DragRace Wheels

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eekvonzipper

eekvonzipper

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Is a 3" Stud Really Required at the DragStrip? All the way around?
and If so Do you have to Mill-Off the end of the Lug-Nut? or Can you get Open-Faced Lugs for CenterLines and Uni-Lug Wheels?
a bit Cornfused on wether or not to stay with a Stndrd Sized Stud for an 1/8th Mi. Car?

wheel.jpg
 
The end of most closed lug nuts will tap right off if you go in with a punch and a hammer. I don't believe "every" class has the 3" wheel stud rule.
 
I believe it boils down to a requirement that the wheel stud engage at least its diameter into the lug head. (1/2" studs engage the lug 1/2" past the wheel face). Many race wheels are thicker so you'll need longer than OEM studs to extend past the wheel surface. Open face lugs allow tech to quickly & easily see the thread engagement.

Studs aren't visible in the pic so either they are broke or too short.
 
Check the rule book for the sanctioning body at the track, or check with the tech people at the track. I run long studs on my car because I've see what can happen.
 
Regardless of passing tech, do it for yourself.
 
If you're running 15x3 centerline auto drags, (which is what I think your pics show) you WILL need long studs, not only to pass tech, but to be safe.
As guys have pointed out, it depends on the rules where you race, and what wheels you run. The thicker the wheel center, and if you might want to run spacers, the more you need quality long studs. I have three inch studs all the way around on three cars, for 15x3 lines on the front, and spacers on the rear.
And yes, open end lugs with a loooong shank and open ends are (or at least were) available. Required with long studs..
 
As stated above the stud has to protrude out of the wheel at least the same thickness as the thread Diameter for street.

A good explanation is if the stud is under the wheel surface you can tighten the lug and tear the head off of the shank. You need to have the threads on the stud in the hex part of the lug.
 
The above explanations are correct. As much as NHRA changes the rules, best to get a current rule book. But the rule book is not always right. It depends on who is in charge that day. Example: Look at all the disqualifications at Vegas last week. And most drivers/teams were not even notified that their runs were DNQ'D until they heard it as supper or by word of mouth. NHRA has become a "chitt" show.
 
20231108_105909.jpg
Here are some new open end lug nuts from Jegs and Billet Specialties, and an old one from Cragar for Super Tricks showing different length shanks.
 
While discussing. How do you determine shank length with centerlines or say pro stars?
tinman2 said:
20231108_105909.jpg
Here are some new open end lug nuts from Jegs and Billet Specialties, and an old one from Cragar for Super Tricks showing different length shanks.
Click to expand...
 
LOL. I have a storage bin full of used racing lugs....because the chrome wasn't perfect.
 
Kendog 170 said:
While discussing. How do you determine shank length with centerlines or say pro stars?
Click to expand...
Measure the thickness of the wheel where the lug goes through and find a shank length just a bit shorter. Not sure if they factor in the washer thickness. But keep the shank as long as possible without bottoming out on the brake drum or rotor.
 
I thought as much but double checking. I currently have 3/4 shank on Pro stars. Just want to check and see if I can use longer shank before I order new ones.
 
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