After fighting with an engine crane boom that's been 7"-8" to short for years I decided to make a new one. My problem has been with the engine crane legs beveled outward and the engine stand I like to us also having the legs beveled outward it makes it impossible to get the chain hook centered over the block with these two pieces of equipment. The original boom extension is only a 2ft. long piece of 2-1/2" x 3-1/2" 3/16" wall tubing. I've had the tube slide out so far that only 3" were inside the outer tube. Not safe at all, and still not far enough out for what I need it to be. I looked all over town and no one had this size tubing in stock, so I ended up ordering a piece off of Shapiro Metal Supply in St. Louis, MO. However they were advertising the metal I wanted cheaper on eBay than they were on their company website.
I ended up buying a 4 ft. piece of 2-1/2" x 3-1/2" .250" wall for less money than I could buy 3/16" wall tube anywhere else by $20.00 less.
Material ($89.76), sales tax ($9.36), and shipping ($44.00) Grand total $143.12 Steel Rectangular Tube - 2 1/2" x 3 1/2" x .250" x 48" | eBay
Now I might have to use some counterbalance on the other end of the crane depending on how far I need to pull it out.
I've never liked how most engine crane booms just have the chain hanging out of the tube, so I decided I was going to make this one a lot nicer looking. I cut a bevel on the bottom and then radiused out the corners. While I was at it I bought a 3/8" 316 Stainless Steel Jaw-Jaw Boat Anchor Swivel off of eBay for $15.00
3/8" 316 Stainless Steel Boat Anchor Connector Swivel Jaw - Jaw WLL 1,870 lb | eBay
It's rated working load is 1870# and breaking load of 7480# so it should be more than adequate for the intended use I need it for. Then I realized I needed to keep the chain centered and not wanting to take the time to machine some spacers I used some 3/8" stainless steel AN washers to accomplish that job. While I was at it I upgraded the bolt from a Grade 5 to a Grade 8 because the original bolt was to short to use a Nylock nut on. I still need to figure out spacers for inside the tube to keep the top of the chain centered, but I'll find something to use in there. Now all that's left is drop off the tube at the powder coaters and I'll be ready to start using this crane without the frustrations I've dealt with for years. If you've been in this boat, or are now in this boat here's the solution for you.
Tom
I ended up buying a 4 ft. piece of 2-1/2" x 3-1/2" .250" wall for less money than I could buy 3/16" wall tube anywhere else by $20.00 less.
Material ($89.76), sales tax ($9.36), and shipping ($44.00) Grand total $143.12 Steel Rectangular Tube - 2 1/2" x 3 1/2" x .250" x 48" | eBay
Now I might have to use some counterbalance on the other end of the crane depending on how far I need to pull it out.
I've never liked how most engine crane booms just have the chain hanging out of the tube, so I decided I was going to make this one a lot nicer looking. I cut a bevel on the bottom and then radiused out the corners. While I was at it I bought a 3/8" 316 Stainless Steel Jaw-Jaw Boat Anchor Swivel off of eBay for $15.00
3/8" 316 Stainless Steel Boat Anchor Connector Swivel Jaw - Jaw WLL 1,870 lb | eBay
It's rated working load is 1870# and breaking load of 7480# so it should be more than adequate for the intended use I need it for. Then I realized I needed to keep the chain centered and not wanting to take the time to machine some spacers I used some 3/8" stainless steel AN washers to accomplish that job. While I was at it I upgraded the bolt from a Grade 5 to a Grade 8 because the original bolt was to short to use a Nylock nut on. I still need to figure out spacers for inside the tube to keep the top of the chain centered, but I'll find something to use in there. Now all that's left is drop off the tube at the powder coaters and I'll be ready to start using this crane without the frustrations I've dealt with for years. If you've been in this boat, or are now in this boat here's the solution for you.
Tom
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