crank drilled

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twayne24365

twayne24365

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would y'all be able to tell me if my crank is drilled for the STD pilot bushings or will I need the bearing?
IMG_20170324_170641998.jpg
 
What I found on a 440 auto crank. The green area is where the bushing is set. The shelf depth is about 1.675" from the end of the crank.
The .890" diameter would leave a <.070" bushing wall thickness for the .750" diameter input shaft after ream. The 2.225" depth here is more than adequate.
CrankFlng440a.jpg
 
Just go with the roller bearing, it is a better piece anyway and not expensive. It looks like you have plenty of depth there for the nose of the input shaft.

BTW, the rust on the flywheel mount flange looks nasty. You will want to clean it up to be sure that the flywheel seats and is true.
 
You may want to indicate the bell in so you don't end up stressing the bearing and making your input look like................

Inputshaftwear.jpg
 
I'm definitely going to indicate the QuickTime bell...
going to my buddies to finish milling out my shifter bracket, and chuck up the rear oil galley plugs in the lathe and mill them down a little because the block plate hits them
 
twayne24365 said:
I'm definitely going to indicate the QuickTime bell...
going to my buddies to finish milling out my shifter bracket, and chuck up the rear oil galley plugs in the lathe and mill them down a little because the block plate hits them
Click to expand...

Make sure the transmission mounting surface is square to the block too.

Nice work on putting your measurements on the photo too. How did you do that?
 
well I cleaned up the crank flange, turned out nice. and took some measurements. the depth from back of crank flange is 2.463", and I couldn't get the best measurement on the width where the bushing would sit, but the best i could come up with is .895.
the bushing came in my McLeod clutch kit is .9385...
 
twayne24365 said:
but the best i could come up with is .895.
Click to expand...
Lol, Not a lot of folks have gauge pins handy. You might try something close and a feeler gauge to get a better read on the dimension.
If you decide to press the bushing you'll need 0.0015" I believe (machinists chime in please) and a .753" ream to open it back up after pressing. If the fit isn't tight enough the bushing will ride out on the input shaft on you.
So you see. It's easier to use the bearing.
 
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