Cost to prostreet....approx?

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carcrazyguy

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Has anyone here ever had a car cut and fitted with aluminum? I might have access to a car that is pretty straight, but it is possible the floor pans are rusty. I was thinking it may be a good canidate for cutting the floors from the firewall back and having the car "pro-streeted"!!

I guess the race shop would build a box type frame and lay sheet metal floors and wheel tubs. Then get a narrowed rear end. Trust me this is not something that would happen overnight. :scratch: I just thought if I get the car and got it home and the floors are the worst part. I could strip the car and send it to a race shop and have the floors taken care of before it got worse. Then over time gather the other parts.
 
Anyone? :scratch:



Maybe someone can help with a website maybe? A shop that does this kind of work maybe?
 
I do all my own work, so I have no idea what the labor cost would be to "pro street" the interior, but I will tell you that it's a lot of labor. When I did mine, I used steel instead of aluminum. Why, you ask? For one reason, I never learned to weld aluminum. #2) Aluminum dents easily.
#3) I feel that the steel floors and tubs offer better strength in tying all the pieces together. My 2 cents.
Dan
 
to do it yourself? prob looking at 2000-2500 in parts. i think thats what i came up with for mine with "nice" parts. you can go all out and spend more, or you could cheap out and spend less. it depends on what your after. they used to charge about 5k to do a whole job, but i think that has risen to 8 or 10k now if i recall. labor is where its all at for sure. i get in the neighborhood of $600 to do a moved spring, minitub job-- parts, paint and body work on tubs not included--( im not really a body guy ).

--chad
 
I want to replace the factory whell housings all together. I also need a rear fire wall made up and a cover made for the fuel cell sump.

The guy listed there is a relative of BossVegas and owns a nice 9 second Duster.
 
AdamR said:
I want to replace the factory whell housings all together. I also need a rear fire wall made up and a cover made for the fuel cell sump.

The guy listed there is a relative of BossVegas and owns a nice 9 second Duster.
Click to expand...

Why do you want to replace the factory wheel housings?
Were'nt you making this into a street car? :scratch:
 
I figure Im 3/4s of the way threw cutting it up may aswell keep going. If I stretch the factory tubs it limits the tire hieght you can run without having to jack the car way up in the air. This way I can lower the rear over the tires a bit.
 
i 100% agree on using aftermarket tubs. unless you want that real sleeper look of widened tubs, i think the sheetmetal tubs would be a better choice IMO. i wish i did that when i mini-tubed mine. i have had no issues however with the stock modified tubs and 30" wheels though, its just a personal opinion and i have the same reasons as adam for wanting them. i will have them once i finish fully tubbing my car though.

--chad
 
The other thing is with the Fastback your going to see the tubs were the back seat use to be. You cant have them bolth.

the sheet metal ones will look alot better then the stretched factory tubs.
_________________
Adam
 
sickt7cuda said:
I do all my own work, so I have no idea what the labor cost would be to "pro street" the interior, but I will tell you that it's a lot of labor. When I did mine, I used steel instead of aluminum. Why, you ask? For one reason, I never learned to weld aluminum. #2) Aluminum dents easily.
#3) I feel that the steel floors and tubs offer better strength in tying all the pieces together. My 2 cents.
Dan
Click to expand...


Are you wanting to do another :D When can I drop it off!! :lol:


Seriously. I will get to really get a look at the car and its condition in a few weeks. But I was thinking about just gathering parts here and there over the next few years and when my wife gets out of medical school and we can afford to "throw away" some money I would have the car finished. :scratch: But I was thinking about trying to get the floors taken care of A.S.A.P. if they turn out to be bad.
 
If you're going to go that far, you should back half it with a four-link setup. And then .......
 
GotDart said:
If you're going to go that far, you should back half it with a four-link setup. And then .......
Click to expand...

I wish I went ladder bars/coil overs and notched the frame rails. It would'nt have cost much more then the relocated super stock springs and would'nt have been to much more work.
 
It sure would

nhra_2003_ind_aw_0110.sized.jpg
 
I too, at times, wish I had gone with the coilovers. I have ladder bars, 40" steel tubs, relocated SS leafs, and housing floaters. It was a lot of work and expense compared to just doing the backhalf with coilovers.

One thing that I can attest to; this set-up flat out works. Maybe that extra weight in the *** end is a blessing in disguise.
 
GotDart said:
If you're going to go that far, you should back half it with a four-link setup. And then .......
Click to expand...

Yep.... this is how it goes horribly bad. The " So long as...." syndrom. So long as I'm checking the tire pressure, I may as well mount a set of M&H's.... So long as I'm replacing the header gaskets I might as well install TTI's.... As long as I'm changing the main jets I'll install a Demon.... :laughing:

BTW: I'm just as bad..... :confused:
 
Mine was a 5 year project... The "while I'm right here" got me, too. I used steel and did it all myself. The finished project draws a crowd anywhere it goes but big tires do that and that was pretty much the plan. The car is a 68 Barracuda fastback. It has a 4-link, coil-overs, tubs, 19.5 Mickeys, etc. Typical back half car - not cheap, even if you do it yourself. The 4-link was cheap - around $150 - doesent'come w/hiem ends - around another $150. Coil-overs w/springs - $400. Dana 60 housing to build - $75. Getting it narrowed - $75 - axles (moser) $600 - included 5/8 studs and bearings. Spool - w/bearings - $275, 5.38 richmond ring and pinion $100, bearings for carrier - $150, wheel tubs $80 - some assembly required. Wheels and tires - got to roll on something... $750, fuel cell - $175, plus there's all the metal required to build the frame rails and floor, around $150. Some of it the stuff was new, some was swap meet stuff, but it all costs money and that's the easy part... Now you've got to put it all together - adult supervision required. I used steel instead of aluminum because I've seen rocks from the road punch holes through aluminum tubs - I don't want any. hope all this helps... :salut:
 
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