Cooling ideas: 440 in a dart

[dukeboy440]

Long story short, I'm putting a 440 in my Dart. Hasnt fully happened yet but I want to plan out cooling.

440 bored over .030, 10.2:1 compression with aluminum heads, intake, water pump housing and water pump. It will have mondern resto-air AC too. TTI headers, non coated. Backed with a T56 Mag. Fiberglass Hemi Scoop hood.

I know I can shove a big aluminum, 22 inch dual or triple cool radiator in one. But what are some other ways to keep this sucker cool in extreme heat and traffic conditions that I expect to experience when making the Route 66 run in June.

Initial thoughts are to add an oil cooler as well. I'm also not opposed to notching the frame rails and modifying the core support to get as much radiator and air into the thing as possible. Obviously a good overflow set up as well. I have dual electric pusher fans planned as well. Could one run with a mechanical fan as well? Maybe add from louvers in the rear of the hood to extract the heat and get air out from under the hood?


Thoughts?

 

[66Valiant528]

Definitely open up the core support area and trim the sheet metal back to the frame rails for the biggest radiator possible. Pusher fans dont really do a lot. Most puller fans have a shroud, pushers tend not to. You can certainly leave 1 in front if you ever need it. There really isn't a lot of room between the latch support and the radiator and if you are adding a condenser there will be even less. But make sure you run a shroud with good mechanical fan blades set up properly for max efficiency. Run a Robert Shaw Mr Gasket high flow stat and you should be good for Ry 66. The louvers are a great idea as your headers will throw heat too. The fact you are running a stick is a huge benefit in keeping things cool. You will probably be good with just a good fan/shroud/radiator set up.

 

[dukeboy440]

Definitely open up the core support area and trim the sheet metal back to the frame rails for the biggest radiator possible. Pusher fans dont really do a lot. Most puller fans have a shroud, pushers tend not to. You can certainly leave 1 in front if you ever need it. There really isn't a lot of room between the latch support and the radiator and if you are adding a condenser there will be even less. But make sure you run a shroud with good mechanical fan blades set up properly for max efficiency. Run a Robert Shaw Mr Gasket high flow stat and you should be good for Ry 66. The louvers are a great idea as your headers will throw heat too. The fact you are running a stick is a huge benefit in keeping things cool. You will probably be good with just a good fan/shroud/radiator set up.

Thanks!!. I may modify the latch support or go without. Its a lift off hood with 6 safety pins, so I wont be running the latch. and on the 74, its a bolt on deal. I think the beak of the 74 might also allow a bit more room too. Not sure. I'll mock something up this week end.

 

[mopower440]

I had heat issues when i had the stock small block radiator in my 440 dart. I upgraded to a cold case radiator..still the same dimensions as the stock small block radiator but it has the big 1 1/2 inch primary cooling tubes, then the secondary smaller tube. NO more issues! It runs right around 170-180 all the time and thats even when im driving it hard! VERY happy with this radiator. I got rid of the flex fan and am using a stock 5 (or7?) blade non clutch fan and stock a/c water pump with 440 source aluminum housing. Happy that i can drive this thing all day now if i want without the cooling issues.

 

[Frank Mopar]

Looking myself so would this 1968 work in my1971. Lower outlet on left side.

 

[Murray]

Don't later Darts have 26" radiators? Possible rad support change to look more stock?

 

[mbaird]

Don't later Darts have 26" radiators? Possible rad support change to look more stock?

If it’s an original/6 I believe the openings were smaller .

I run a 2@ 1” core radiator with shroud and stock 7 blade fan/clutch in my Swinger and have no issues with cooling the 408 W2 solid roller cam engine even when it’s over 100 here .

Why run uncoated headers ? Is that what you currently have?
The coating really helps keep underhood temps down .

 

[4mulas]

Runs stock 7 blade fan, a descent radiator, 22" is fine if three row, AND A FAN SHROUD. A good factory one. I can’t count t all the threads I’ve seen where people complain of over heating and they don’t have a fan shroud.

I prefer copper rads.

