distributer cap mods?

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Sorry i have not posted an update for a few days, my gf's kid totally f'd up my lap top and i had to get it fixed. But anyways, i went to work in the shop saturday afternoon looking for the vaccum leak. I pulled the vaccum advance off and plugged all ports on the carburetor and dropped the initial timing down to 12 degrees and listened to it idling while fully warmed up, and it was still an erratic idle, missing every other second.
So i sprayed wd-40 along the intake manifold and sure enough, the idle kicked up a bit and then it went back to miss firing every other second. So i pulled the intake manifold off, cleaned EVERYTHING, cleaned the intake, cleaned the heads, I bought all brand new grade a bolts 5/16 and 2 1/2 inch long with new washers. I used edelbrock gasgacinch on both sides of the intake gaskets and on both heads and on both sides of the intake, then i used the right stuff gasket maker for the end seals and i put an extra dab in the corners, i set the intake back on the engine and tightend all the bolts up with a 3/8 drive ratchet and socket and i let it sit for about 16 to 18 hours. Then i went back in sunday afternoon around 2 or 3 and torqued all the bolts to 20 ft lbs of torque in the proper sequence, threw it all back together and fired it up, let it idle for about 20 minutes and checked my vaccum with the vaccum gauge and my vaccum was steady at around 16 hg of vaccum.
So i then set my timing up to 15 degrees inital and 33 degrees total and set my mixture screws to the best vaccum reading. Now the last thing to do was the vaccum advance. Now i previously had it set to add 10 degrees of timing at idle on manifold vaccum, So since i had my timing light out, i hooked the vaccum advance up to manifold vaccum and checked the timing at idle and i was at 25 degrees at idle, (15 initial 10 from vaccum advance) I went back nad listend to the exhaust with the vaccum advance on manifold vaccum and it was idling smooth as butter not missing a beat at all.
But since there is so much controversy over where to run the vaccum advance i am confused. It's obvious the vaccum leak is what was causing my problems, and not the vaccum advance being on mnaifold vaccum. But I want to learn how to properly tune a vaccum advance on ported vaccum and try the ported vaccum and see how the engine responds..
 
Nice job on the intake,hopefully we have that behind us. Your timing sounds good to.
Now you can move on.

On the ported side of the Ede,you will notice(with gauge attached) that you have zero,
"No Vacuum" at idle. When you open up the throttle,you will notice vacuum go up.
When you get to a certain RPM the vacuum will drop to zero. Low cruising,high vacuum,high speed,low vacuum. Now attach your vacuum advance. With your timing set where it is,grab your timing light,read what your timing is at 3000 rpm's. You should be somewhere around 40-50deg of timing. Somewhere around there.Your timing increased,because your vacuum increased. Hence the word,Vacuum Advance. When the engine continues to climb,eventually the vacuum drops to zero,and the vacuum advance drops out. At that point you will be back to your full advance.

You can adjust the amount of advance,in your advance pod,with an allen wrench.
First find the right size allen wrench. Carefully insert in,and screw it (clockwise)all the way in. Now reverse the process,and back it out 8 turns. That's where I start.

Take for a test drive. Does it ping ?
No: your done.
Yes: screw it in (clockwise) one turn.
Repeat this process until no ping.

Recap:
Vacuum advance plugged,set total timing.
Happy how it runs,plug in vacuum advance.
Adjust pod,done.

PS:Obviously the manifold port of the Eddy is plugged.
 
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