dirt track'in a A-body

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dirty white boy

dirty white boy

50 yr old Juvenal delinquent
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stoneville n.c.
new pure stock class at my local dirt track an got a car thats lil to ruff to save,..itll be the left over parts car from the street build im fixing to start,..any way,..looking for any info bout setting up torque rod suspension for dirt race'in,..1/2 mile high bank with sweeping corners,..any any info bout getting the most outta a 318 with a 1850 4 barrel 600cfm...thanks for any wisdom you fine folks can share!! DWB
 
heres the class rules,..its a all chevy show,..wanta teach them bout mopar-mobiling!!

2013 Renegade-V8 Division Rules

1. BODY - Any full/mid size American made car or truck. No jeeps, 4x4?s,will be allowed to run. WHEELBASE min. is 101'' with a 1'' tolerance. 6'' REAR SPOILERS ok 6''. (side spoilers ok.) Doors, fenders and quarter panels may be fabricated of steel or aluminum, but must be stock appearing. Must have steel OEM roof. Floor pans must be in stock location... Trunk pans may be cut out . Firewall must be stock and in the stock location,or steel in stock location....

2. CHASSIS - Uni-bodies may be tied together. Hulling is legal. Must have a full roll cage constructed of a min. 1 1/2'' tubing.

3. Front inner fender wells may be removed. Fender wells may be cut for tire clearance.

4. Fuel cell is mandatory. Safety belts, harness and fire extinguisher mandatory. Must be track approved.

5. FUEL - Racing fuel ok.

6. WEIGHT - 3300 lbs.

7. SUSPENSION - Must be stock and in the stock location. May run racing springs. No Chrysler rear leaf springs on GM chassis. Front springs may be changed and non-adjustable buckets ok. Spring shackles ok. Upper A-frame may be cut for caster. Non-adjustable tubular upper A-arms ok. FRONT Shocks must be in the stock location.REAR shocks may be relocated.
SHOCKS MUST BE STEEL BODY.....

8. TRANSMISSION - Factory OEM manual or automatic ok. NO Bert, Brinn, Jericho or direct drives. Automatics must have a working torque converter. FLYWHEEL must weigh 14 lbs min. CLUTCH-stock type pressure plate and clutch disc of 10 1/2'' min. Steel scatter shield mandatory with manual transmission, may be fabricated from 3/16''steel and track approved. factory slave hydraulic release cylinder ok. after martket hyd release bearing allowed

9. REAR END - Posi-track, limited slip, or locked rear ends ok. Mini-spool ok. 9" Ford in all cars ok for safety. Aftermarket axles ok
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10. BRAKES - 3 wheel working brakes mandatory. No brake adjusters.MAY USE RIGHT FRONT SHUT OFF..

11. TIRES - Any 8 inch max dot or racing tire UNTOUCHED,that punches a min of 60 anytime they are checked....NO soaking,grooving,siping,etc....

***Also imca modified and ndra modified tires also legal that punch atleast 60 or harder and must remain UNTOUCHED

12. WHEELS - Steel only, 8'' wide max. Bead lock, beadlock on Right side only. Large wheel studs recommended. NO WIDE FIVE HUBS/WHEELS

13. DRIVE SHAFT - Must be painted white with car # on it. Must have a safety loop 8?-12? to rear of transmission where drive shaft inserts into transmission.

14. ENGINE - Must be in front of stock (or steel) fire wall with fire wall (or steel) being in stock location and be stock for make and model of vehicle. RODS - OEM stock steel rods for engine used. Stronger rod bolts may be used. Polishing, stress relieving, balancing and floating pins are optional. MAX. OVERBORE IS .060?, 0? deck ok. CUBIC INCH - GM & FORD 365 cubic inch max. Chrysler 374 cubic inch max. If crossmember is notched to clear fuel pump you must add an extra 50lbs in front of motor.... OIL PAN must have inspection plug above baffles 2" prefered 1" min....

15. CAM & LIFTERS - .425 hydraulic max. with 0 lash. No rollers. Anti-pump up lifters ok. Must be stock lifters for engine.

16. HEADS - Stock OEM straight plug cast iron heads only No less than 70 CC.. No closed chamber (high performance heads) such as 461, 461x, 041, 186, or 492 castings. No vortex or angle plug heads. Screw in studs and guide plates ok. VALVE SPRINGS - Stock diameter single valve springs (1.250'') and stock rocker arms for the engine used. No hand blending. VALVES - Steel only. Max. size 1.94 intake, 1.5 exhaust.

17. INTAKE - Stock cast iron intake for engine used. May run aluminum performer #2101 (not the rpm version) with Holley 600 #1850 carb or Holley 500 # 4412 with 1'' max. spacer plate. No bowtie or Brezenski intakes. HEADERS - ok.

18. PISTONS - Stock type OEM or replacement type (no lightweights). Must have 4 valve reliefs or dish type only.

19. CRANKSHAFT - Stock OEM only. Stock stroke only. GM is 3.48'' only. Must have GM part #. May be balanced. No knife edging. CAST 48 lbs. min. STEEL 50 lbs. min.

20. IGNITION - Stock type only. HEI ok. Brass dist. gear ok. COIL - Any. NO MSD.

21. FUEL PUMP - ANY

22. CARBURETOR - Holley 600 #1850 (out of the box) may run performer aluminum intake #2101 with 1'' max. spacer plate. Holley 600 may remove choke and re-jet. Max. throttle bore is 1 9/16''. Max. venturi size: primary is 1.250'', secondary is 1 5/16''. Holley 500 #4412 may run 1? max. spacer plate. Max. throttle bore is 1.6875''. Max. venturi size is 1.375''. QUADRA-JETS OK, but must run stock OEM CAST IRON intake. NO BOW-TIE intakes. There will be a $300 buyout rule for any carburetor..
 