 

[matthon]

I'm also not opposed to notching the frame rails and modifying the core support to get as much radiator and air into the thing as possible.

I want to put a/c in my car, gathering parts, not sure when I'll get it done.

I don't have any cooling issues, but when I get to it, I've decided to stop screwing around.

Going to order up a 2020 or so Challenger radiator, fan assembly, and condenser from RockAuto.
$300 total for a proven setup with everything.

I'll have to extend the radiator support on either side, maybe relocate the horns, done.

 

[33IMP]

I put the biggest, widest radiator I can get between the frame rails in my cars. Along with a shroud if possible. (My Opel has the radiator mounted at such a slant that two electric fans are required)
My original slant six 62 now has a high efficiency 28" core from a big bl9ck Cordoba, and the core support opened to fit.
My big block Opel has a 22x31 dually pickup radiator in it.
Run a serious fan, driven by the engine, use a shroud.

 

[Frank Mopar]

I want to put a/c in my car, gathering parts, not sure when I'll get it done.

I don't have any cooling issues, but when I get to it, I've decided to stop screwing around.

Going to order up a 2020 or so Challenger radiator, fan assembly, and condenser from RockAuto.
$300 total for a proven setup with everything.

I'll have to extend the radiator support on either side, maybe relocate the horns, done.

I thought that sounds great but looking at the rad the top fill is very low. How would you fill that?

 

[mygasser]

i had a 'glass lift off hood on the 66 big block fairlane i had a while back. it ran hotter than i liked until i adjusted the rear hood pins up giving about an inch and a half gap across the cowl. it was a double edged sword of plus'.... it ran cooler and on cold mornings the heat demisted the windshield nice and quick, lol.
neil.

 

[prodart440]

I have a 383 in my dart. Cold case 2 row radiator, flex fan, and a shroud. On a hot summer night in Phoenix, sitting at a light, it might get to 195*. Driving it runs at 180* (thermostat temp) all day long.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I don't like the double and triple pass crap. I'd just get a GOOD QUALITY two row aluminum radiator with the biggest tubes possible. 1"- 1.5" tubes would cool a sherman tank.

 

[mopower440]

I don't like the double and triple pass crap. I'd just get a GOOD QUALITY two row aluminum radiator with the biggest tubes possible. 1"- 1.5" tubes would cool a sherman tank.

I agree. the cold case i got has the big tubes, 2 rows..cool all day long!

 

[matthon]

How would you fill that?

Fill from the reservoir, it helps to leave the top hose off at first.
Have to buy a reservoir as well, probably a few other minor parts.

I looked into it a while ago, looked at a friend's Challenger, couldn't believe how inexpensive the parts were, readily available, and they would fit.

I have efi and it can easily control the fan, sure it could he adapted to anything.

 

[Frank Mopar]

Fill from the reservoir, it helps to leave the top hose off at first.
Have to buy a reservoir as well, probably a few other minor parts.

I looked into it a while ago, looked at a friend's Challenger, couldn't believe how inexpensive the parts were, readily available, and they would fit.

I have efi and it can easily control the fan, sure it could he adapted to anything.

Found something like this. That should work.

 

[junior636]

I forget what size my radiator is but on my 512 I modified the core support and I am using hellcat brushless fans, car hasn’t got over 180 degrees.

 

[Bewy]

Yep, read here why you don't want double/triple pass rad. Other tips also: www.stewartcomponents.com


I ran a 440 in the Aussie equivalent of a 67 Dart with the factory rad & it ran fine, no o'heating. I did use a smaller pump pulley, plus I had front & rear 'donate' plates pump welded to the impeller [ which was pressed steel ]. The donuts ensured that all the water captured got pumped into the engine, not re-circulated inside the pump housing. I used a large 18" clutch fan.

Today, I would use the largest alum rad that will fit without cutting up the car. You shouldn't need an oil cooler. It adds complexity, more places that can leak & more restrictive fittings.

Ign timing at idle/cruise is a big player in coolant temps; run as much as possible, depending on the cam.