Eagle Forged Stroker Crank CRACKED

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It's well documented that Eagle cast cranks have a history of breaking right where the OP's crank broke, even in lower HP builds.

Just out of curiosity, how many companies are casting/forging Mopar cranks in the US?
 
LOL at this thread. NONE of you have enough info to determine what caused the OP's breakage. NONE.

You don't know the alloy, you don't know the grain size, you don't know the damper condition, you don't know the material hardness, you don't know the material toughness. None of you can categorize the breakage as a fatigue fracture or an outright overload failure. You don't even know if the material is cast iron, cast steel, or Long Wang's House Of Secret Recipe's menu number 5. Any inclusions in the material? Don't know. Any corrosion? Don't know. Any casting flaws? Don't know. Any non-metallic alloying ingredients? Don't know. Post-production treatments? Don't know. Proper installation? Don't know. Proper handling during shipping? Don't know. Crank condition prior to install? Don't know.

You don't (in regards to the parts involved) know ****.
OK genious, then how about instead of going on a rage you enlighten everyone on why the crankshaft DID break?
That is 100% NOT what 'those marks' are for. The forging is a piece of metal that's red hot, mashed into a crank shape by a massive hammer. The thick lines are flash (i.e. pieces of the original material that aren't going to be part of the crank. They are usually sawn off cold or cut off with a blade while still red hot. The forged crank is stronger because the material is 'worked' which strengthens it (for a variety of reasons). Think bending a paper clip or coat hanger; it's really hard to re-bend it in the same place, because the material has work-hardened in the bend. You don't usually see the flash lines on aftermarket cranks because they take great care to clean them up.
Pretty sure most people here know those marks aren't put onto crankshafts for the purpose of identifying them as cast or forged, but if the crank maker doesn't grind them off, they CAN be used for that purpose
When you run a Chinese crankshaft, you don't know fuckall about what you just bought, other than that it's SUPPOSED to be what you wanted. I've see Chinese castings with gravel, bolts, broken end mills, and huge voids in them that you don't find until you machine them. There's ZERO accountability and ZERO U.S.-level Q.C until it gets here. After it gets here, VERY few people do material certs or anything else to verify it is what it's supposed to be. They take your money and they laugh all the way to the bank.
Not all Chinese crankshafts, seems to be a problem with Eagle cranks. Scat cranks are also sourced from China (at least the blanks are) and they don't seem to have those problems. But again, why don't you enlighten the rest of us as to what crankshafts ARE of good quality? Having a bad day or something? Geez, get laid... it might improve your mood.
 
If I can add a few pointers here without ruffling any feathers, I build my stroker small block a few years ago with a scat forged crank and eagle H beam rods.
Eagle offers more than one horsepower rating for the same rods.
I was hesitant to use Eagle as I had heard some stories about their quality.
My local machinist also said that years ago when Eagle started out there were quality issues with the bore sizes. He said that years later they had really improved the big end machining and that that is no longer an issue.
During my build I over torqued a couple of rod bolts and discarded them. I called arp to get a few new bolts and found out that eagle also uses there own proprietary arp rod bolts
As well. I am a toolmaker by trade and I know how to perform precision measurements. I can tell you that the rods measured right on the money all around.
I cannot speak to the quality of the material of the rods.
The higher horsepower eagle rods use the arp 2000 material to eagles own design and you can only get those bolts from eagle.
Not sure if you really meant directly from Eagle or just meant cannot get them directly from ARP. I was able to order the Eagle part number from Summit racing. This is probably the same thing you were saying, but just in case.
Eagle Specialty Products EAG20000 Eagle ARP Connecting Rod Bolts | Summit Racing
 
Not sure if you really meant directly from Eagle or just meant cannot get them directly from ARP. I was able to order the Eagle part number from Summit racing. This is probably the same thing you were saying, but just in case.
Eagle Specialty Products EAG20000 Eagle ARP Connecting Rod Bolts | Summit Racing
At the time I called arp, they directed me to eagle and told me it is not an off the shelf bolt. It is eagles design. I called directly to eagle for bolts. Perhaps they are available at JEGS and summit. I just wanted to share my experience and point out that eagle uses their own custom bolt just like molar and the others and that the machining issues afaik are a thing of the past. Oh and I run a fluidamper. Also I noticed on the Summit website it says those bolts are a special order, as in well order them from eagle.
 
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...the machining issues afaik are a thing of the past. Oh and I run a fluidamper.
I hope their issues are a thing of the past. Just bought one of their 3.31 stroke forged cranks, only came in town for stock stroke 340 cranks I could find. Scat and Molnar only have stroker cranks in the $1-1.2K price range.
 
I hope their issues are a thing of the past. Just bought one of their 3.31 stroke forged cranks, only came in town for stock stroke 340 cranks I could find. Scat and Molnar only have stroker cranks in the $1-1.2K price range.
At the time I built my motor, I decided on a scat forged, but I had seen many builds with eagle h beam rods. I recently saw a David Vizard video on you tube and he really praised the quality of Scat crankshafts comparing them with some of the biggest names in crankshafts.
Someone on the forum the other day mentioned that most or all of the Mopar performance cranks were made by Scat.
 
OK genious, then how about instead of going on a rage you enlighten everyone on why the crankshaft DID break?

Pretty sure most people here know those marks aren't put onto crankshafts for the purpose of identifying them as cast or forged, but if the crank maker doesn't grind them off, they CAN be used for that purpose

Not all Chinese crankshafts, seems to be a problem with Eagle cranks. Scat cranks are also sourced from China (at least the blanks are) and they don't seem to have those problems. But again, why don't you enlighten the rest of us as to what crankshafts ARE of good quality? Having a bad day or something? Geez, get laid... it might improve your mood.
Why don't I enlighten everyone? Because I don't talk out of my ***, that's why.

Scat cranks may be blanked in China, but as a I said, MOST people don't do their homework. If Scat does, good for them. The rest take your money and don't give two ***** if it leaves you walking.

At least I can spell 'genius', genius. :icon_fU:
 
The OP is looking for an answer that's really just a guess.
 
Why don't I enlighten everyone? Because I don't talk out of my ***, that's why.

Scat cranks may be blanked in China, but as a I said, MOST people don't do their homework. If Scat does, good for them. The rest take your money and don't give two ***** if it leaves you walking.

At least I can spell 'genius', genius. :icon_fU:




So you dont ******* know either.

I can tell you I’ve mag’d more broken ******* cranks than you‘ve ever seen and every one that wasnt killed by a **** blown alcohol tune up it was the junk **** damper.

Thats a ******* fact.

So keep running your junk **** dampers and think you know something.

Here’s one for you. I just installed a garbage Summit damper today and if anyone bothered to read the instructions that come with them they’d know the limits they have. They are stock replacement and barely good enough for that.
 
So you dont ******* know either.

I can tell you I’ve mag’d more broken ******* cranks than you‘ve ever seen and every one that wasnt killed by a **** blown alcohol tune up it was the junk **** damper.

Thats a ******* fact.

So keep running your junk **** dampers and think you know something.

Here’s one for you. I just installed a garbage Summit damper today and if anyone bothered to read the instructions that come with them they’d know the limits they have. They are stock replacement and barely good enough for that.
I know that my cranks aren't broken.
 
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