Engine stalls when turning

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Did you tune/time using a vacuum gauge?
160 is too cold, change it up to 185-195
 
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Did you tune/time using a vacuum gauge?
160 is too cold, change it up to 185-195
I did tune it with a vacuum gauge
It's been running with a 160* stat for 4 years.
The car has A/C if I run a higher stat the car heats up very fast at slow speeds with the A/C on. This gives it a fighting chance.
That factory ran 160* stats in a lot of engines combinations with modern day oils it's not much of a problem.
I dont recommend it for everyone but for this iron head engine it works.
 
I did tune it with a vacuum gauge
It's been running with a 160* stat for 4 years.
The car has A/C if I run a higher stat the car heats up very fast at slow speeds with the A/C on. This gives it a fighting chance.
That factory ran 160* stats in a lot of engines combinations with modern day oils it's not much of a problem.
I dont recommend it for everyone but for this iron head engine it works.
All stock 67 and 68 ran 180 unless using alcohol type coolant. I run a 190 thermo in the Florida summer heat with a stock fan and water pump never an issue. I'm not sure how 160 is going to get proper heat saturation for effective combustion.
 
Does it dye quickly or sputter a bit ?
Sputtering sounds more fuel related...
Will any turn do it or only hard turns under braking ?
I intially assumed it was whenever you turned a corner .
 
Thoughts on adding a regulator and a return line.
My understanding is you can set the psi where you want it and it helps keep fuel cool under the hood.
 
Does it dye quickly or sputter a bit ?
Sputtering sounds more fuel related...
Will any turn do it or only hard turns under braking ?
I intially assumed it was whenever you turned a corner .
Yes - faster turns under braking.
Slow turns, normal braking - no problem
It does sputter then dies
 
So today 8/9/20
I opened up the mixture screws a full turn - rich and reset the idle at 900rpm That made the the stalling worse, barely made it home with the car. This pretty much proved to me that is getting to much fuel.
So I thought let's go back to the basics, for decades I have been setting idle screws to the highest idle rpm and then added 1/4 to 1/2 turn rich always seamed to work OK.
I went to Edelbrock's website and watched a video on tuning their AVS carb's.
They tell you to set the mixture screws for the highest idle rpm and the lean it 1/2 turn for "best lean idle". I said this cant right, lean it out?
So what the hell, give it try what do I have to lose at this point.
I set the mixture screws using Edelbrock's procedure and I'll dammed - no more stalling. You could have knocked me over with a feather.
I am still going to change out the fuel pump to bring the fuel pressure down to 6 psi at the carburetor.
Thanks to all who responded.
 
So today 8/9/20
I opened up the mixture screws a full turn - rich and reset the idle at 900rpm That made the the stalling worse, barely made it home with the car. This pretty much proved to me that is getting to much fuel.
So I thought let's go back to the basics, for decades I have been setting idle screws to the highest idle rpm and then added 1/4 to 1/2 turn rich always seamed to work OK.
I went to Edelbrock's website and watched a video on tuning their AVS carb's.
They tell you to set the mixture screws for the highest idle rpm and the lean it 1/2 turn for "best lean idle". I said this cant right, lean it out?
So what the hell, give it try what do I have to lose at this point.
I set the mixture screws using Edelbrock's procedure and I'll dammed - no more stalling. You could have knocked me over with a feather.
I am still going to change out the fuel pump to bring the fuel pressure down to 6 psi at the carburetor.
Thanks to all who responded.
So how is it now? Is it still fixed? I have a 1407 with the same issue.
 
So how is it now? Is it still fixed? I have a 1407 with the same issue.
Al, my set up was way to rich on the primary side.
Ended up drilling an .100 hole in each of the primary plates to lean it out.
That did the trick
 
Al, my set up was way to rich on the primary side.
Ended up drilling an .100 hole in each of the primary plates to lean it out.
That did the trick
It's Rob, but that's ok. You didn't call me "asshole" so most anything else is acceptable. LOL

Wow. Usually drilling the plates is extreme, although it does work. You don't think you could have leaned it out with the metering rods and springs and jets? So leaning the air screws didn't put an end to it? Did it help at all? Thanks for responding so quickly.
 
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Al, my set up was way to rich on the primary side.
Ended up drilling an .100 hole in each of the primary plates to lean it out.
That did the trick
It's Rob, but that's ok. You didn't call me "asshole" so most anything else is acceptable. LOL

Wow. Usually drilling the plates is extreme, although it does work. You don't think you could have leaned it out with the metering rods and springs and jets? So leaning the air screws didn't put an end to it? Did it help at all? Thanks for responding so quickly.
Rob, I tried every spring, jet and rod in the 1407 kit, and some others I had laying around. None of it worked. In fact, most of the time it got worse. Drilling was the only option.
Good luck.
 
Rob, I tried every spring, jet and rod in the 1407 kit, and some others I had laying around. None of it worked. In fact, most of the time it got worse. Drilling was the only option.
Good luck.
You must have a pretty long duration cam then.
 
I went out this morning, since I've put the 750 back on and looked at the step up springs. "SOMEHOW" last time I was in it, I put the plain springs in it. That's 8hg. So that means the metering rods weren't releasing until about 16hg and I'm not even sure this engine ever makes that much, so they were always on the rich step. How the hell I did THAT, I have no clue. General stupidness, I guess. So I put the blue 3hg springs in it, since it only has about 6hg at idle. We'll see what that does.
 
Well nothing I did made the Edelbrock run right so I put the Street Demon back on it.
 
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