Cut & Buff

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Ron816

Ron816

Mopar forever
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Quincy, MA
Just finished painting, going to cut & buff, I was planning on sanding with 1500, 2000,3000
looking to see what polishing compound I should use after the 3000
IMG_1322.jpg
 
No advice, but I LOVE that color.
 
I used to use liquid ebony, and a wool bonnet on a buffer, followed by carnauba wax. Let it cure for a few weeks first. Back tape and paper the jambs, or you will have to clean out a lotta mess after wet sanding and buffing.
 
I used this 3M three stage system with 3Ms corresponding foam pads and had great results.

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Jim Ward said:
I used this 3M three stage system with 3Ms corresponding foam pads and had great results.

View attachment 1715789356
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Totally agree. The white polishing pad is used with the white capped bottle first, then black pad with black cap and blue/blue last. I have been using this system for several years, and it works great. It is WELL worth the extra steps.

Ron816 said:
Just finished painting, going to cut & buff, I was planning on sanding with 1500, 2000,3000
looking to see what polishing compound I should use after the 3000View attachment 1715788142
Click to expand...

I must first ask how much clear you put on. I always put on 3 or 4 coats, so I have plenty for sanding and polishing. Your paint job does look nice, but the clear does have some orange peel. But then again, so does mine. I always start with 1000 grit on one of those fairly soft sanding pads designed for wet sanding. Squeegee or dry off the areas you are sanding frequently to see when the orange peel is about gone and you have a flat, satin finish. Sanding beyond that point will just remove more clear. Then I do 1500, 2000 and 2500. Each successive grit is just used enough to eliminate the sanding scratches from the prior step. I have used 3000 grit before, but I have had excellent results stopping with 2500. So when you are done, you should have only 2500 or 3000 grit scratches. Those will polish out very easily. Buy a roll of 3/4 inch auto body masking tape and use it to protect edges and sharp body lines. Those places can be burned through very easily. At the end I take off the tape and either do those places by hand or VERY carefully with a polisher. Also, I would wait 30 days from painting before waxing. It is tempting, but don't do it.
 
This is single stage not base/clear. There are three coats of SS paint on that hood.
 
I personally have never liked 3m buffing and polishing products. I have recently switched to a different brand supplied by my jobber that I like a lot better. I start with 800 to get it flat, 2000 wet then 3000 then 5000 then buff. No need to use a wool pad. I've never understood why anyone likes those things. I still use the yellow then black waffle pad with the 3m lock collar and finish with a dual action orbital to remove swirls. Did it on my Demons terrible paint job and it looks great.

3M 05752 Perfect It Quick Connect Adaptor, 5/8 inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SYSQWK/?tag=fabo03-20

ZOTA Polisher,3 inch Orbital Polisher with 13.1' Cord, Mini Portable Rotary Polisher Kit with 3 Polishing Pads and Microfiber Towel. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T9RTRNY/?tag=fabo03-20

Products Archive - Farécla
 
Jim Ward said:
This is single stage not base/clear. There are three coats of SS paint on that hood.
Click to expand...
Metallic or non-metallic? If it is single stage metallic, you can't cut and buff it. SS Non-metallic paints can be cut and buffed to a mirror like gloss, but metallic paint does not like to be cut and buffed.
 
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