Since they allow chrysler up to 374 cubes, why not build a .040 over 360 with "x" heads on it and take advantage of the rule break.
 
How much vacuum does it have to pull ? find the shortest steering arm
that you can for fast steering
What ever you do build ,build it 2thousands loose and ran a 3 speed trany with with the smallest flywheel you can.. did mopar have an aluminum fly wheel ?! ?.
stager your tire size 2 ta 2 1/2'' right sides taller
Heck I have seen to much engine hp is a waist of time, build it to last and don't over carb it.. We have a few dirt track pro's here that will chime in here ........ Nothing like getting on a pile of dirt and racing, very addictive
and fun.......... can you run added weight ? alignment will change per track......... Enjoy.
 
I did not see anything about moving the motor back.. I would set it back against the firewall and try and get the motor weight behind the shock towers.
 
see rule number 14.....W-2 heads and intake aren't cheap....put a set of 302 heads on a low compression 360 and have them opened up to the 360 188. 160 valve size to keep it in the spirit of the rules for suspension keep her soft. chuck the sway bars to let the body have some movement...flip the front spring hangers to get some forward bite and to lower the rear end at the same time. keep everything legal and drive em clean will get you the best results
boosted said:
I did not see anything about moving the motor back.. I would set it back against the firewall and try and get the motor weight behind the shock towers.
Click to expand...
 
waggin said:
see rule number 14.....W-2 heads and intake aren't cheap....put a set of 302 heads on a low compression 360 and have them opened up to the 360 188. 160 valve size to keep it in the spirit of the rules for suspension keep her soft. chuck the sway bars to let the body have some movement...flip the front spring hangers to get some forward bite and to lower the rear end at the same time. keep everything legal and drive em clean will get you the best results
Click to expand...

And spoken like a true dirt track racer, Thank you for chiming in Wagg's
I know you have many laps in you and a few build for the dirt :cheers:
 
Why do they paint the driveshaft white?
 
jos51700 said:
Why do they paint the driveshaft white?
Click to expand...
So the track safety staff and drivers can see them if they throw one, and I.D there drive shaft (thus the # of the car on it)
 
Keep your motor and tranny as simple and bulletproof as possible, don't stretch it for the max HP. At this level, its going to be more about car setup and driver smoothness than how much HP your puttin down. I didn't see anything about wheel backspace. A little trick I use to use was run thru the scales at tech with 4" backspace wheels all around, then go back to the pits and punch the right sides out with a 1 or 2" backspace and suck the left sides in with a 6" wheel. My class didn't tech after the race so most of us were doing it that way. You will find it much more enjoyable to go to the track and work on your setup than fighting motor problems.
 
id like to build a 360 or a 340 with good heads but already got a 73 318 an a 85 318 an on a budget,..can swap in better motor later,...no vacuum rule in this class,...can move motor back to #1 plug in line with ball joint,...an no rule on wheel back spacing ether,...lotta good info in short time from you guys,..really great,...on dirt racing forum nobody has a clew bout mopar magic!! thanks a ton!!
 
whats the deffernce in a 318 k-frame an a slant6 k-frame?? an how much trouble to put the 318 where the 6 was???
 
dirty white boy said:
whats the deffernce in a 318 k-frame an a slant6 k-frame?? an how much trouble to put the 318 where the 6 was???
Click to expand...

the sixes engine perches are a different design and in a different spot on the K member, thats the only difference

i guessing this would be a solid mounted engine. you could just cut off the old perches and fab up your own.
 
I used to run a dirt modified that was actually quicker with the 318 than the 360.
The 360 was such a torque monster it was tough to hook up the spec tire with certain track conditions. We only ran 1/4 mile ovals, and the 318 revved a little quicker pulling it off the turns better. We had a race ready 360 for 3/8ths and 1/2 mile tracks but I sold the car before I ever got a chance to run it. I've got two sets of headers and a brand new 318/340 Canton dirt track pan you can have for small change on the dollar if you can use them. Let me know and good luck.
 
First how many a-body parts do you have to use up? That said with those rules I would build a 2wd dakota. start with a first gen frame. It dose notsay that u cant use a quick steer so get one. if you have to use the 318 get a 340 bbl intake (square bore) and port match the heads to it. or better yet ask them to let you run the performer intake like the chevys can. Thats 40# off the front very important for handleing. I would use the A-body leafs and just rerdo the rear hangers for the shorter spring. The truck lets u use ready avalible racing springs for the front. move the motor back as far as the rules alow even if you have to move or modify the firewall. the chevy guys will and if you want to keep up you will have to also. go over to moparchat.com and join the circle track forum lots of info there. I think you could use Dago Reds oil pan on the truck chassie but not on a stock chassie. If you want to keep that motor togather you must use a pan designed for racing a stock pan will not cut it. Good luck and have fun. I run a a-body in the IMCA hobby stock class. 4 feature wins last season in 13 races.
 
i got a 73 318 duster an a 75 slant6 a/c duster,..an i got a 85 318/904 out of a 85 deplomat,...gonna use all best parts to build a lil street car out of,..rest of parts figured id go dirt racing with! gonna be a real budget build if i do this too!
 
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