Duster Wont Start

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Drake

Drake

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It has been about two weeks since I started it, but before then it ran fine. The car turns over, but it wont start. I checked the coil (which is new) and it gets a spark, but the number 1 plug isn't getting fire. The wiring to the coil is in good shape. The coil gives off a yellow spark; is it too weak? I mean, the car hasn't been driven yet, so either the coil is going bad, or the wiring just "up-and-died."

Any info is appreciated.

-- Drake
 
check the cap and rotor to see if it is corroded and or making a good contact. I had this issue with mine, and it was the coil...even though it was getting spark from the terminal
 
Did you try jump starting it? Mabby the batt is just a little to weak to turn it over fast enough to start it from sitting. Some times that happens to me any way.
 
Cap and rotor are in good operating condition, and the battery charge reads 12.74, give or take. It still wont start. :(
 
I used a voltmeter to test the charge of the battery, coil, and the ECU unit. Everything checked out except for the coil. I tested the charge on our Falcon, and the reading was 5.37 volts. On the Duster, the reading is -3.74 volts; is that my problem?

I am taking it to the parts house tonight to have it tested, in case I am doing it wrong. If they can't test it, I will replace it.

-- Drake
 
I have a 73 Plymouth Duster that I have restored. It purred like a kitten until 1 week ago. Same thing is happening with me now. I replaced the ballast resistor, ECU, Magnetic pickup, ignition switch. the wiring under the dash to the bulkhead connector. running electrical tests I get 9.5-10 volts on run as it should be but like 5 on start. Obviously not enough spark to start but IDK why or where it search. It's almost as if it goes through the resistor twice? maybe a shorted wire ing my engine bay. I'm going to tear it apart tomorrow. But ya I get like -3 volts on the start for some reason, we thought it might have been the coils kickback response or something.
 
You need to try and figure out if this is a voltage supply problem or an ignition problem

1 Pull all connectors, the ECU, the ballast, and the dist, and work them in/ out to clean them. Feel for "tightness" of fit, and inspect for corrosion

2 Turn the key to "run" with engine off. Hook one probe of your meter to the blue field connector on your alternator, and the other end to battery POSITIVE. You are measuring the harness voltage drop and the lower the better. Anything over .2--.3V (three tenths of one volt) is getting too much.

3 Clip your meter to coil + and battery + Crank the engine USING THE KEY and while the engine is cranking, read the meter. Once again, you are hoping for a very low reading, below 1/2 volt.

4 Check the gap in the distributor reluctor/ pickup. O'Really has brass feeler gauges, you need a .008". That's inches, not mm. While doing this, check the reluctor and pickup for rust, debri, or damage.

5 You can also hook your meter on low AC volts to the two pins on the disconnected distributor connector. Crank the engine, and the dist. should generate about 1V AC

6 Check the resistance of the coil when disconnected. You'll have to tell us what coil you are running as many are different.

7 If you have good voltage at the checks earlier, next, hook your meter to the battery and crank the engine. You should have ABOVE 10.5V the higher the better

8 Double check at the coil + Hook your meter to the coil + and to ground. Crank the engine using the KEY. YOU should have at LEAST 10.5V or better

If all the above seems OK, make SURE you don't have a bad coil wire, IE how you checked the spark. "Rig" a spark gap to the coil using a known good wire, or use a grounded probe held near the top of the coil.

One last "trick" you can try to improve the spark is to hook a temporary clip lead from the coil + to the starter relay stud. DO not leave this connected long without starting the engine, and do not leave it connected long after starting the engine.

If none of the above results in any help, replace the coil (cheapest)
 
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