Doesn't want to go...

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I had a trans rebuilt and the builder left the thrust washer out lol I have a nice fresh, small block 727 with manual valve body and a turbo action 3500 converter with brand new b&m race floor shifter and cable plus a bag of small parts related to shifter, cable has aluminum conduit around it so it wont ever burn and also has a deep pan. I will guarantee this transmission for 1 year in any application under 550 hp. This trans was rebuilt by a mopar pro I went to hi school with and I bartered off a complete A body 4 speed and this trans for it. $750 this trans has 1500 miles on it and will snap your neck.
 
WHOA!!! Hold it right there. When you use the green bearings you DON'T need the spacer. Pull it out and put it up on the shelf. You only need it if you're using your old adjustable bearings with the adjuster on the pass side. ALSO. When i changed over the rear brakes from small to 11" X 2.5" i forgot to let out some slack in the E brake cable and it wouldn't go very easy so check you e brake adjustment. If you didn't hammer on it just put her back to gether and drive it. Do a visual of the axle ends and if they look good your ok. I did the same thing so i called eaton for a confirmation on this. Leave the spacer out. I used the same axles. 35 lb torq spec on 5 axle retainer nuts. I gave mine 40.
 

Small Block said:
WHOA!!! Hold it right there. When you use the green bearings you DON'T need the spacer. Pull it out and put it up on the shelf. You only need it if you're using your old adjustable bearings with the adjuster on the pass side. .
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Re-read post #21. He said he removed the block when he installed the axles.
 
mopar1962 said:
not enough meat to redrill 4 inch pattern to larger size. very dangerous
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He said he has Yukon axles. Not re-drilled stock axles.

As far as that goes my 68 Cuda has had stock re-drilled axles in it for over 20 yrs. now and never broke anything. Runs high 12's in the 1/4 too.
 
carry on soldier haha I can see that with c body resplined axles but go a lil faster and watch what happens
 
Swingerman, Youkon axles and 741 rear chunks don't mix very well. Early Youkon axles were shorter that stock axles and the 741 case has a 2 piece side gear. This is a bad combo. I stripped about the last 1/4 inch off one of my axles. Thankfully Randy's Ring and Pinion realized there was/is a problem with 741 third members and early Youkon axles. They replaced my axles for no charge. The new axles I needed to cut to length.
 
Fishy: The way i'm reading it, the spacer was in it UNTIL he removed the axles for inspection and now taking the 3rd member to the shop. The spacer was between the axles until he pulled axles hence not enguageing all the way. (the spacer). I maybe looking at it with the wrong eye. Don't redrill axles ever. I did once but never again. I know sometimes we try to do alot of stuff on a very tight budget and we don't do anything but spend more money in the end. Called shooting yourself in the foot. Some guys do stuff to their cars that they would hang a shop if they did it.
 
Rob64GT said:
Swingerman, Youkon axles and 741 rear chunks don't mix very well. Early Youkon axles were shorter that stock axles and the 741 case has a 2 piece side gear. This is a bad combo. I stripped about the last 1/4 inch off one of my axles. Thankfully Randy's Ring and Pinion realized there was/is a problem with 741 third members and early Youkon axles. They replaced my axles for no charge. The new axles I needed to cut to length.
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Rob,

The car has a 742 case but I think you're onto something with the 2 piece side gear, my diff has 2 sets of splines also. It appears that they are now misaligned due to the axle only engaging the first set of splines. I believe that this was what was causing the noise in the rear (only one set of splines in the 3rd memeber turning). I am dropping the chunk off Friday moring to have the shop see what damage if any was caused.

It seems that the length of the axle is root of the problem I have a friend that has a set of redrilled stockers that I can try, we'll see how that goes after I get the diff checked.
 
Small Block said:
Fishy: The way i'm reading it, the spacer was in it UNTIL he removed the axles for inspection and now taking the 3rd member to the shop. The spacer was between the axles until he pulled axles hence not enguageing all the way. (the spacer). I maybe looking at it with the wrong eye. Don't redrill axles ever. I did once but never again. I know sometimes we try to do alot of stuff on a very tight budget and we don't do anything but spend more money in the end. Called shooting yourself in the foot. Some guys do stuff to their cars that they would hang a shop if they did it.
Click to expand...


