few random questions on 318 build

[zinser72]

first off, thanks for all the help lots of you have already given me. im wrapping up my build and just have a few loose ends to figure out.

build is 318 stock stroke forged crank, scat 4340 i beams with ARP bolts, kb 167 pistons, 9.7:1 cr (.039 quench) with RHS LA-X heads fully ported, 2.02 intakes. also comp XE285HL cam, hyd flat with .545 lift and something like 240 dur @ .050 and 110 lsa. eddy air gap with holley 750 dp mech secondaries. full oiling mods have been done as outlined in Guitar Jones's thread (thanks by the way, very very helpful) it will be getting 93 octane only

questions:

1. what spark plugs and what gap should i run? indexing worth it?



2. what initial and mech advance timing should i run? i should cap vac advance right? or what should total advance be if not?



3. oil recommendation? im not loyal to anything i just dont wanna blow it up!



4. after i break in the cam and put the inner valve springs back in cant i just drive it normally on the street and get on it without worry?


5. also what do you think of the combo? it will be street, strip and road race motor for my duster 4 spd. mostly street time though. forged pistons werent in the budget (neither was a roller cam), i know i gotta be careful with the ones i have but they should be fine.


thanks guys this website has been a life saver alreadyrayer:rayer:rayer:

 

[forphorty]

Couple of things in your build i would reconsider. A 240 at .050 cam in a 318 will pull to 7000. That's pushing the limits of a hydraulic lifter. 7000 is also probably pushing the safe limits of those hyper pistons. That cam is also going to want a lot of gear. I would suggest a solid cam and forged pistons, or a smaller hyd cam. Spark plugs: anything but platinum. .035-.040 gap, indexing is a waste of time. About 20 initial,35 total. Oil? something with alot of zinc. I use Rotella , but its zinc content is not as high as it once was.

 

[1970Duster]

I use Mobil 1 full syn after break in but I have a full roller setup in my 340 so that zinc additive crap is a non issue for me :twisted:
Also if you haven't done any machine work to the block, go to the junkyard and pull a late 80s/early 90s LA roller block 318 you'll be money ahead that way. Remember a roller cam will bring you into the power curve sooner and keep you there longer then a flat tappet cam will. I'd also use the milodon road race oil pan, it holds 6 qts and sits above the k member (I have one on my 340).

 

[zinser72]

thanks guys, i cant go to a roller cam although i really want to. im thinking that i will just keep the rpm down to 7000 just to be safe. i have that cam because that is what one of their techs recommended to me. i agree it seems a little aggressive for hyd flat but thats what an "expert" said i needed and i'll be the first to admit i dont know everything. so i trusted them and the cam is sitting in my garage.

what happens if i go past that limit on a hydraulic lifter? will power just fall off or will i actually break something?? how do i know where the limit is?

 

[zinser72]

I use Mobil 1 full syn after break in but I have a full roller setup in my 340 so that zinc additive crap is a non issue for me :twisted:
Also if you haven't done any machine work to the block, go to the junkyard and pull a late 80s/early 90s LA roller block 318 you'll be money ahead that way. Remember a roller cam will bring you into the power curve sooner and keep you there longer then a flat tappet cam will. I'd also use the milodon road race oil pan, it holds 6 qts and sits above the k member (I have one on my 340).

block is already being machined so too late on that ops: as for the oil pan i have a kevko stock location 5 qt so total capacity will be 6 and i plan to run a 3 qt oil accumulator on top of that. hopefully she doesnt starve!