Cross over U joint #

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AJ71DUSTER

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Went to NAPA today to get my U joint to fit from large (drive shaft) to small (center section) I gave them all the numbers, this is the part # 457 of the U joint they sold me it's made by PRECISION the cross section widths were dead on (cap to cap ) but the OD of the caps are a 16th to small so the caps fall out of the drive shaft and fit lose into the yoke. Does anybody have the right part # i just don't want to play the guessing game with the auto parts store.

Thanks for any help
AJ71DUSTER
 
I dont have the napa number.

From Mancini online

SPICER - 5-1306X to 5-1309X
SMALL 7260 SERIES TO LARGE 7290 SERIES CONVERSION U-JOINT
$62.95
SPI5-527X
 
I,m not sure of the brand name,but got mine from Pat,s driveline(spares for race car)part #5-527qg 7260-7290 crossover u-joint.Hope this helps.
 
Many thanks to you both for the part #'s we are getting a good strech of weather here in MI,I would really like to get this put back on the road before it turns crappy.


Thanks again
 
redness do you have a part number? I was thinking the same about the price but can't say i know what to expect pay ether..
 
Thanks dusterglenn, this works out to where I can take the one I got and just exchange it. Thanks to all of the replies

AJ71DUSTER.
 
Just be carefull not to put too much power to the #347 7260-7290 combo joint. I have personally sheared all 4 brng caps off the hollow, greaseable type conversion joint.
The journals were still in them, and still in the driveshaft and rear yoke, the center-body just fell to the ground. If there is a spicer-solid version look into it. The other option would be to change the yoke on the rear itself. Pretty easy job. Or have the driveshaft fitted with the same size yoke as the rear. I just havnt had good luck with the hollow combo joints, hope you fare better.
Good luck!
 
No solid version for that, atleast not a china joint..

Take the shaft in and have the weld yoke changed to either 1330 series, or 1310 series depending on the end yoke, which in your case would be 1310 series weld yoke, or buy the bigger end yoke
 
66V100 said:
Just be carefull not to put too much power to the #347 7260-7290 combo joint. I have personally sheared all 4 brng caps off the hollow, greaseable type conversion joint.
The journals were still in them, and still in the driveshaft and rear yoke, the center-body just fell to the ground. If there is a spicer-solid version look into it. The other option would be to change the yoke on the rear itself. Pretty easy job. Or have the driveshaft fitted with the same size yoke as the rear. I just havnt had good luck with the hollow combo joints, hope you fare better.
Good luck!
Click to expand...
I,ve put 150 passes on the 7260-7290 u-joints behind my 410ci. running 10.80-11.00@122 mph with 1.50 60fts.Never had a problem with a u-joint.Something must,ve been wrong with your setup?
 
As I'm doing this, the thought did cross my mind about the strength of this type of U joint, I'm running a 408 WITH A 3000 STALL, I think its around 400+hp, but this late in the year I'm just looking for some way to drive the car for now,who knows by spring I might just rebuild the 489-391 gear and put it back in.
 
Precision joint number I used for the small joint is 315 or 315g for the greasable.
 
Just put part# 347 in fits perfect, now all I have to do is adusted the axle's and should be ready to go, Thanks for the help---- supershafts you have a very valid point I will weight options in the spring,thanks


AJ71DUSTER
 
Here are all of the numbers I've got written on my bench...

Combination 7260 to 7290 style--- Spicer 5-527X, Meritor CP527X, Precision 347, CR UJ347, TRW 20226, Napa NUJ240-0369, Neapco 2-0527

I get mine from a shop that supplies Spicer so I don't know about the quality of any of the other alternates.
 
Ya know grimreaper I do the samething with all of my part # that need to remeber I write then on the wall in a black marker next to were I park my car.
 
pettybludart said:
I,ve put 150 passes on the 7260-7290 u-joints behind my 410ci. running 10.80-11.00@122 mph with 1.50 60fts.Never had a problem with a u-joint.Something must,ve been wrong with your setup?
Click to expand...

Na, setup was good. Joint lasted 7 passes, then "sploded!" was in my valiant with 417" (416.63 actually) sb, edel heads, flat solid cam, perf rpm ag, low 1st 904, 3.73 gear, 27" drag radial. That combo ran 6.82@ 105
1.47 60' changed to billet yoke, solid 7290 on rear of drive shaft, and solid 7260 up front. 100s of hits later and 2k miles or so of street and still good to go. Could have been inferior or defective joint, but only takes one failure like that on the launch to get spooked.
 
66V100 said:
Na, setup was good. Joint lasted 7 passes, then "sploded!" was in my valiant with 417" (416.63 actually) sb, edel heads, flat solid cam, perf rpm ag, low 1st 904, 3.73 gear, 27" drag radial. That combo ran 6.82@ 105
1.47 60' changed to billet yoke, solid 7290 on rear of drive shaft, and solid 7260 up front. 100s of hits later and 2k miles or so of street and still good to go. Could have been inferior or defective joint, but only takes one failure like that on the launch to get spooked.
Click to expand...
I agree totally,last month I swapped to a narrowed Dana 60(4.56)I also have a new chrome-moly driveshaft 904 with the 1350,s front and back.When I removed my narrowed 8 3/4 the housing was bent on the drivers side.Guess I made the upgrade just on time before catastrophe.
 
Lol. Seen many an 8.75 flex, eat teeth, bend tubes etc. The braces do help, but only prolong the inevitable. I try to stick with the numeric lower gears, seem to live longer, and let torque do the work.
Hope ya put "good" caps on the dana with the "good" cover. Should be safe in the 1.4-1.5 60' for a while.
Nice dart btw, have had a few myself.
 
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