EFI install on my 360

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Agreed on the 36-1 crank trigger. Still working on mine - I ordered one from http://www.millersmule.com/MillersMuleStore/en/trigger-wheels/41-36-1-trigger-wheel.html and welded it to the crank pulley. I built a bracket to hold a ford 3.0L crank sensor to the oil pan rail, but if it's not stiff enough I can put it on a tab to the water pump.

For a distributor, use a 1992+ 3.9/5.2/5.9 magnum distributor. There are no mods needed as this is just a cam sensor anyway. It's a "half moon" type which is pretty much ideal. I think I paid $10 for one of these.

I am going to be using LSX coil near plug so I'm basically capping the distributor.
 
A stock electronic distributor can be modified by locking the advance plate, drilling and tapping 3, 6-32 threads for allen screw to lock the reluctor top hat. The screws need to be set to avoid run out. Where the advance plate is set adjusts trigger phase for rotor.

The reluctors are made of powdered iron, they can be demagnetized, else variations in cylinder timings. It takes bench work with a scope, timing light, variable speed motor to turn shaft. Use VR signal and trigger signal, storage scope or logic analyser. From that, check rotor phase, and timing cylinder to cylinder, tweek things to make it right. Really, not worth the time it takes. I totally agree with Mad Dart.

The Mallory Uni-Lite rotor with optical shutter can be modified and used with an optical vane sensor that is rated for automotive temperature. They work better than VR sensing. They are zero speed so it is easy to make static timing checks. I modify the shutter to make use of two timing edges, one is base time, the other max advance. For me it is easier to write code for advance, and less micro controller overhead, than multi tooth gear sensing. I control timing and fuel for each combustion event, including predictions based on rate of change.

On 2.2L Mopar 4 with turbo Hall distributors, a metal shutter wheel is used. One shutter tab has a window for sync. I use that for direct fire ignition and sequential ignition. The V8 magnum engine with 1/2 circle shutter Hall distributor, could be used if a new trigger wheel is fabricated..... I have not done that yet, but would be my plan if I ever plan to sell a Mopar engine management system with coil on plug ignition.
 
I forgot where I seen it but there was a guy using a newer jeep distributor that was cam signal only that had no distributor cap and billet looking, while using coil near plug. Was a very clean set up.
 
Mad Dart said:
I forgot where I seen it but there was a guy using a newer jeep distributor that was cam signal only that had no distributor cap and billet looking, while using coil near plug. Was a very clean set up.
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mopar action was doing just that with a big block but they haven't finished it as far as i know
 
1972_Demon said:
More progress.......

Air intake temp sensor mounted in air cleaner.





Pigtails everywhere........



Rear connection on fuel rails.



A little bit of massaging to the valve covers to clear the Super Victor intake.



I should be able to get the rest of the wiring completed tomorrow. Maybe even try to start it for the first time with the EFI.
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what kind of throttle/kickdown cables are you running ??

thanks don
 
Looks like I got most of my issues resolved. I will deal with the timing control later.

I have been tuning the past few nights driving around. Some around town and some full throttle pulls on the highway. I need to lean mine out on the top end a bit, but it runs pretty good now with just a couple hours driving.

The autotune feature for the warmup enrichment fixed my cold start with one try. I
started it today didn't touch the gas pedal at all and it cracked right over and idled.

I'll mess with the target A/F table and try out the autotune some more. I just wasn't hitting all the upper cells in the VE table for it to adjust everything. I made some manual adjustments to the table so I can give it another try tomorrow.
 
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