Edelbrock intake oil leak

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68 A

68 A

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Hi,

So i got my 318 together last summer and i had a small oil leak. Oil was leaking out from between the edelbrock intake and the block by the timing chain cover by cylinder 2. I took it apart this spring and resealed it (high temp silicone was used both times). It didn't leak idling it around with a shot tranny.

I put a new 904 in it, and finally was able to get on it (5,500 rpm), and of course the seal started to blow alot more oil out than it was before. I got the intake off last night and it is still leaking in the same spot from what i can tell.

It appears that the gasket surfaces don't match up between the intake and the block in the very corner.

has anyone else had this problem? i dont want to keep "fixing" this everytime i get on the throttle hard. Any other suggestions?

Thanks,

STeve



where i beleive it is leaking and not sealing is right below the water port

dart 404.jpg
 
You have to get a rel good size glob of goop in that little area under the water port where the head and block meet. Also let it set up for a little while before you put the intake back on other wise the cork gasket will slide out if you dont have any dowel pins..

I use the high temp sealer on bolth sides of the cork gasket as well just for the extra precaution.
 
Apply a good 1/4" bead of silicone across the front, don't use the cork or rubber end seals and you won't have any leaks.
 
Get a valley tray to shield the oil down by the camshaft...its like $25 or so...you will need to remove the pushrods to drop it in....on a plus side, it keeps more oil by the cam and off the intake manifold.
 
i haven't used cork or rubber seals yet. Only high temp silicone. The gaskets won't even fit since i had to have the intake milled down .060 so it would line up with the head. I'll probably give the silicone another shot. Last time i let it set up for about 10 minets before putting the intake back on. I also didn't start the engine for 48 hours to let it set up good too. Won't get to it till tommorow night at the earliest though.

Thanks!

Steve
 
I gave up on silicone and started using the "The Right Stuff" instead.No waiting for it to set up just put it together and it's ready in a few minutes to use.It's more expensive than silicone but worth it
 
I didnt use the cork end gaskets the last time I put mine back together and I used to have the same issue. Aside from that, it almost looks like the high temp sealer you used was practically dry before you set the intake in place. Im just basing that off of the look of the bead of sealer in your picture. It looks like it dried the way you applyed it. I put a good amount in the corner like what was mentioned earlier, however I DIDNT wait for it to tack up because I wanted the wet sealer to seep into all the little "nooks and crannies". Anyway there is my 2 cents. Hope it helps. Mine doesnt leak now so I guess something worked!:cheers:
 
gaskets are made for a reason silicon can be helpful or harmfull use a grey
high temp and a gasket use just a little on the corners and torque it to proper tightness and sequence and you shouldnt have a problem i have seen guys use silicon and use to much all it does is move the gasket when tightened a good tact glue is enough with a dab of silicon. My opinion
and I am a journy man tech
 
i agree with what 72demon says. the permatex ultra grey works great! its a good high temp sealer and its rigid for high torque so its less likely to spit out like some of the other sealers.
 
cant tell if the dowel pins are in or not,,,,you either have to pull them out or drill a small recess hole in the intake for them
 
i don't have any dowel pins. Got the engine without an intake on it, and i've never taken apart another engine, so i never even though about them. But it is still leaking a little bit. Maybe i'll try the grey permatex.

Thanks!

Steve
 
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