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duster360

duster360

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it goes up and down 5 times, something is way wrong. I would like to see fuel/air ratios. ? dyno is messed up, fuel delivery, bad ignition, etc. what did you check?
 
I had a shop build and dyno it. The more I look at it the more I have suspicions the engine isn't right. I had an issue with oil getting on top of the intake valves so I took it to them for a complete rebuild and dyno, but I think it still has issues.
 
Did the Dyno monitor your AFR's during the pull? That would be the first bit of info that would help. What is the set up and what carb? What's Timing set at? Distributor weights and stuff good?
 
Not sure about the afr, I was too anxious to even look at that. 340, edelbrock head with no work done to them, air gap intake, .525 lift comp cam, 670 Holley carb, msd distributor.
 
I've been a Dyno Technician for 37 years. I'd look at fuel rate first. Just my 2 cents.
 
I have a mechanical Carter fuel pump that is self regulated to 6.5 psi. The gauge is on the carb fuel line. It was bouncing all over the place. I mean from one end of the scale to the other.
 
you got 5 lines which read between 0.0 and 0.000

my question is, why was there no input there?
someone didnt hook up all the sensors or something, why?
what kind of business are they running there?
(any who test dynos an engine with a mechanical pump these days?)


maybe ask Mike at MRL to look it over, he builds quite a few of these, including mine, and it came with a dyno sheet
 
diymirage said:
and you saw the gauge be all over the place as it was on the stand?

new pump, old eccentric?
i would start there
Click to expand...

Yes. He even said that he figures it was the pump doing it. Maybe I should buy a better pump and get an external regulator
 
duster360 said:
Yes. He even said that he figures it was the pump doing it. Maybe I should buy a better pump and get an external regulator
Click to expand...

they do make pumps that are internally regulated and flow enough for 400 HP, or, they used to (hard to find nowadays)

what pump do you have now?
and it is brand new?

like i said, check the eccentric to make sure the pump is operating as it should and find out if that pump will support 400 HP


if the eccentric is good, and the pump is working as it should, but simply not able to keep up with the engine, then your options are a higher output mechanical pump (with or without external regulator)
or going electric (and then we get to chat about return lines and what not
 
I can't help with the other aspects here, but from my experience, that fuel gauge won't last long cycling like that. The bourdon tube will work harden and rupture and your going to have fuel puking out of it. Been down that road.
 
This is the pump I have. It is new.




Home // Shop By Brand > Carter Fuel Systems > Carter Mechanical Fuel Pump



CLICK TO ENLARGE
Carter Mechanical Fuel Pump
Item #: CARM6902
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
Fits: Small Block

The product specialists at Mancini Racing worked directly with the Federal-Mogul/Carter Fuel Systems brand team in bringing back these highly sought after mechanical fuel pumps that Mopar enthusiasts have been requesting for some time.

Both the Carter M6902 (small-block) and M6903 (big-block/Hemi) have the following features and benefits:

• 5.5 to 6.5 PSI

• 120 GPH flow rate

• Tough lightweight aluminum silver cast finish body

• Large full-flow valves

• Anti-float springs for high RPM operation

• Heat treated lever

• ¼” NPT inlet and outlet

• Housing is positioned for the many popular Chrysler O.E. fuel line routing but can also be rotated to accommodate different inlet and outlet locations

• Perfect for stock or modified Mopar muscle cars requiring additional fuel delivery while maintaining a stock appearance under the hood

These Super Mechanical Fuel Pumps are available exclusively from Mancini Racing.
 
that pump should be able to pump more fuel into the carb then you need
i would check the eccentric, and the fuel lines for blockages
 
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