Exhaust leak through carb????

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Years ago i remember having to retorque the fel pro gaskets. Put torque wrench on today and they were still where I torqued them when I built the engine
 
You wont know with 100%certainty what's wrong until you dive in. What the machine shop says and what reality is might be two different things. There is a correct head and block finish for different head gaskets.
 
Hopefully since it just started acting up today I can get by with replacing gaskets and didn't burn up the
 
Agreed. But it's pretty depressing spending good money on heads, machine shop labor and name brand parts to build a mild street motor,after building several 8000 rpm motors that are running 20 years later and have failures
 
Dartish said:
Hopefully since it just started acting up today I can get by with replacing gaskets and didn't burn up the
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I would never "TRY" to plan on just slappin gaskets on and go. You don't want to do it a third time. If it was mine, I would be going over that whole thing with a magnifying glass to find out what went wrong, so it does not make a repeat performance. Just my personal opinion.
 
Dartish said:
I can throw a new gasket in, but I'm wondering why it won't just blow the new one. Machine shop said the block deck and heads we're fine and would hold the gasket just fine. Especially the fel pros and the low compression pistons
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Could be burnt exhaust valves. Steel or Aluminum heads?
 
They're iron 360 heads. The Aero Heads from Indy with stainless 2.02 1.60 valves and about 5kmiles. Would love to go over everything with a fine tooth comb. I've got this coming week off, but this is my only vehicle, and there are lots of people on welfare counting on me to go to work, so unfortunately I'm gonna have to tear the heads off and hope I find just a bad gasket.
 
the regular blue felpro blue are no better than any other cheap gasket . your head gasket troubles will stop with the 1008's . the chances of burning 2 exhaust valves side by side at the same time is nill to none . use the 1008's .
 
Yeah I'm pretty confident it's the head gasket too. They were the blue fel pro gaskets that came in the fel pro/sealed power/federal mogul gasket set.lol What are the 1008s you're talking about? Are those the severe duty gaskets?
 
I was having head gasket problems in 97 using Detroit head gaskets I was told about the 1008's and I never had a failure since .they are a severe duty and race at 0.39 thick .
 
Where did you get them? What kinda price? I was looking at the fel pro severe duty at $30 each but no one around has them in stock. Don't really care about cost as long as they're good and I can get a set this week. Sooner the better
 
Dartish said:
They're iron 360 heads. The Aero Heads from Indy with stainless 2.02 1.60 valves and about 5kmiles. Would love to go over everything with a fine tooth comb. I've got this coming week off, but this is my only vehicle, and there are lots of people on welfare counting on me to go to work, so unfortunately I'm gonna have to tear the heads off and hope I find just a bad gasket.
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The reason I asked is I also have a set of J heads that was giving me the same issue. No compression and leak down sounded like exhaust. It was building crank case pressure and it had the squirts! Pissed off I had no choice, tare it down. I was hoping it was the head gasket too. but it wasn't swappin spit with the oil/water witch pointed me to the valves/rings. Pulled the head and all appeared to be normal no bad gasket. keep in mind the EGR port in the steel heads have threads in them from the intake and exhaust (small hole, U-shape hole) next to #3 & #5 exhaust valves. Spark plug told me lean. It had fried the exhaust valves and collapsed the lifters. Even if you seal the threads on the intake bolts its possible to get a lean burn condition over time. I want to fill those stupid holes but reading more about them they do have some purpose after the egr is gone other than a carb nut catcher. Im gonna block them.
 
I don't have an egr valve or even a place for one on the intake. The heads are 75 castings and just have the standard heat crossover which I blocks a month ago when I put the torker 340 on. I'm not saying it isn't possible and I appreciate your input alot, but I've never seen 2 stainless each valves burn up after running for a couple minutes in the morning. I noticed this morning on way to work blowing a lot of steam out driver side pipe. Tearing it off tomorrow so Il know the rest of the story as they say. Hopefully won't take me a week to get a good set of gasket. All the parts stores here stock are the cheap blue ones I've got now
 
I agree with you. Water thru the pipes. I ordered a set of the 521SD's I hope the thickness doesn't mess with the compression but .010 across 8 can make a difference. I also have a Torker 340. The mess it leaves under the carb at 3,5-4,6. I didn't have the gaskets that covered the U. There has to be a reason why I had to tare down other than shitty lifter or bad wires/plugs

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Fixitman33 said:
I agree with you. Water thru the pipes. I ordered a set of the 521SD's I hope the thickness doesn't mess with the compression but .010 across 8 can make a difference. I also have a Torker 340. The mess it leaves under the carb at 3,5-4,6. I didn't have the gaskets that covered the U. There has to be a reason why I had to tare down other than shitty lifter or bad wires/plugs

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I've always put a lil rtv on all the intake bolts or oil will seep up through. Any idea how thick the 521sd gaskets are?those are what I'm looking at getting. Can have them overnighted
 
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