Cutting down an axle tube

[blue missile]

I thought I would post pics of the B-sectomy.
After measuring the axle tube and figuring out how much needed to be removed from the length of each side I blued and scribed two lines around the tube with the amount to be removed between them.
I also scribed indexing lines on each side, and cut out the sections to be removed with a 4" grinder.
I then used an old woodworking trick for clamping dowels.
Using two pieces of angle and four long hose clamps i reassembled the pieces. I lined up the index lines and left enough space between the angles to get really good surface welds on two sides of each half (tacks).
I then removed all the angles and ground a double fillet (vee groove) along the seam where the tacks were not.
I was careful to measure the depth with a set of mics and went 80% of the thickness of the tube wall.
After welding the groove, and making sure there was good penetration past the bottom of the groove, I ground off the tacks and repeated the process where the tacks were.
I setup the seam to be further reinforced by the 4 link bracket on each side, which will span the seam.
Andrew

 

[blue missile]

Adam could you please delete this I reposted in the right forum.
Andrew

 

[Small Block]

coming up in the oilfield, a good fitter would grind a good bevel in both ends of the weld, then do some tacks then do a good root pass and take it from there. You've got the right idea though.
Small Block

 

[blue missile]

Small block,
You are very right.
But I needed to make sure the indexing lines were right on the money and I could not think of any other way to make sure they would be, other than grinding the bevel afterward.
Andrew

 

[Purple Haze]

I do think you will have problems with distortion after welding if you don't use the proper jig.

 

[blue missile]

welding all done, axle straight as an arrow. Axle tube wall thickness is aprox .25" .This is structural, not sheet metal.
Andrew

 

[turbodart68]

I do think you will have problems with distortion after welding if you don't use the proper jig.

You are right, I do this for a living and have seen axles that are bananad from this kind of narrowing. I dont mean to knock the OPs project, however this is not the right way to do it. A proper fixture has 4 round machined pieces that slide onto a solid steel machined straight bar, the 2 round pieces bolt into the carrier and the other 2 slide onto the ends and square up the housing. Once all the inserts are tightened, then welding can begin. When you weld metal, no matter how thick it will distort when welded. Just ask any race car chassis builder. The jig helps minimize that. Dont feel bad since I have yet to see a straight housing yet, most are bent from curbs and such. Hell I bet Chrysler didn't even have them perfect.

 

[Purple Haze]

welding all done, axle straight as an arrow. Axle tube wall thickness is aprox .25" .This is structural, not sheet metal.
Andrew

Bet you have not put the center section in and tried to put an axle in yet. I know what I am talking about (see post), and do some research you will see for yourself.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=98227&highlight=narrowing+rear+end

 

[blue missile]

PH ,
Actually,
I have done both.
In my case, you have no idea what you are talking about.

Andrew

 

[340mopar]

You might have gotten it straight out of pure luck. But the odds are against you. There is no real way to take measurements to see if it is straight/inline. The only real way to know is with a rearend narrowing jig. Additional all brackets should be welded on a housing before the ends are attached. Welding on a housing will distort it.

I have a jig and actually check housings before I narrow them and on most housings I check are not vary straight. Doing it the way you did it won't correct a bent or tweeked housing.


Chuck

 

[Purple Haze]

Ain't no use in talking to this dude, he will find out the hard way. Guess he thinks that they are ripping you off when you have one done the right way, and that they make those jigs for no reason at all.

 

[340mopar]

He definetly gets an A+ for effort.

I also have a CA Chassisworks jig... love it.


Chuck

 

[fishy68]

BlueMissle I have to agree with the guys that it is most likely not truly straight, sorry to say. As stated very few used housings are straight to begin with so even if you get lucky enough to get it back as straight as it was it's still not real straight. Even if you can assemble it the bearings could be in a slight bind that'll wear them out pretty fast and possibly cause irregular tracking.