Drivers Door: Video inside.

[plumkrazee70]

I have a 70 Dart Swinger 2 door. The drivers door has always been a pain to get open, I have to lift up a little to get it to open. It will close if I slam it, otherwise its the same deal.

I made a video to explain what I am talking about. My question is can this be fixed with a simple hinge adjustment or do I need a new hinge?

Thanks again.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ox1jxuFzv3o"]Dart driver door - YouTube[/ame]

 

[CudaJunction]

Jawessus you need to have the striker fixed so its adjustable again then see what you have. May need door bushings to shut correctly after that.

 

[Serj22]

That's what my door did right before the hinge blew into the door. Turned out the little cam gear was getting all jammed up on the lower hinge and was putting so much pressure on the door it eventually blew right into it and punched a hole out. You had to lift up on the door to open it, and also if you lifted up and closed it it was easy to close.

My door gap looked exactly the same as well. The lower hinge was just toast, and the door was more or less just hanging on the upper one. Then you lifted up to get it to grab onto that barrel that closes the door. I repaired the massive hole in the door and then bolted a new hinge up, and got the little cam unstuck, and it worked fine and still does. Also the door even when on the striker probably looks lower than the panel behind it correct?

 

[plumkrazee70]

Jawessus you need to have the striker fixed so its adjustable again then see what you have. May need door bushings to shut correctly after that.

I know the weld looks bad. It wasn't I that did this. Keep in mind I am the 2nd and 5th owner of this car and it has been like this ever since I first owned it 12 years ago...

How is the striker adjustable anyway? I thought it just screwed in? What would you suggest on a repair?

A. Cut the whole thing out and patch a donor panel in with striker?

B. Take that striker out and grind the weld down?

 

[plumkrazee70]

That's what my door did right before the hinge blew into the door. Turned out the little cam gear was getting all jammed up on the lower hinge and was putting so much pressure on the door it eventually blew right into it and punched a hole out. You had to lift up on the door to open it, and also if you lifted up and closed it it was easy to close.

My door gap looked exactly the same as well. The lower hinge was just toast, and the door was more or less just hanging on the upper one. Then you lifted up to get it to grab onto that barrel that closes the door. I repaired the massive hole in the door and then bolted a new hinge up, and got the little cam unstuck, and it worked fine and still does. Also the door even when on the striker probably looks lower than the panel behind it correct?

Thanks for the reply. I have a spare door hinge (upper and lower) I may just replace them and go from there.

 

[jdakota]

Do the door hinges have pins? If so, they may be worn causing the sag. Replacing the pins (if that's how they're constructed) would be an easy fix.

 

[CudaJunction]

Striker is supposed to move around the area on the outside of the door post. Yours cant do that its welded solid.

 

[1968FormulaS340]

Door is dropping as it opens. Most likely need the hinges rebuilt. Everything is complicated by the welded striker. Gaps mean almost nothing on these cars. The uneven gap could be how it came from the factory.

You could try a couple free things. Put a floor jack under the rear of the door. Loosen all the hinge bolts to the body on the bottom hinge, loosen all but one hinge to body bolt on the top hinge. Jack up the rear of the door, re tighten the bolts. You are trying to get the latch to match the striker correctly. You may need to play with which hinge you pivot off of (which one you keep a tight bolt on).

This should at least get the door working right.

 

[plumkrazee70]

Door is dropping as it opens. Most likely need the hinges rebuilt. Everything is complicated by the welded striker. Gaps mean almost nothing on these cars. The uneven gap could be how it came from the factory.

You could try a couple free things. Put a floor jack under the rear of the door. Loosen all the hinge bolts to the body on the bottom hinge, loosen all but one hinge to body bolt on the top hinge. Jack up the rear of the door, re tighten the bolts. You are trying to get the latch to match the striker correctly. You may need to play with which hinge you pivot off of (which one you keep a tight bolt on).

This should at least get the door working right.

This is great. I will try this and report back.