Couple questions on 318 to 360 swap

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scott2683

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Hey guys and gals,

I was going to freshen up an old set of 318 heads and have 1.88/1.60 valves put in, and put in a new cam in my 318, but I found a guy that needs money and has a fresh 360 that he's willing to sell pretty cheap. From the research I've found it shouldn't be too hard to swap from a 318 to a 360.

The biggest difference is going to be internally vs.externally balanced?

My main question is, Can I just use the B&M 360 flex plate with my 318 torque converter?

My car has the spool engine mounts, will a 360 bolt right up?

I've done a lot of research and I think I'm more confused now than before. From what I can tell the swap is pretty straight forward. Here's some info that may assist everyone in helping out:

74 duster
original 318 car
904 transmission
360 is out of a dart (not sure on year)

Thanks in advance,

Scott
 
Hey guys and gals,

I was going to freshen up an old set of 318 heads and have 1.88/1.60 valves put in, and put in a new cam in my 318, but I found a guy that needs money and has a fresh 360 that he's willing to sell pretty cheap. From the research I've found it shouldn't be too hard to swap from a 318 to a 360.

The biggest difference is going to be internally vs.externally balanced?

My main question is, Can I just use the B&M 360 flex plate with my 318 torque converter?

My car has the spool engine mounts, will a 360 bolt right up?

I've done a lot of research and I think I'm more confused now than before. From what I can tell the swap is pretty straight forward. Here's some info that may assist everyone in helping out:

74 duster
original 318 car
904 transmission
360 is out of a dart (not sure on year)

Thanks in advance,

Scott


You will need a drivers side engine mount as the 340/360 is different. If the 360 was balanced with the B&M flex plate you SHOULD be good to go. BUT...I have personally had to rebalance many deals just like this.

The moral of the story is this: There is no cheap way to do this stuff. If you start cutting corners you will be penny wise and pound foolish. Or, to say it another way...don't step over donuts to pick up dog turds.
 
Thanks for the advice! I can't decide the best route, I'm not looking for a race car, just a fun driver!!
 
Thanks for the advice! I can't decide the best route, I'm not looking for a race car, just a fun driver!!


I get what you are shooting for.

But if you buy an engine and it shakes like a dog poopin' peach seeds and you have to pulll the engine and disassemble to rebalance it takes the "fun driver" right out of it.
 
I completely understand, that's why I'm here asking advise and best practices.

I've spent hours reading up on it, but I thought I would seek some real world knowledge from you guys.
 
It's a pretty straight forward swap. Make sure you have a car oil pan, 318 pan won't work, if it is externaly balanced then B&M flex plate and you can run any neutral balance converter you want. That's takin into account it's a good motor to start with, that can be a crap shoot if you don't know the person.
 
Thanks for the response, I don't know the person, but I have heard the engine run, but not for very long. I do know it was built professionally by a local shop, he has all receipts for the engine.

It's a hard decision deciding which route is best!
 
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