I have an opportunity to acquire a R3 block that is dry sump. I would like to convert it to a wet sump. The block does not have the oil filter part cast into the block. Is it possible to convert to a wet sump? I know I will need an internal oil pump and a wet sump pan, what els needs to be done? I have never dealt with a dry sump system
Converting a R3 block to wet sump?
- Thread starter mopfried
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I do believe that is possible but a lot of machining.
That is likely a 9.00” deck height block by the way. You may want to ask about the deck height if you are looking for a certain deck height for your build.
That is likely a 9.00” deck height block by the way. You may want to ask about the deck height if you are looking for a certain deck height for your build.
Also could be have 48 degree lifter bores that take a Special cam and needle bearings. Some of the blocks take special parts to use.
W7 or higher number heads or Edelbrock Victors for 9 inch deck height block as a starting point and it doesn't get any cheaper from there.
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
Is that the R3 on FBMP? If so, call Kent Ritter. If you don't have his number you can PM and I'll get it to you. He has cam cores and all the other things you might need.
People talk like these blocks are hard to work with. They aren't any harder to deal with than anything else.
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Grumpy Old Man
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Be ready to shell out 1200-1500 for the billet cam core it will likely require AFTER you figure out the oiling. 48° will be expensive. Some were 50mm some were 60mm roller bearing I believe, and there were some with the 48° cam and babbit bearings. You have got to know what your looking at to avoid ending up with a expensive paperweight
ValiantS
Well-Known Member
You'd just use an external belt-driven oil pump. One nice feature is easy priming. The new pan would have some means of 'bulkhead' coupling for an external pick-up, us big block guys use an external oil pump and pick-up system all the time. Lots of stuff available for this.
I have the casting number of the block but am not sure on the deck height or the cam bearings yet. Its patially assembled and I need to see what the part numbe of the block is. I have read that it is suppose to be stamped near were the starter attaches.
You say:
The block does not have the oil filter part cast into the block.
It should have the embossed area where the filter WOULD go, right? Any of the dry-sump R3s I've had do.
There isnt much to it. This summer I sold my R3W8 engine that was set up this way.
You need a rear main cap that will accept an oil pump. Drill the "blank" pad where your oil filter would normally screw on, tap it, and plumb to a remote oil filter.
From there, plumb from the oil filter to the large threaded inlet at the top of the front china wall. This gives you #1 main priority. Get a melonite-gear and intermediate shaft from Hughes.
The block does not have the oil filter part cast into the block.
It should have the embossed area where the filter WOULD go, right? Any of the dry-sump R3s I've had do.
There isnt much to it. This summer I sold my R3W8 engine that was set up this way.
You need a rear main cap that will accept an oil pump. Drill the "blank" pad where your oil filter would normally screw on, tap it, and plumb to a remote oil filter.
From there, plumb from the oil filter to the large threaded inlet at the top of the front china wall. This gives you #1 main priority. Get a melonite-gear and intermediate shaft from Hughes.
Unfortunately the casting number won’t tell the story….. our 9.0 deck dry sump block had the same cast number as our 9.2 block wet sump one and to my knowledge they didn’t put the actual part number on them.
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Grumpy Old Man
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Often times there is a 3 digit number hand stamped near the "R3" casting on the front near the dipstick hole. That's the last 3 numbers of the actual part number
There’s a W7 topend for sale on here that would make a nice match for that block. There are still a surplus of used dry dump oil systems on marketplace for these engines, though. Even with the additional hardware and maintenance, I see more benefits of going with a dry sump with an R blocks. Maybe even use one of the rectangular tanks and mount it where the battery used to live under hood.
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