Engine and OD Transmission going in my 36 Pickup

[Saltcityslant]

Hi all,

I have just a few questions for the transmission community. Here are pictures of my Slant, which I am very confident came out of an automatic vehicle, although I can't be 100% sure. It's going into my 1937 dodge truck restoration project I am working on. Here is the OD bell housing that I purchased, as well as an A-833OD transmission. As far as these pictures show, do I have the correct machining for a pilot bushing in my crank? I know that I am going to need a 122 tooth flywheel with the proper register, as well as the 10" clutch assembly. I will be going with a hydraulic slave cylinder system; as I have to design and build the entirety of the rest of the truck, including my engine and transmission mounts. Not only that, but I figure that a modern hydraulic assembly will cause fewer problems in the long term. (If I am mistaken, please correct me.)

We are going with the OD transmission because the rear end has high gearing (3.55) and oversize rear tires. My goal is to have the truck at least make it down to Vegas from central Utah, and I don't want the thing pushing 5500 rpms at 70.

What, if anything, is likely to be difficult to overcome in this process, and what are some other parts that I will need to complete this build that will be difficult to either find or make?

Thanks very much for insight.

- M Classics

P.S. I have access to some machining tools, and am an experienced welder. Building a clutch fork or Z bar assembly, or modifying the bell housing in some way, will not be too extreme of a hurdle. I'm talking, impassable, need to change plans type of hurdles. I also have read about the 10" clutches going nuclear on the drag strip. We will not be beating on this truck, and it's being built for a super old guy. As long as freeway speeds won't blow it up, all is well.

 

[Dan Brewer]

Looks like it has a stock bushing, that is badly worn. I would remove the bushing and check the bore to make sure it's sized properly. Here are some hydraulic options: Select by Category - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission & Component Specialists

 

[Saltcityslant]

Looks like it has a stock bushing, that is badly worn. I would remove the bushing and check the bore to make sure it's sized properly. Here are some hydraulic options: Select by Category - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission & Component Specialists

View attachment 1716354421

Thanks for the quick response,

I see those kits from Brewers got the pedal assemblies as well, is the move to get the one with the full clutch bearing assembly? What would I need after that... Fork, pushrod at the end of the slave cylinder assembly, or does this function as that. I'm not sure what a hydraulic clutch bearing does.

Does anyone on here think I'll be alright with the 10" clutch for this application

 

[66fs]

Thanks for the quick response,

I see those kits from Brewers got the pedal assemblies as well, is the move to get the one with the full clutch bearing assembly? What would I need after that... Fork, pushrod at the end of the slave cylinder assembly, or does this function as that. I'm not sure what a hydraulic clutch bearing does.

Does anyone on here think I'll be alright with the 10" clutch for this application

10 in clutch will be fine. I run one behind a 273 high winder. You should never have a problem.

 

[JDMopar]

Your crank is set up to accept the 833OD. You just need to replace the pilot bushing. As long as the slant six is pretty much stock and not a twin turbo or something wild like that, the 10" clutch will be fine. There are hydraulic throwout bearings that don't even need forks. They just operate from a small master cylinder mounted on the firewall. Look over the Brewers website and maybe give @Dan Brewer a call. Top notch people to work with on anything 833.

 

[Saltcityslant]

10 in clutch will be fine. I run one behind a 273 high winder. You should never have a problem.

Thanks for the quick response. I'll have a go with it. Got any specific manufacturer recommendations?

I also believe that I need to get that 122 tooth flywheel to fit my specific crank register.

 

[Saltcityslant]

Your crank is set up to accept the 833OD. You just need to replace the pilot bushing. As long as the slant six is pretty much stock and not a twin turbo or something wild like that, the 10" clutch will be fine. There are hydraulic throwout bearings that don't even need forks. They just operate from a small master cylinder mounted on the firewall. Look over the Brewers website and maybe give @Dan Brewer a call. Top notch people to work with on anything 833.

Awesome. I'll measure it and get it on order right now. Yeah, we've got a big cam and a four barrel carb setup, but it's not much bigger grind than factory, and I'm not going to beat on it. I think I'll go with just that hydraulic kit then, sounds like a more reliable system. I appreciate the response, thanks. I'll get on the phone with the brewer folks and see what's up.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I would get the pilot bearing that fits into the crank register.

