Does anybody know where I can get a shallow drain plug kit for my 8 3/4 housing? Suggestions on placement?
drain plug for 8 3/4 housing
- Thread starter str12-340
- Start date
-
Can't help with where to get one, but on the placement, make sure to offset it enough so the ring gear doesn't hit it while keeping it as close to the bottom as possible.
rklein383
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 2, 2005
- Messages
- 2,215
- Reaction score
- 1,815
I would think your local hardware store (ACE Hardware ETC.) would have what you want. I'm pretty sure they're simple pipe thread plugs.
Just drill and tap for 1/4" NPT
got a reply from Doctor Diff. He didn't have any on hand so he sent me this link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QYGMVT5/?tag=fabo03-20 I ordered one. Since the bung is welded on the outside of the housing there is little or no protrusion into the housing so no worries about getting too close to anything.
Thank You to Cass for his help!
Thank You to Cass for his help!
I have a difficult time understanding this. If you're draining the fluid, you're most likely taking the chunk out. If you're taking the chunk out, you drain the fluid when you do. Just get a big pan.
We installed a drain and a quick fill plug in our rear for changing gears at the track. The pan can get messy at times . Just a convenience.
340sFastback
Well-Known Member
Every time you go around a corner the sure grip clutches are wearing and leaving debris in the gear oil. For cone sure grips that debris is metal. I use a suction gun to suck the gear oil out of my 8 3/4 cone sure grip and I can see the metallic tint in the removed gear oil. So changing gear oil is preventative maintenance.
CudaFactHackJob
Well-Known Member
Stick a magnet on the outside of the housing.
I get that, but it all settles right there in the bottom. It's easy to get to. If you are seeing metal in the gear oil, there's a problem. The clutches are lined with fiber material. That's the wear surface, not the metal.
I can certainly see neatness as a reason.
Just go to the hardware store and get an 1/8" pipe tap, correct size drill for that tap, and an 1/8" allen head plug. It is nice to be able to drain the oil out the day before, then the hogs head will not get oil everywhere when you pull it out. Then you can flush everything out through the drain hole. Did this to both of my cars. The magnet isn't a bad idea, make sure that the size of it is low profile.
mopowers
Well-Known Member
How many threads can you get in the stamped housing? I'd be afraid of stripping it out without welding on some type of bung. But then again, I overthink EVERYTHING. Haha!
I have done this twice, no issues. It's just an 1/8" pipe plug, which is fine thread. Put some thread sealant on it and install it.
The OP already ordered a kit, but now, after drilling the hole, will have to clean the inside of the housing of dripping oil so that he can weld the bung on, then repaint it.
It really doesn't need the bung, really.
The OP already ordered a kit, but now, after drilling the hole, will have to clean the inside of the housing of dripping oil so that he can weld the bung on, then repaint it.
It really doesn't need the bung, really.
Did you see the listing in the add 1/2 npt, that is huge.
thesiren74
Well-Known Member
Hard to get it all out and waste rags. It works when changing the stinky gear oil.
The rear came with a small allen screw tapped directly into the housing and it seemed to leak no matter what I did. What I like about the one Doctor Dif recommended is that the bung is thick and welded onto the outside of the case with a beveled edge so it won't catch on anything. The plug is pretty shallow and I don't think it will even protrude into the housing.
You can get an aluminum 1/8" allen plug if you were really nervous about stripping it.
Just found another good reason for the drain plug, after flushing, I looked in there with a mirror and flash light. I am changing out my worn out cone for a new Yukon clutch sure grip. You would be surprised, gasket material, silicone and the known metal material or debris. After flushing, running a magnet around the weld seams where metal was caught, I then went over it with the shop vac. It's as clean now as it's going to get.
Just found another good reason for the drain plug, after flushing, I looked in there with a mirror and flash light. I am changing out my worn out cone for a new Yukon clutch sure grip. You would be surprised, gasket material, silicone and the known metal material or debris. After flushing, running a magnet around the weld seams where metal was caught, I then went over it with the shop vac. It's as clean now as it's going to get.
-
