Epoxy primer

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ir3333 said:
since my post has been resurrected i have been priming as work progresses. I have been using PPG CRE and weeks and even months later it sands beautifully. Sprays nice with a 1.7 tip and is very thick. I plan on using CRE for hi build as well for final blocking.
Reasonably priced and allows the use of one product start to finish!
Click to expand...
Where do you purchase the CRE? Local distributor?
 
ir3333 said:
Since my post has been resurrected here is an update. I have been priming as work progresses and using PPG CRE epoxy. Weeks and even months later it sands beautifully. Sprays nice with a 1.7 tip and is very thick. I plan on using CRE for hi build as well for final blocking.
Reasonably priced and allows the use of one primer product start to finish!
Click to expand...
Can you build CRE up like a high build primer? If not I would think it won't be useful for blocking unless your car is very straight. I just bought a good epoxy primer and then run of the mill high build to go over top. Most of it gets sanded off and then it gets sealed anyway.
 
Like most people I hava always heard the saying, stay with one paint co. products all the way thru, for obvious reasons. But I admit after 40 odd years doing my own cars. just mine as I am NO pro!!!! and you old not pay me to do someones car. I have used epoxy primers, urethane primers, poly primers, from SPI. PPG, DuPont, TCP Global, Evercoat and then topoats from TCP Global, PPG, DuPont all mixed and whatever. I 99% of the time topcoat with single stage and only time I cleared it came from SPI over a PPG single stage/ I guess I like adventure!? Go figure??
 
When I mention SPI epoxy is sandable I am referring to IF the time spam has passed and it needs a scuff before going on as to the next step for me is in high build urethane or a poly primer.

For those that don't know, epoxy primer is great because of its ability to stick to darn near anything ( even cat chit??), it is so tough, a great sealer, plus reduced it is used as a sealer over the snading primers before topcoat.
 


These guys use PPG VP2050 it is quite expensive.CRE is the same PPG product but much cheaper.
I think Mark Worman and many hi end shops also have gone to VP2050 start to finish. 2 or 3 coats will provide
a very thick surface for final blocking. It also dries with a lo luster so you can see any short comings in
your bodywork. Try it on a fender or door to see if it suits you first.
 
Tamco and SPI seem popular. I can't even get most of the products talked about on the forums and FB groups.
 
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