 

[JDMopar]

Ask Dan about the bigger clutch setup for the 122 tooth flywheel. He offers a slightly bigger one if it would give you piece of mind since the truck will be heavier than an old Dart or Valiant. Dan and his Dad Wayne know their stuff, so you will be in good hands.

 

[Saltcityslant]

I would get the pilot bearing that fits into the crank register

You're saying the pilot bushing? I don't follow

 

[Saltcityslant]

Ask Dan about the bigger clutch setup for the 122 tooth flywheel. He offers a slightly bigger one if it would give you piece of mind since the truck will be heavier than an old Dart or Valiant. Dan and his Dad Wayne know their stuff, so you will be in good hands.

Sounds like a plan, I sent em an email through their website earlier today.

I was reading about how the a833 have the 18 and 23 spline, that is for the input shafts, correct? So if I'm going with a 23 input it will have a 30 spline output? Do you all think that is too heavy duty for my application? I just want to make sure I get the right stuff on the way if I order one of the hydraulic throwouts.

Also once again, the responses on this forum are so helpful and I appreciate every one of you folks

 

[RustyRatRod]

You're saying the pilot bushing? I don't follow

No. I said pilot bearing.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I believe this is it. Call Brewer's to confirm.

PILOT ROLLER BEARING/ADAPTER - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission & Component Specialists

PILOT ROLLER BEARING/ADAPTER

www.brewersperformance.com

 

[Saltcityslant]

I believe this is it. Call Brewer's to confirm.

http://[URL][URL]https://www.brewersperformance.com/product/pb5300-pilot-roller-bearing-adapter/

[/URL][/URL]

Got it

This is one of the conversion kits to go from the pilot pushing to the pilot bearing, I don't believe that the slant had one from the factory, but I absolutely could be mistaken. Is this a better way to go?

 

[JDMopar]

Sounds like a plan, I sent em an email through their website earlier today.

I was reading about how the a833 have the 18 and 23 spline, that is for the input shafts, correct? So if I'm going with a 23 input it will have a 30 spline output? Do you all think that is too heavy duty for my application? I just want to make sure I get the right stuff on the way if I order one of the hydraulic throwouts.

Also once again, the responses on this forum are so helpful and I appreciate every one of you folks

The 23 spline 833OD you have will be plenty strong enough for your application. It won't be overkill either.....just right for what you want in my opinion. You don't sound like somebody who will be doing funny car burnouts or drifting....just a dude who wants to ride up and down the road enjoying the ride. Also, if your 833OD came out of a truck, it will have provisions on the tailshaft housing for 2 different shifter mounting locations. That could be a benefit when you decide where you want your shifter to poke thru the floor in the truck. If it does have the 2 locations for shifters, more likely than not, the rear most tabs for a shifter have not been drilled and tapped. Truck shifters used the front mounting tabs, which are in the same place as a B body. Roadrunner, Supebee, GTX, etc. The rear mount is in the same location as E bodies like Challengers and Cuda's. That pilot bearing Rob is talking about is a more modern version of a plain ol pilot bushing. Has a few benefits like being easier to install and not have to burnish the ID of a bearing when you drive it in. Nice upgrade that don't cost a lot!

 

[RustyRatRod]

Got it

This is one of the conversion kits to go from the pilot pushing to the pilot bearing, I don't believe that the slant had one from the factory, but I absolutely could be mistaken. Is this a better way to go?

The slant 6 had a bushing. The bearing I'm speaking about fits into the crankshaft register. It's personal preference. If you want to replace the bushing, just do that. Either way will work.

 

[MV8]

I suggest a slave and fork instead of a hydraulic release bearing. Easy to replace if it leaks and less trouble in my experience, plus you should enough room for it.

 

[Saltcityslant]

I suggest a slave and fork instead of a hydraulic release bearing. Easy to replace if it leaks and less trouble in my experience, plus you should enough room for it.

I'm just unsure if I will be able to find the correct ten inch clutch fork, I've done some digging on forums and Ebay and haven't been able to find one for some time. I do agree though it is a little bit more cost effective, I've got lots of experience with hydraulics so I'm not super concerned about leaks or getting the air out of the system.

Thanks for your input.