early 8 3/4 rears?

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barbee6043

barbee6043

barbee 6043
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I have a 63 and 65 dart slant cars, and a 273 65 cuda ( all auto). all have the 7 1/4. I want to at least change the 65 cuda to an 8 3/4. I have access to 65 b body 8 3/4, I will just fun drive, no racing...never had muck luck with d urability of 7 1/4 not to mention parts problem. I know the early 8 3/4 are not desirable due to the c clip deal. I know I will have to move the perches. will it work with stock 14 in 5 1/2 rims? i'm thinking the 65 rear end is slightly narrower than the 66-70? ..... A body 8 3/4 are too high for me, havn't run into 8 1/4 for a while........
 
b body will be big bolt pattern, 65 has the Keyed hub & nut doesn't it?
if you mean the stock A body wheels, no it wont work those are small pattern
 
64 was the last year for the keywayed drums, and if you're thinking of going to a B body rear, the 65-67 is the preferred unit! Like mentioned above though, all B bodies are large bolt so your 14x5.5" small bolt rims will not work!

There is also no C-clip 8 3/4" rear end! It is the keywayed drum and large nut axle you want to steer away from! Hope this all helps, Geof
 
i believe the 65 has the nut. so 66-7 is best years? yes I have bbp rims to use. how much wider is the 66-7 b body rear vs the a body 8 3/4??? thanks for the info..
 
barbee6043 said:
i believe the 65 has the nut. so 66-7 is best years? yes I have bbp rims to use. how much wider is the 66-7 b body rear vs the a body 8 3/4??? thanks for the info..
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A body is 52 5/8ths, 65-67 B body is 54 1/4.

Spring perches would need to be moved in 1/2 inch on each side to fit into the A body. Many people will tell you to just pull the springs out and bolt it in. That WILL work, but I always ask, "why didn't Ma Mopar do it that way?" I don't think it's a good idea because it would put undue stress on the front and rear bushings, bolts etc.
 
The three 65 b-body's I had did not have nuts.
I know one was original because my grandfather bought it new.
 
cosgig said:
64 was the last year for the keywayed drums, and if you're thinking of going to a B body rear, the 65-67 is the preferred unit! Like mentioned above though, all B bodies are large bolt so your 14x5.5" small bolt rims will not work!

There is also no C-clip 8 3/4" rear end! It is the keywayed drum and large nut axle you want to steer away from! Hope this all helps, Geof
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Yeah. That's what I used to think. I had a 65 Coronet and every indication pointed to it having the original rear axle. Then, I have also read that some 65 models were held over with the tapered axle unit.

There's really nothing wrong with them. If you're scared of them, just hack off the ends and have some later flanges welded on. Nothin to it. But you can run them just like they are. Max Wedge and Hemi cars both came with them, so I bet you won't break one.
 
Since you mentioned the 8 1/4 - check into the Jeep Cherokee 8 1/4 rear. There are lots of them around. My e-brake cables fit right in. You will have to move the spring perches, but that's minor. I would recommend a 96 and older because of the 27 spline axles. Most have the 3.55 gear. Some are even equipped with Trac-Lock. If not, you can find Trac-Lock in the Dakota and Durango rears. The Durango and Dakota rears are too wide, the Jeep fits fine.
 
I'm thinking the 63 Dart is a b body....they didn't become a bodies until 65 if memory serves correct. So the early 8 3/4 should bolt right in on the 63.
 
5.7 hemi said:
I'm thinking the 63 Dart is a b body....they didn't become a bodies until 65 if memory serves correct. So the early 8 3/4 should bolt right in on the 63.
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The 63-66 Darts are the early A-body. The 61 and 62 are B-bodys. I have owned 63, 64 and 65 Darts... all A-bodies.

I have a 65 Plymouth B-body 8 3/4 rear, and I thought it is the narrowest of the B-bodies and that it easily fit in the early A-body with minor mods. Not correctly installed, but I understand the you can put them in an early A without modifing the spring perches. Has anyone here ever done that?
 
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