dash wiring - 72 duster

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340kid

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me and my son are ready to install the bulkhead and dash wiring back in the Duster, i'm dealing with an original bulkhead and fuse block, however much of the original items are gone,

original guage cluster panel is out and replaced with all autometer guages (most mechanical)
we have deleted the heater core and fan/blower assembly
planning MAD amp bypass
running Champion alum radiator with dual electric fans and relays with temp switch along with manual switch on dash
planning headlight relay update
battery is in trunk along with ford type solenoid, battery disconnect and alternator feed back to battery - all independent of factory wiring
electric fuel pump (on relays & circuit breaker & independent dash toggle switch)

My question is, can i use the the original dash harness and leave the printed circuit board connector unplugged ?

i'm basically using the orig harness for ignition, front & rear lamp harnesses and thats it.

or should i scrap the original bulkhead and put in a nice new 12 or 15 circuit modern fuse box ??

thanks,
 
I'd go aftermarket, and not necessarily painless. AbodyJoe likes "American Autowire" as I recall.

Seriously consider getting an auxiliary fuse/ relay box out under the hood. Bussmann makes some that you can configure yourself. On my Dart I used a junker out of a Voyager. It required some rewireing but worked great. Gives me fuses for the main buss into the box, relays and fuses for headlights high / and low, ignition/ charging, pump, and extras for fan, security, etc


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is it ok to leave the PCB connector off, it's not feeding or in a loop with other circuits is it ?
 
i have relays mounted in "project boxes" on both sides of radiator, 2 for fans, 2 for headlights, i was planning on running a "hot +" distribution block to power up the relays etc maybe i should run a fuse box instead ????
 
i am thinking for the amp bypass, run a red 8 or 10 guage from starter relay back thru firewall to black amp guage connector to power up dash harness and totally cut out original red back feed thru bulkhead .
 
is it ok to leave the PCB connector off, it's not feeding or in a loop with other circuits is it ?

??? You managed to replace the gauges and keep the PC connector? I understood you put the new gauges IN the cluster? If so, you should be able to pick off cluster power (12V) for the new gauges. You'll still need the pins to power the lamps? Turn indicators? Might want to post a photo of what you've done to the cluster

i have relays mounted in "project boxes" on both sides of radiator, 2 for fans, 2 for headlights, i was planning on running a "hot +" distribution block to power up the relays etc maybe i should run a fuse box instead ????

Well you do need fuse protection. The whole idea of an underhood relay setup is to reduce high-current loads going in/ out of the interior. So it's advantageous to have a box big enough for relays and fuses.

IN my case, I used a "like new" Painless kit, missing parts, that someone had abandoned. I got it for about a hundred. So the headlight fuse has been REDUCED, because all the headlight fuse does, is to operate a relay out in the underhood box. The MAIN current is supplied directly from the starter relay stud, and goes through a fuse in that box.



i am thinking for the amp bypass, run a red 8 or 10 guage from starter relay back thru firewall to black amp guage connector to power up dash harness and totally cut out original red back feed thru bulkhead .

I used to LOVE ammeters. All the troubles guys have had with the bulkhead connector (including my Dart) changes my mind. I converted my Dart to a voltmeter, and the alternator is hooked to the battery with a piece of about no8 I've never looked back.
 
Sorry for confusion , original dash cluster is out, replaced with Fastlane unit with auto meter guages , fuel level , temp, oil press , vacuum , volt meter , fuel pressure , speedo & tach all the relays I have installed Are on fuses or circuit breakers so far !
 
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