Durango overheating question.

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msaund69

msaund69

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I know its not an a body but I figured lots of members either own or wrench on them. I could try a Durango forum but most seem to focus on the mud and manly side of things lol!

Anyways her goes. Is a 2002 Durango AWD with the 4.7. It has randomly overheated and puked out the coolant. I changed the stat and once refilled with coolant it ran fine for months,summer or winter. Then it would randomly overheat again. Refill and away we go for another few months. Until today it only happened to my wife and daughter so I never got to see the symptoms. I have been religiously checking fluid levels and they stay fine.

Just did it to me today though so I got to check it out.

Started truck (+8c here in Canada today btw) and drove away. Minutes into drive Gauge says 1/4 heat but no heat in cabin. Just blowing cold air..... Hmmm.. 1 minute later warning on dash and gauge close to red zone. Let her sit and cool and limped 1/2 mile home. Still hot in laneway running but checked a few things.

If you crack rad cap fluid comes out instantly.

Upper and lower hoses only warm.

Rad cool to warm.

No white smoke or poor performance.

No pump bearing noise.

Oil looks clean.

No evidence of loosing coolant.

Clutch and aux electric fan running.

So I'm thinking coolant not circulating. That points to thermostat (recently replaced) or water pump. I can replace the pump but since its so random i wont know if i fixed anything. What I don't understand in them working fine for months, quitting then brink OK for another few months. Ideas I'm baffled.
 
id let the truck cool down then start it up with the rad cap off watching the fluid. build it up to operating temp and see if the fluid starts to flow (thermostat opens) it should flow like a river if not possible water pump or some gunk build up. while it is running you can also see if the fans are kicking on. your water pump could have cavitation in it or the blades might be eroded lacking poor circulation
 
Sooooo. First thing. I know for sure it never boiled over today. Its cold now and just removed the rad cap. Not running in laneway. Serious sucking sound when removing cap. Down 4 liters (1 gallon) of antifreeze! Overflow still full. Refiled rad and now interior heat and gauge running normal. Thinking bad cap not returning coolant from overflow.

Just drove 1 hour all good. Ordered new cap. Hopefully an $8 fix!
 
Been down this road with my Dakota 4.7. You probably have a blockage in the system, most likely the heater core, it doesn't take much crude to block these. But before you go and have it flushed, Check all the hoses first to make that they are not collapsed when the engine is hot.
 
norton said:
Been down this road with my Dakota 4.7. You probably have a blockage in the system, most likely the heater core, it doesn't take much crude to block these. But before you go and have it flushed, Check all the hoses first to make that they are not collapsed when the engine is hot.
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Don't think its a heater core issue re being short 1 gallon of coolant! Really thinking its not recovering coolant and over a few months the level becomes too low.
 
ef8340 said:
id let the truck cool down then start it up with the rad cap off watching the fluid. build it up to operating temp and see if the fluid starts to flow (thermostat opens) it should flow like a river if not possible water pump or some gunk build up. while it is running you can also see if the fans are kicking on. your water pump could have cavitation in it or the blades might be eroded lacking poor circulation
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Thanks for the ideas. I think it a loss of coolant issue due to a bad cap.
 
Probably both heads and the block cracked with two blown head gaskets. I'm just optimistic like that.
 
the radiators on those also like to plug cause the lower hose is up high on those radiators. or the impeller could be spinning on the water pump shaft seen that to.
 
First thanks to everybody for helping out.!

Now for the update. Well the cap tested bad. The coolant return valve was defective. Its been a few days and about 500 miles since replacing the cap. Temp runs right where it should. $8 fix.

As a side note it has been to two "higher end" shops over the past six months to try and fix this. Both times it died in the city on the girls and getting it home to me was not really an option. One said it was a blockage in the rear heater core (?) and wanted $1500 it replace the core. The other said water pump at $800. Both times I refilled the coolant and drove it home.
 
Also, has the grille been changed to an aftermarket or have you blocked it with any cardboard etc for winter?

I know that they need as much airflow as possible through the front end. If you add any cardboard or aftermarket grilles that have more air restriction, it could also make it overheat.
 
krazykuda said:
Also, has the grille been changed to an aftermarket or have you blocked it with any cardboard etc for winter?

I know that they need as much airflow as possible through the front end. If you add any cardboard or aftermarket grilles that have more air restriction, it could also make it overheat.
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Grill is stock with no restrictions. Thanks!
 
I've always been VERY skeptical of the 4.7L V8. Just for the fun of it, I Googled "dodge 4.7 heating problems". I got 170,000 hits.

The first 10 do have some good info, though.
 
Frankie said:
I've always been VERY skeptical of the 4.7L V8. Just for the fun of it, I Googled "dodge 4.7 heating problems". I got 170,000 hits.

The first 10 do have some good info, though.
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I kinda heard the same thing. However other than the overheating its been OK. I use it as a spare vehicle and general towing. Not the toughest 4wd and a gas pig but it was cheap like me lol!
 
Finally got it fixed. Plastic tank cracked at lower rad hose. Would only leak when driving. Would suck air when parked and not draw back antifreeze. Replaced rad. Perfect!
 
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