Distilled or Regular Water

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marine supply sells the anodes by npt sizes. install in radiator drain plug and/or extra intake coolant port

This...

After getting my new motor and cooling system up and running with reverse osmosis water and quality green coolant, I was getting these odd whitish soft gooey deposits everywhere I could see inside the cap opening. It would happen in just a few days.

I ended up using the anode attached to the radiator cap. It stopped all the strange electrolysis stuff going on and It didn't even consume the anode. Once installed it began coating just the electrode with this weird white gooey stuff. I wiped it off a time or two, and now it stays clean inside my system. I haven't had the problem since.

I also use those PH test strips for coolant strips from time to time test the coolant and keep an eye on things.

And This...

The 'Maritime Hot Rod Folks' have to use whatever water is available for cooling...
 
Some marine engines use regular coolant and a liquid to liquid heat exchanger (usually a stainless one). Others run what ever water they're floating in directly thru the engine. You can guess which costs more.

The anodes are available from most marine suppliers. Online try Westmarine.com but there are others.
 
Distilled water is cheap and you can get it at the grocery store, no reason not to use it.

Don't buy the 50/50 pre mix, if you do, you are paying some company $5 - $6 for 1/2 gallon of water.
 
Phoenix water is really bad! The aluminum timing covers on 318's would corrode from the inside, and eventually eat a hole in the cover, allowing the coolant Intermix with the oil. It happened to my 69' 273. Even in 1974 I was lectured to always add Distilled water to the antifreeze. in Nebraska The water isn't so mineralized, so I don't really have a problem.
 
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