to care about them, so YMMV)

In general this is a very easy swap. Two details to get right to save hassle - the clutch, smallblock bellhousing, and gearbox input bearing have to fit each other. Likewise the shifter rods should be an original set with shifter. Piecing either of these sets of components together piece by piece is a PIA. Best scenario is to buy a transmission, bellhousing, and complete shifter that originally came together.

 

[mycuda]

I converted my 65 barracuda from 3 on the tree to a 4-speed when I swapped the slant six for a smallblock. All the clutch linkage and z-bar, pedals etc cross right over. I cut a hole in the floor and mounted a floor hump (original, but there are repro ones I think now). At the time I just left the old column in place, and nobody seemed to notice that there was both a floor shifter AND a column shifter (unhooked).

Other things about this swap you didn't mention:

-Swap the /6 gas pedal and linkage for a V8 pedal and cable. there are nice repro early A pedal rubbers on ebay.

-Swap the /6 radiator for a V8 A-body radiator with the inlet on the other side. Any A-body should fit but early ones have a rounded look.

-The center link is different - the V8 one drops lower - but many people find they don't need it if they just shim the motor on its motor mounts to gain a little clearance.

-The motor you use will need an a-body pan, best early a, which has a cutout for the steering link. Same as above about clearance.

-Unless you are building a drag car, upgrade the torsion bar front springs - /6 cars had the smallest, and there are thicker ones for smallblock, bigblock, and then on up for more sporty handling. Running smallblock bars with a smallblock makes it 'normal' which is a little soft for modern standards. The bigblock bars on an early A with a smallblock are nice and crisp without making it feel like you're driving a lumber truck. (if you are building a drag car you'll want the /6 bars to help weight transfer, but it's not great for cornering)

-if your car has 9" front drum brakes PLEASE at least upgrade to 10" drums. Discs are better of course, but 10" are OK. 9" are just barely almost Ok if you keep them adjusted and maintained but if anything goes wrong you are screwed. Also recommend swapping to a dual master cylinder for safety. If the car has not been running you'll wind up replacing the MC and wheel cylinders anyway so might as well start that way. 10" drums also allow you to run the original 13" wheel covers which are so beautiful! (although nobody but me seems to care about them, so YMMV)

In general this is a very easy swap. Two details to get right to save hassle - the clutch, smallblock bellhousing, and gearbox input bearing have to fit each other. Likewise the shifter rods should be an original set with shifter. Piecing either of these sets of components together piece by piece is a PIA. Best scenario is to buy a transmission, bellhousing, and complete shifter that originally came together.

Thanks, this car needs a bunch of help.Quarters for sure or panels cant seem to find much
but patch panels. Frame repair DS where attaches to floor boards. Rear frame PS far enough away from leaf mounts to repair. Positives, /6 runs good, car only 90k miles
interior good condition evrything works except broken turnsignal lever. + convertible
top good condition with yellowed rear window.
Is this car worth my time? ( I said this about every mopar ive bought,lol)
How rare is this car? not a GT but 3spd/convert. What is it worth?
will make decision next day or 2
Dave

Again, I thin

 

[paulclark]

hell yeah! the things you describe can be repaired. Early A convertibles are rare, if not pricey, at least desirable (I wish I had one!) Go for it!

Keeping in mind - what is the going price for a car with all this work already done? And figure it will cost you double the increase in value - $1000 spent raises the value $500. if you enjoy the work or love the car, that leverages things. But you owe it to yourself to make the comparison.

I myself would jump in without hesitation, but that's why I have six early A's

 

[paulclark]

Two things I understand are real deal killers - extensive rustaway to the crossmember where the T-bars attach, and serious collision damage to the B-pillar area. Both of those can get involved.

Since this is a convertible you should consider welding in subframe connectors, these aren't expensive and will really help eliminate body flex. This would be a good time to weld in replacement floorboard panels too.

 

[paulclark]

What year is this? There's a little clearance issue with the firewall and distributor in 63's. (sledgehammer solution, but WAY easier with the engine out)

Got pics to share yet?

 

[mycuda]

65 dart.
The rusted frame area driverside seems ffar enough away from tbar.
Ya, did frame supports on my 67 cuda in avatar,actually made my own.
Plastic bubbling everywhere lower body, know what that means. been sniffind dust and paint too many years.

we'll see.......

Dave

 

[mycuda]

The 65 dart vert /6 3spd is in my hands now.
Trunk floorboards good. Firewall good.
Just the frame area where connects to DS floorboard.
And rear PS where connects to rear floor.

I'm stoked spent few hours removing trim tail lights grill etc.

Need sheet metal DS quarter banged up, PS quarter possible patch panels?
Rockers, jambs solid as hell.

This is a running stoping car. Drive train worth half what I paid.

D.

 

[paulclark]

Good news! Can't wait to see pics

 

[mycuda]

Good news! Can't wait to see pics

Pics coming later today.
Again driverside quarter side swiped, patch panels would be difficult and I do body/paint.
any info on DS quarter from top bodyline down would be appreciated,rusted out on bottom or not.

Thanks Dave

 

[mycuda]

Heres pics. First 2 I think are the best a body rear view pics IMO.

 

[paulclark]

Looks great! Not perfect but together, all there, clean! Should be great to see it shine.

 

[Claydart]

The three speed bellhousing will not work with the A833 4-speed if it is original to the car, I dont think that there is a combo one until the A833 3 speed w/OD came about. But if I remember it right, the clutch linkage and fork and bellcrank will all work.

 

[Claydart]

I also got a fiberglass floor hump from Brewers Performance for my swap and it was a perfect fit. I think that it was made for 64-66 a-bodies.