Disc Brake donor vs Disc Brake kit....

-
POPS6T6

POPS6T6

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2006
Messages
257
Reaction score
5
Location
Rocklin, California
For those that have followed my posts, this is a continuation of my many questions regarding rebuilding my 1966 Barracuda. For those that have not, here is where I am.

I recently purchased a 1976 Duster that I was going to use for parts (the 8.25 rear end, and the disc brake setup). I have the car, and I was going to pull those parts off and sell the car (was going to put my 7.25 rear and my front end on it so that it will roll) but now I am wondering if I should think about selling the entire car and taking the money and purchasing a "kit" for the disc brakes? Is there a kit out there that I can purchase that will allow me to upgrade to the larger bolt patterns, plus all the parts needed for disc brakes? Or should I use what I have on the donor car? I have read about the scarebird kit, but I don't think that would change my bolt pattern (I currently have the small bolt pattern) or is there something I can do to change that?

Any advice would be appreciated!!

John
 
I would personally keep on the path you're currently following with the used parts. Even if you buy something like the Scarebird front disk kit, you'll still end up with BBP on the front and SBP on the rear. If you use the 76 parts, including the 8.25", then you'll have the 5 x 4.5" bolt pattern all around.
 
I bought a front disc kit from wilwood for my 63 dart, the kit works with all of the stock components and also has 5x4 1/2 bolt pattern on the hub. I have been running it for a little over a year now with no issues. It is a little pricey though. Also running 15" wheels. If I did it again I would have upgraded the rotors and calipers but, that's even more $$$$
 
I would use the donor car parts for the sake of being able to get replacement parts from any parts house later. Being your car is a '66 and the suspension parts are going to be from a '76 it will be easy to remember down the road when you buy replacement parts.
 
As always, I appreciate all the input. I have been leaning towards taking the rear end out of this car (it seems A-body 8.25 rears are harder to find than you think!) and then selling the car as is, then perhaps purchasing the scarebird kit or something of that nature.

But (you knew this was coming right?) I also just want to get all my parts together and get this thing done now. How hard is it to pull everything off? And what all do I need? I am assuming I will take the front assemblies, the rear and the master cylnder....anything major that I am missing?

Thanks,

John
 
Well, someone offered me quite a bit for the "donor car" so now I am trying to figure out what is the best way to convert to Disc Brakes using a kit? I have read a bit on the scarebird kit, and it seems that if you don't mind crossbreeding manufacturers a bit (which I don't, yes I know, I am not a "purist"), then that kit seems economical, but I am curious as to what all I need to buy to make it work? Is there a comparable kit out there besides scarebird?

Thanks,

John
 
Just for a point of reference. I had a 73 Dart doner car for the disk brake swap. I used the control arms and spindles from the doner. I then used the calipers and master cylinder as core for rebuilt parts. I purchased new; rotors, brake hoses and wheel bearings/seals.

The cost of going this way is as follows;

Loaded Rebuilt calipers: $60 for both
Rebuilt master cylinder: $15
New rotors: $90 for both
New hoses: $30 for both
Wheel bearings & seals: $25 for both

Total: $220

Question is; Is the cost of the doner plus the cost of the new/rebuilt parts minus what you sell off the doner cheaper than what an after market kit costs minus what you can sell the doner for.
 
Is the buyer interested in the body or the whole package. Maybe sell the car without the parts you need and like you said with the 66 stuff on it. Its just a no brainer as far as I am concerned. You've got everything you need right there to do the whole conversion, including the brake lines etc - assuming the car is from CA all the hard parts will be nice. Not only this - but you would be upgrading the suspension in terms of the upper ball joints, the later A bodies used a larger ball joint that is much stronger than the early ones. I guess you need to compare the $ for the donor vs the aftermarket parts. As far as tearing it down ? 1 long day with an impact, if you dont have a compressor there are very good electric impacts as well to be had as well. Probably the worst parts to get out are the upper control arms, the pivots usually rust to the inner of the bushings, but some judicious use of force should get it done. As far as reassembly ? Maybe 1-2 days, it always takes longer.
 
Doing my dad's Chevelle this weekend. Will be finished tomorrow. 2 days work which included new bushings and ball joints, etc. We got the SSBC kit for his car and it's a breeze. Personally, I would use the donor stuff since you already have it.

I went with the SSBC kit because I wanted to keep my SBP wheels, I still have the option with my front rotors to move up to the BBP. In the rear I would have to get new axles and BBP drum backing plates. You are already set with 8 1/4" rear depending on what you plan on building.

The SSBC kit is going to run you about $900. Then add a new rear-end. Costs about $75-100 to completely rebuild the brake drums on the rear. So you are looking at $1,000+ if you go the kit route.

My 2c
 
i`m sitting here looking at an add in MOPAR MUSCLE MAG for a new conversion kit that uses your complete suspension and converts to disc brakes with bbp.no need to change everything out.fits your original spindals.the kit is $575.00.this is the way i`m going.check it out at www.ecihotrodbrakes.com.
 
I don't like the pieced together kits they have, or scarebirds, and ssbc. They are cheaper at first but there is a reason. GM calipers, rotors from whatever newer car "replacements will probably need special machine work to make them match" i.e. centering hole enlargement etc.. special brackets, only made by them, and not able to be purchased individually if one get's bent or somthing. There are some kits that you use the later stuff, but upgrading the calipers to wilwoods. It uses the larger 11" factory rotors. I'm running the factory stuff on my wagon with the small rotors and my car stops great. Even with manual brakes.
 
I used a disk kit from Master brakes for the 66 Barracuda.it came with power boster ,11"rotors, new upper a arms ,new ball joints, bearing,hard lines every thing that I needed .The only thing I bought was a new reserve valve to hold presser on the rear brakes. the kit cost around $1200. made a great inprovement nicoles Dad Don
also it has the big bolt patern
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top