Engine Build Decision Help

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BubbaCuda

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I need some help making a decision on what i should build.I know we went through this before but all these recent threads on strokers making big torque have me undecided. The My car has factory air and would like to keep it. The car is not a daily driver, but a do drive about 12 miles each way to work twice a week. I don't care about the gas mileage even though i should. I would like to to take it down the track a couple times a year. Here is a list of what i have so far.

360 long block
770 Holley street avenger
Edelbrock RPM Air Gap intake
Melling HV oil pump
HV water pump
KB 107 from summit hopefully i still can return
MSD ignition 6AL
Summit SFI ext balance harmonic balancer
B&M ext balance flexplate
373 rear gears


What should I build? I want to drop the block off to the machine shop on Tuesday.
 
I'd say you're the one who has to decide how deep your wallet is, 'cause usually that is the most important factor. A good rebuilt 360 should be plenty for most street A-body cars but, if money is easier to get at your house than it is here, then a 426 CI small block would be more than anybody NEEDS and just fry the tires off of a car, if that strikes your fancy. A 408 or similar is what I've been leaning toward but, I'm still undecided also. My decision is whether I'm even wanna keep the Duster, or sell it and buy a Streetglide, for the wife to ride, when we travel.
 
Keep the Duster. Its nice having my wife as a backrest for the long rides on the road king..
I just want to build the motor without wondering if i should have stroked it..
Harold
 
hkeller said:
I need some help making a decision on what i should build.I know we went through this before but all these recent threads on strokers making big torque have me undecided. The My car has factory air and would like to keep it. The car is not a daily driver, but a do drive about 12 miles each way to work twice a week. I don't care about the gas mileage even though i should. I would like to to take it down the track a couple times a year. Here is a list of what i have so far.

360 long block
770 Holley street avenger
Edelbrock RPM Air Gap intake
Melling HV oil pump
HV water pump
KB 107 from summit hopefully i still can return
MSD ignition 6AL
Summit SFI ext balance harmonic balancer
B&M ext balance flexplate
373 rear gears


What should I build? I want to drop the block off to the machine shop on Tuesday.
Click to expand...

Standard Bore 360 Block
360 Heads with mild bowl work and 3 angle valve job
K107 Pistons
Comp Cams XE-268 .224/230@50 .477/.480
LD340
MSD Electronics
Holley 750DP
3" Dougs Headers into a 2.5" Flowmaster Delta 40's
Final compression goes out just above 9.5:1

Makes 350 hp and 400 ft lbs tq.
 
Stroke it! If you don't , you'll wish you did.

I was wondering about it too. I have a long thread here. The input I got back was positively, stroke it.
 
demon_kyle said:
Standard Bore 360 Block
360 Heads with mild bowl work and 3 angle valve job
K107 Pistons
Comp Cams XE-268 .224/230@50 .477/.480
LD340
MSD Electronics
Holley 750DP
3" Dougs Headers into a 2.5" Flowmaster Delta 40's
Final compression goes out just above 9.5:1

Makes 350 hp and 400 ft lbs tq.
Click to expand...
That sounds about right!
:read2:
 
If you aren't going for crazy HP or spinning a ton of RPM, a cast stroker crank will work fine. About 525 and 6500rpm is the break point. One of the guys I know has a cast 360 crank and shifts it at 7400.

Hey Kyle - 3" Dougs??? Maybe at the collector. The header tubes are 1 5/8". 8)
 
hkeller said:
should I go with a forged or cast crank?
Click to expand...

Cast crank is all that you will need if you stay around 500 hp or less. You will need some heads that flow some air for that stroker to breath. The only down side to the stroker is the extra cost to build it.
 
Agreed with what was said above. Cast crank should be fine. PHR built a 554 HP Magnum stroker with a cast crank with a redline of only 6000 rpms. So if you stay around 500 or less, you'll be ok.
 
I bought a Scat stroker kit with cast steel crank, forge I-beam rods, and forged KB step dish pistons. I paid extra to have Scat balance it internally. I then had my local shop go over it and it was a little off so they adjusted it. Yes you will need a neutral vibration damper and torque converter (or fly wheel) for an internal balance rotating assembly. If I were to do it over again I would buy the kit unbalanced and have a good local shop balance it. But you need to pick your local shop wisely (ask around for who does good work).

Usually when you buy a kit the components are matched so it can be internally balanced.
 
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