Small Block,

I removed the spacer before the new axles were ever installed but even if the spacer was still in it doesn't appear that they are engaging enough for the spacer to be in the way. They are only going into the spline approx
5/8". I think I may need to do as Rob suggested and go with the Yukon's that need to be cut to length. Thanks for the suggestions.
 
Small Block said:
Don't redrill axles ever. I did once but never again. I know sometimes we try to do alot of stuff on a very tight budget and we don't do anything but spend more money in the end. Called shooting yourself in the foot. Some guys do stuff to their cars that they would hang a shop if they did it.
Click to expand...

Mine were actually re-drilled 15+ yrs. before I bought the car (I know the prior history of my car for approx. 20 yrs. before I owned it). I know the guy before me raced it allot and never had any problem but I also know only street tires have been on it. I wouldn't put slicks on it the way it is. I'm not saying re-drilling is the right way to do it but that's how mine is done and it has worked out OK. I've also read several other posts where guys have done it on street cars and had no problems. Nevertheless I do plan on changing the axles for Yukon's as soon as I can afford a set.

I never do things to my car that will cost more in the end. I learned that the hard way when I was young. If I can't do it to the best of my ability it sets until I have the money. As far as the axles go I don't plan on racing much with it until I do get better axles. For now what little racing I do will be on street tires. I have checked them several times since I owned them and never find any faults.

BTW: Mine are re-drilled to the big pattern but still use 7/16 bolts and they are Moser bolts. There for sure is not enough meat to drill them to the big pattern.
 
Well I would love to be able to use the Yukon's since I have already invested the $ into them but I am about to pull my hair out getting it all to work. This was supposed to be a bolt in and go swap #-o
 
What 3rd member are you using? I assume you ordered A body axles and that's what they sent? Still scratching my head and will continue to watch this. I can still learn on someone elses dime. They had green bearing? Were the flanges bottomed out on the studs? Can't think of anything that would keep em from engaging all the way other than being too short. Still scratching. When installing the new axles with GB did you smack the ends of the axles with a rubber mallet to seat em in real good? I've got the same axles and i, without knowing , put the spacer between the axles. Called tech support at Eaton ,who supplied the Detroit tru trac, and the said on use it on stock axles as i'm sure you knew. I didn't. I hadn't ran it yet.
 
Small Block said:
What 3rd member are you using? I assume you ordered A body axles and that's what they sent? Still scratching my head and will continue to watch this. I can still learn on someone elses dime. They had green bearing? Were the flanges bottomed out on the studs? Can't think of anything that would keep em from engaging all the way other than being too short. Still scratching. When installing the new axles with GB did you smack the ends of the axles with a rubber mallet to seat em in real good? I've got the same axles and i, without knowing , put the spacer between the axles. Called tech support at Eaton ,who supplied the Detroit tru trac, and the said on use it on stock axles as i'm sure you knew. I didn't. I hadn't ran it yet.
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If you're scratching your head that makes two of us :dontknow: I am using a 742 center section with a factory sure grip. The axles are 28" yukon's w/green bearings ordered for the A-body 8.75. I have upgraded the rear drums to the 73 and up 2.5" rears complete with the matching backing plate. The axles were smacked good with a rubber mallet and the flanges bottomed out on the studs and tightened up without a fight. Only thing I can come up with is either the axles are to short, the bearing on the Yukon's aren't pressed on all the way or there is an unknown issue with the 3rd member. Everything worked peachy when it was on the stock axles/brakes and SBP wheels.

New question...does anyone know if the 73+ LBP cars used a longer axle than the older SBP cars due to their brakes being 1/2" wider? I am pretty sure the axles are the same length on all the a-bods but I figured I would ask.
 
Ok I think we have this figured out. I was told about Dr Diff on the moparts board and I gave him a call today. It turns out that he is the one that spec'd the Yukon's for Randy's Ring and Pinion. He told me that the first sets of Yukon's came out shorter than he spec'd with Yukon stating that they were concerned that some would leave the thrust pin in the diff and they wanted to be sure there was enough clearance for that.

