adriver
Blazing Apostle
This is pretty straight forward, but it's raining and I have coffee.
So on the chance that someone need to see some pictures.
Went to open my driver’s door last week and pop click nothing.
I figure it’s probably got around 500 thousand cycles on it.
The little finger broke off.
Don’t know if anyone else will have this problem. I have a nice door sticker and didn’t have to violate it too much to get the top screw out. But yours top screw may be covered.
Here’s my fix with pictures.
If you have a wire feed welder, it can be done pretty easily.
I have spare doors and was planning to pull a spare the latch out of one of them.
But they are a PITA to get out of the door, so I welded mine back up rather then cannibalize a good door. And it should never break again.
(When I dug a spare door out of the pile, I did notice that a 74 Dart non-remote mirror is the same as a 69 Road Runner. Took a picture. Light blue)
Of course, take the rubber bumper off the post before you weld.
And don’t ground it where current will flow through a hinge, joint or pivot point or it will weld that.
Don’t have to worry much about “grooving” this little butt weld. All is on one side and there is plenty of room for the weld.
Keep the door parts lubed good.
I mix up synthetic red grease, Marvel and maybe some WD40 in oil can and squirt everywhere. Squirt up in the locks and window regulators. Can’t put too much on.
The little plastic keepers are also a PITA. White screwdriver is pointing to one.
They swing out of the way to let the rods come out of the holes.
Maybe someone knows and will post a source in this thread for anyone that needs them. They break. But if you keep stuff covered with grease it protects the plastic and rubber, I guess.
Last time I posted a “How Too” I learned that you can get the firewall disconnect blade terminals from someone instead of having to reuse them.
No good tips on how to get the latch out.
It helps to have long thin arms and finger.
So on the chance that someone need to see some pictures.
Went to open my driver’s door last week and pop click nothing.
I figure it’s probably got around 500 thousand cycles on it.
The little finger broke off.
Don’t know if anyone else will have this problem. I have a nice door sticker and didn’t have to violate it too much to get the top screw out. But yours top screw may be covered.
Here’s my fix with pictures.
If you have a wire feed welder, it can be done pretty easily.
I have spare doors and was planning to pull a spare the latch out of one of them.
But they are a PITA to get out of the door, so I welded mine back up rather then cannibalize a good door. And it should never break again.
(When I dug a spare door out of the pile, I did notice that a 74 Dart non-remote mirror is the same as a 69 Road Runner. Took a picture. Light blue)
Of course, take the rubber bumper off the post before you weld.
And don’t ground it where current will flow through a hinge, joint or pivot point or it will weld that.
Don’t have to worry much about “grooving” this little butt weld. All is on one side and there is plenty of room for the weld.
Keep the door parts lubed good.
I mix up synthetic red grease, Marvel and maybe some WD40 in oil can and squirt everywhere. Squirt up in the locks and window regulators. Can’t put too much on.
The little plastic keepers are also a PITA. White screwdriver is pointing to one.
They swing out of the way to let the rods come out of the holes.
Maybe someone knows and will post a source in this thread for anyone that needs them. They break. But if you keep stuff covered with grease it protects the plastic and rubber, I guess.
Last time I posted a “How Too” I learned that you can get the firewall disconnect blade terminals from someone instead of having to reuse them.
No good tips on how to get the latch out.
It helps to have long thin arms and finger.
