Engine Install with TTI Headers

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340sFastback

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I am getting ready to drop in my SB stroker. I plan to lay the TTI headers in the engine bay and have people help me get them in position as the engine/trans is lowered. I do plan to use blankets and/or towels to try and prevent scratches. Any advice on how to go about this process greatly appreciated, thanks,

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Before you get the engine anywhere near the engine bay check that the headers will bolt up to the head OK on the driver's side. I've just installed a set with Eddy heads and the headers would not clear the head just under the two centre exhaust ports. While it's still on the engine stand is the perfect time to fix any issues like this.
 
Yes, I am going to bolt the headers to the engine before it goes in. Make sure all the bolt holes are good etc.
 
Some info may help..

If you have the header bags still, re-wrap prior to install. (may help)

- The short piece could be a ***** around the torsion bar (slow going)

- make sure...
Depending...You "may" run into trouble with your trans cooling lines. The TTi are nice and tight around the oil pan where the lines run and come very close to the headers. "I" had to dryrun and bolt my trans to engine and re-route lines ensuring everything cleared.

Take it you got a mini starter? Due to the differance in size "I" didn't want my wires just passing through the header opening...so I ran a new ones "longer" runing down the firewall prior to install. Much cleaner.

Just a added note! Ensure everything "oil pan gasket" is correctly in place. Once these headers are in place there so tight you can only drop the pan about one inch until the pan lip catches on the header tubes. My rear pan seal was off just enough that I had a small leak and had to pull the headers and engine just to replace...however, once in you will love them!!
Good luck
PS Very nice car!!
 
I just re-did the oil pan gasket a day or two ago because it was not completely perfect. Much easier to do it now then later. I'll mock up the trans lines and prior to install and see if there are any issues.

I do have a mini starter. I'll look into the cables because I might want to go longer.
 
drop your centerlink, idler and pitman arms.

Steve, do I need to do that if I lay the headers in place and drop the engine in? I can pop them apart if need be but I thought laying them in place and dropping in they wouldn't need to be removed?
 
Steve, do I need to do that if I lay the headers in place and drop the engine in? I can pop them apart if need be but I thought laying them in place and dropping in they wouldn't need to be removed?

Bill, If Steve can't get back to ya..As I remember "yes" you will need that "extra" room for header/engine movement even if you are dropping the motor between them...You'll be suprized just how tight things are! Besides, it's better then banging or getting fustrated having to pull everything back out just to remove them.
PS It "also" makes getting your starter in alot EZer. (any room is a bonus...you'll see)
 
I tried this although didn't have much help and found that it was easier to install headers after engine was in place from the bottom per TTI instructions.

The torsion bars and streering as stated above will prevent you from bolting on engine and dropping in together.
 
I tried this although didn't have much help and found that it was easier to install headers after engine was in place from the bottom per TTI instructions.

The torsion bars and streering as stated above will prevent you from bolting on engine and dropping in together.

I heard of some guys doing that as well. I suppose it's just a *****/difficult getting the front end up about four feet + without a hoist.. Guess a guy could dig a hole..LOL
Each to their own, whatever works.
 
zandful may be right. i pulled my motor out with mi ttis still in the car with a bigger power steering unit, wondering if i should put it back the same way. i had trouble installing them from the bottom with my eddy heads extra mass, well the drives side one at least.
 
I've installed the tti headers on the engines that have gone into my duster several times,not once did i need to disconnect anything in the front steering i just laid the headers in the engine compartment,and drop the motor in bolted them up and done...
 
Steve, do I need to do that if I lay the headers in place and drop the engine in? I can pop them apart if need be but I thought laying them in place and dropping in they wouldn't need to be removed?


As Jimmy said, the more room the better. I do it just to get clearance especially in a freshly painted engine bay. It's easily taken off in about ten minutes. DO you have a pitman arm puller? If not, just rent one.
 
If that motor is not been broke in (new) TTI says that the warranty is void if you use TTI headers to break in the motor. When a fresh motor is ran for the first time it gets very hot and could damage the coating on your $700 headers. If you read the instructions that came with the headers you will see the statement. I ran my new motor with the old beat up Hookers to break it in, then removed them and installed the TTIs later. I hoisted the front of the car with a engine hoist and installed the TTI from the bottom up nothing to it. I just didn't want to take any chances.
 
i slapped my ttis in from the bottom with the front and rear as high as i could get it on jack stands. i had my engine and trans in the car...with trans mount attached. and jacked motor up as high as it could go. you can fit them in there. the pass side is easy...drivers side is a little bit of work. in my opinion (i have the nickle plated ttis) i just put the headers on and ran it. yeah they prolly shouldnt have gotten that hot, but my cousin has had his on his big block for 6 or so years and besides a little discoloration, they look good to me. alot of different opinions on here!
 
I've installed the tti headers on the engines that have gone into my duster several times,not once did i need to disconnect anything in the front steering i just laid the headers in the engine compartment,and drop the motor in bolted them up and done...

Stroked 340 is right and that's the way we've done it. But this time we've got a new tool. The hood is on and set and we don't have to remove it again.

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I decided to remove the steering linkage, install the engine/trans, and then install headers from the bottom. The driver's side header was difficult and would not go even with engine lifted. So we loosely put the nut on the passenger's side motor mount and lifted again then it went right in.

Trans line don't fit at all. Anyone have any pics of how they routed their lines around the headers/steering linkage/starter area?

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Also, I had to put a shim between the driver's side motor mount and k-frame in order to get the #7 tube off the k-frame (if you look closely you can see it in the above pic). Headers don't hit anything but steering linkage is not on yet. Looks like it will clear steering linkage though.
 
Motor from the bottom is my way of choice. Works slicker than a whistle.
Should be able to do it with headers bolted on.

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Love that green Dart!!

I didn't scratch any paint today; pretty happy about that!!
 
when I install my motor and trans at the same time should the starter be off or on.
Ps the header on the driver side is already in
 
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