The problem I am having is that as Rob pointed out early in this thread I have a 2 piece side gear and the Yukon's are only engaging the first set of splines if my chuck was a 1 peice I would have never had any issues. The fixes are A) switch to a 1 piece side gear B) get a set of "cut to fit" axles. Not sure which way I want to go I honestly wouldn't mind going to a 489 case with 3:55's but dang these chunks are expensive. Going to ask around this weekend and see if one of the locals has an extra they want to part with.
 
Hey Swingerman just curious as to which sure-grip unit you have. Is it the cone type or clutch type? I though all 742's came with the clutch type but I may be mistaken. I have a 742 here and it is the clutch type and the side gear is only one piece. I haven't seen a cone type up close so I don't know what the side gears in them are like.
 
From what Dr. Diff told me my sure grip is a Power Lock and I believe it's the cone type although with my limited experience with them I am not 100% sure.
 
The power lock is the Dana and it is the clutch type. The cone type is called the Borg Spin resistant. You can easily identify the 2 different ones. The Clutch type has multiple openings in the case where the cone type only has 2 openings and you can see springs through the openings on the cone type. The clutch type don't have any springs.

Here are pictures of the 2. The first is the Borg cone type and the 2nd is the Dana powerlock. I see by the cut away of the first that is shows the cone type having 2 piece side gears so yours must be a Borg cone type. By all rights the 742 cases were supposed to only have the Dana powerlock but I bet that in 69 when they were phasing over to the new 489 case they ran out of powerlocks before 742 cases so some cone types got installed into 742 cases.

suregrip2.gif


clutch.jpg
 
Swingerman: If you can switch over to the 489 and get a detroit tru trac and be done with it. Be sure and spec out to the vendor which case your using. I don't think the brakes are an issue. I did the same thing and went to an 11" X 2.3" rear brake. Make sure you back off the e brake adjustment when you put on the larger brakes. It WILL bind up if you don't. Keep us posted. Thanks
 
Ok guys I ordered a set of cut-to fit yukon's from Dr Diff and he is cutting/maching them to be the correct length should have them by the end of the week. I have the diff at a shop and they are pricing putting in a TrueTrac and swapping to 3:55's for me. Hopefully I will be rolling soon.
 
Here is the final update on the issues I have been having. I installed the new custom cut Yukon's and took her for a spin and it seems all is well. I wanted to thank everyone who posted in this thread the wealth of knowledge here is what makes this place great. Special thanks to Cass aka "Dr. Diff" from Moparts for his help and getting me the parts I needed to get the Dart back on the road. Moral of this story, do not use standard 28" Yukon's with a 2 piece side gear!
 
SwingerMan said:
Here is the final update on the issues I have been having. I installed the new custom cut Yukon's and took her for a spin and it seems all is well. I wanted to thank everyone who posted in this thread the wealth of knowledge here is what makes this place great. Special thanks to Cass aka "Dr. Diff" from Moparts for his help and getting me the parts I needed to get the Dart back on the road. Moral of this story, do not use standard 28" Yukon's with a 2 piece side gear!
Click to expand...

Glad to hear you got it going.

BTW: I have been trying to get in touch with Cass to buy a gear set from him. Tried all last week and his pH. just rings and rings. Sent an e-mail on Tues. and no response. Have you talked to him in the past few days?
 
fishy,
I haven't talked to him since I ordered the axles back last Monday. I tried to call him on Thurs but had the same results as you, not sure if he is out or what.

fishy68 said:
Glad to hear you got it going.

BTW: I have been trying to get in touch with Cass to buy a gear set from him. Tried all last week and his pH. just rings and rings. Sent an e-mail on Tues. and no response. Have you talked to him in the past few days?
Click to expand...
 
Small Block said:
What did he price you a tru trac for? How much?
Click to expand...

I ended up just sticking with my chunk the way it was with the factory sure grip. I just had my local shop tear it down to make sure it was ok, he quoted me on the truetrac but it slips my mind at the moment. You may try giving him a call @ 406-883-4772 ask for Cass.
 
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