Cylinder Pressure

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Looks like with that cam, you're going to need to stay at 9:1. I got it at 9.2 and with that cam your dynamic compression is almost 8.2. That's skatin for a pump gas street motor with no quench, IMO.

Is that stock 360 pistons?

I had thought about using the Speed Pro's I got.
 
No I used 0 deck height and 6CCs. I assumed KB or something similar. Which Speed Pros? I'll figger them too.
 
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SLP-H116CP/


Bore (in): 4.000 in.
Bore (mm): 101.600mm
Piston Style: Flat top, with two valve reliefs
Piston Material: Hypereutectic aluminum
Compression Distance (in): 1.660 in.
Piston Head Volume (cc): +5.00cc
Wrist Pin Style: Press-fit or floating
Pin Diameter (in): 0.984 in.
Piston Ring Thickness: 5/64 in. x 5/64 in. x 3/16 in.
 
You can use those......but I would NOT deck the block anymore than to square it and even it up on both sides. They are always tall. At the stock deck height, the Speed Pros come to like 8.2 dynamic with that cam.......and I am using 72 CCs for the heads and that's probably a little big. You may have to end up using a thicker head gasket.....but they are certainly available. You just won't know exactly how to get there until you know where the deck ends up and the size of the chambers, but I have no doubt you can get to 9:1 even. With no quench, I wouldn't go any higher than that. Using a .060" head gasket and the piston .012" in the hole I get 9.0 static and 7.9 dynamic. That would be perfect. I get the .012"figure because that's where the Speed Pros sit at stock deck height. Hopefully it will clean up tall and that will give you a little wiggle room. Doable for sure.
 
and I am using 72 CCs for the heads and that's probably a little big.

Probably pretty close, I'm using a set of J heads, competition valve job and some mild porting.
 
Those Speed Pros may sit even a little further down than I think. If that's the case, then you'll have even more room to work with. You just won't know until you go to measure everything and mock up one cylinder......but you can get to 9:1 no doubt.
 
Well.....like I said, since the block decks are all over the place, no way to know until you get it squared up and measured. Till then you're just pissin in a fan.
 
Till then you're just pissin in a fan.

Lmao, well as long as I don't make contact like Inspector Clouseau did in the Pink Panther, I'll be good.

I guess I better get crackin on the rest, I have the short block on the stand. Got to finish pulling it down, get it tanked, get the rotating assembly balanced and start plugging it back together.
 
You NEED to have the block decked to AT LEAST even it up on both sides. Iwouldn;t go any farther though.....but to me, that's one of the most important things to have done to the block. Otherwise, every cylinder could have a different volume.
 
You NEED to have the block decked to AT LEAST even it up on both sides. I Wouldn't go any farther though.....but to me, that's one of the most important things to have done to the block. Otherwise, every cylinder could have a different volume.

Will do.
 
Just tell them to measure it and see where it is. And only remove just enough to square it up and even it up. That way, you can make up and needed compression with head gaskets and or slight head milling. But I don't think you'll need to mill the heads. Maybe just to make sure they are flat.
 
Funny that you mention that. I'm thinking about doing a thread on how to find that out. I have most of the pictures taken, just have a few more pictures to take and process, then I can start a "How to" thread. It's not that difficult if you do it the way that I do.

If you sit tight and give me some time, I will take the last few pictures and start the thread. Then I can come back to this one and give a link.


Ok, I have finally finished my thread on how to calculate/check your compression. It only took 10 hours....

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970452058&posted=1#post1970452058

Maybe that can help you...
 
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