early B body rear in my duster

-
SRT_DSTRHOLC

SRT_DSTRHOLC

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2008
Messages
6,468
Reaction score
204
Location
USA
I have a i believe a 65 b body rear...whats needed to remove the drums so I can take the chunk out and rebuild everything?

and any way to tell if its a 65?
 
A '65 B-body rear should be 54 1/4" flange to flange. A-body flange to flange is 52 5/8".
 
ok but the drums are on...so how do i tell with that...
 
If it is indeed a 65 or later axle, the drums should slide right off. If there is a large nut on the end of the axle shaft on the outside of the brake drum, you have a pre-65 axle and should seriously consider getting one of the later ones. These have keyed hubs and are known to fail in performance applications, as well as being obselete and harder to work on and find parts for. The "pumpkin" is the same, save it if you go to a newer axle. Check the casting # on the pumpkin, if it ends in 657 or 741 it is also weaker and very hard to find parts for, you want one that ends in 489 or 742.
 
mine has a nut with a pin in it like the ones that are in the nuts on the front end parts ...is that a pre 65?
 
74Burntorange said:
mine has a nut with a pin in it like the ones that are in the nuts on the front end parts ...is that a pre 65?
Click to expand...

Yes, run like hell. As said above the brake drum is keyed to the tapered end of the axle shaft and should not be used for any medium to high HP usage. You have to rig a puller to remove the drum and once you've got a few tons of strain on it hit it with a rosebud torch. Note to self, stand to the side when you hit it with the heat. I am told that you can get custom made "flanged end" axles for the 657 but why bother.
 
actually...mine is a 741 already maybe I should take a picture
 
Keep the pumpkin if it is in good shape, it will fit in any 8-3/4 housing. The rest of the rear end is a good boat anchor.
 
Seems as everyone is forgetting that those rearends lived all day long behind max wedges.
 
I have a question, is the housing salveable? I mean can you take out the axles and chuck them and put a set of aftermarket axles that eliminate the keyed hubs? I have never thought to try this.
 
turbodart68 said:
I have a question, is the housing salveable? I mean can you take out the axles and chuck them and put a set of aftermarket axles that eliminate the keyed hubs? I have never thought to try this.
Click to expand...

Nope not without some serious work.

The ends have a different bolt pattern than later rears.

You'd need to cut off old ends, buy new ends, jigged and welded on. I just did this with a 64 rear splined axle rear.

Ends $65-90
Labor to do it, $50 if you are lucky, 100-175 is normal.

Then you have to buy backing plates/brakes

At that point you are better off finding a later B rear 66-70 or whatever.
 
Thanks Crackedback. I have 2 of them in my backyard. I have the jig and I used to build custom rear ends for a living. I had never tried and now I know that I am going to recycle those housings now.
 
turbodart68 said:
Thanks Crackedback. I have 2 of them in my backyard. I have the jig and I used to build custom rear ends for a living. I had never tried and now I know that I am going to recycle those housings now.
Click to expand...

Pretty easy to do with the mopar jig assembly.

Those keyed rears were behind MW cars and how big were the tires? Not very large like we have today.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top