correct exhaust manifolds

-
junkyard jac

junkyard jac

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2014
Messages
126
Reaction score
64
Location
thunder bay on
getting rid of fender well headers on 68 440 dart. can anyone tell me the correct casting numbers for this application. the one I have are 2843992 and 2806900 but don't think they are the right ones. if you have the ones I need and want the ones I have maybe we could swap or something.
 

Attachments

  • DSC03255.jpg
    43.2 KB · Views: 460
that was a very helpful list CudAj380. after a lot of research I was told the correct left manifold for big block 68 dart was 2946729. it does not appear on the list. oh well back to the drawing board.
 
hope these hints help. 1. use anti-seize compound on ALL threads. 2. tighten manifold bolts to 70-80% of full torque, at first. after 4-6 full heat cycles take to full torque. 3 be sure manifold flange bolt holes have the full size dia bolts. an under size bolt will get loose. my slant 6 was to have 11/16 bolt but a 3/8 would get loose.
 
Jac, those are the correct mannys and will fit nicely with Accurate Exhaust's 2.5" pipe kit ($399). I just did the same thing with my 383. A slight trim might be needed at the steering column in the back collar with the 440-maybe. But the pipes fit great.
 
bbrroowwnn said:
yeah, if you can find them they are about 2000 each
Click to expand...

No there not "selling" for that much. Their are people out there asking that much. I don't know why someone don't reproduce them buy now?
 
those are being re-popped and they are just B-body manifolds.

The passenger side one is correct for A and B but the driver side is a B-body unit.

If they are selling for 2k then I have a few pairs for sale. Last I checked B-body units like in the OP are going for 300. - 450.

The B-body manifold can be used in an A-body but the rear nut sleeves might have to be trimmed down a bit to clear the steering shaft on a RB and clearing the starter is going to be a little tricky ....if its a 4 speed then getting around the Z-bar is going to be really tricky.

A genuine A-body driver side manifold will resemble a C-body manifold and the dump Is not all the way to the back but has a longer dump tube.
 
RaniDart70 said:
those are being re-popped and they are just B-body manifolds.

The passenger side one is correct for A and B but the driver side is a B-body unit.

If they are selling for 2k then I have a few pairs for sale. Last I checked B-body units like in the OP are going for 300. - 450.

The B-body manifold can be used in an A-body but the rear nut sleeves might have to be trimmed down a bit to clear the steering shaft on a RB and clearing the starter is going to be a little tricky ....if its a 4 speed then getting around the Z-bar is going to be really tricky.

A genuine A-body driver side manifold will resemble a C-body manifold and the dump Is not all the way to the back but has a longer dump tube.
Click to expand...


He said he is looking for DART manifolds..Last time I checked a dart was an A_body.....Nobody said b-body manifolds were selling for 2K.......NOT B- BODY manifolds! So Yes, "M" code 440 A-body manifolds are that much
 
bbrroowwnn said:
He said he is looking for DART manifolds..Last time I checked a dart was an A_body.....Nobody said b-body manifolds were selling for 2K.......NOT B- BODY manifolds! So Yes, "M" code 440 A-body manifolds are that much
Click to expand...

I stand corrected!:eek:ops:
 
B-body B/RB hp manifold will fit on right side, but without milling it will also hit the right inner fender skirt if using factory bb a-body K-frame. I do not know if spool mount k-frame sits different?


RaniDart70 said:
those are being re-popped and they are just B-body manifolds.

The passenger side one is correct for A and B but the driver side is a B-body unit.

If they are selling for 2k then I have a few pairs for sale. Last I checked B-body units like in the OP are going for 300. - 450.

The B-body manifold can be used in an A-body but the rear nut sleeves might have to be trimmed down a bit to clear the steering shaft on a RB and clearing the starter is going to be a little tricky ....if its a 4 speed then getting around the Z-bar is going to be really tricky.

A genuine A-body driver side manifold will resemble a C-body manifold and the dump Is not all the way to the back but has a longer dump tube.
Click to expand...
 
ir3333 said:
aren't those manifolds priced out to 4 figures now
Click to expand...

bbrroowwnn said:
yeah, if you can find them they are about 2000 each
Click to expand...

well it wasn't specified with THEM and THEY and the topic is the OP !!!!

"THEM" could have meant the OP (logical assumption) because that is what we are looking at and seeing here....I never saw a pic of any A-body manifolds in this thread till I put a link to some
 
Rocky_JS said:
B-body B/RB hp manifold will fit on right side, but without milling it will also hit the right inner fender skirt if using factory bb a-body K-frame. I do not know if spool mount k-frame sits different?
Click to expand...

That's interesting ....I wonder if a factory Big block K frame moves the engine over to the passenger side a bit to clear the drivers mount. ??

on a home fabbed K frame (former slant six K ) and modified Spool mount K the passenger side sits with about 1/4 to 1/2 inch clearance with an RB . of course every car is different with the tolerance.
 
the first two picture are factory a-body big block 2863900. It has a longer down leg to the b-body b/rb hp manifold also a quick tell tale is the casting number is on the front leg not in the middle. On the car is the b-body manifold and when I get the correct engine back in the car the correct manifold will follow. lol I'm just having to much fun driving it right now! These are 67's the left side 2899002 is different for the 68-9 they flow a little better. I think all right side manifolds are the same all years all big blocks including the 440 M-codes.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4412 (1280x853).jpg
    21.7 KB · Views: 274
  • IMG_4411 (1280x853).jpg
    28.3 KB · Views: 277
  • IMG_4410 (1280x853).jpg
    44.2 KB · Views: 276
  • IMG_4409 (1280x853).jpg
    22.8 KB · Views: 256
  • IMG_4408 (1280x853).jpg
    49 KB · Views: 275
  • IMG_4407 (1280x853).jpg
    40 KB · Views: 266
  • IMG_4406 (1280x853).jpg
    33.9 KB · Views: 265
  • IMG_4405 (1280x853).jpg
    32.6 KB · Views: 275
I am starting to think the clearance to the passenger side inner fender is tighter on a 383 because its lower.

Here is the clearance on a 440 on a modified spool mount K with a stock B-body HP manifold ......if it were lower like a 383 I bet it would have been a real problem but being higher on a 440 allowed me to dodge that problem.
 

Attachments

  • CIMG8476.jpg
    49 KB · Views: 282
  • CIMG8487.jpg
    36.2 KB · Views: 249
I'd like to get some to fit a 76 A body. I believe the engine compartment is bigger. I remember in 1982,I put a 440 in a 68 cuda,made my own mounts from my 318 K member,and used chrysler manifolds,passenger side on both sides. Just dropped the drivers side pipe down the front and worked great. I was too cheap to buy the DC K member or the manifolds then too. It wasn't necessary. Don't spend, cut, weld,grind, fabricate. Only thing dumber than asking 2k for manifolds ,is the fool that pays it.....IMO.:violent1:
 
cuda620 said:
Only thing dumber than asking 2k for manifolds ,is the fool that pays it.....IMO.:violent1:
Click to expand...

as the old saying goes .......there are cheaper ways to make your car slower LOL

In reality I have only had or heard of small block A-bodies going faster. Big blocks are sexy and have the wow effect when you open the hood but physics dictates that small blocks have the advantage with weight and balance, and real world application of power to the ground, unless you have an extremely modified A-body car
 
there's no replacement for displacement!!

It is the 440 a-body left side going for that kind of money. I've picked up a few sets of 383's in the 5-600+ range for factory cars. If it wasn't a resto I would for sure go with headers or modified b-body hp manifolds and leave the factory stuff for the "real cars" and not the clones.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top