First the horn started blowing on its own, Then the starter cranks when you push the clutch in! wtf help!!!!!!!!

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A little back story on any electrical work that you've performed recently may help get you some input.
 
Pictures? If all you put in is a battery then start there. Grounds and connections are a good starting point.
Very tough to diagnose properly thru internet.
 
Gremlins!

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I've had my clutch linkage short wires in the starter harness. I'd start by disconnecting the battery and then looking over all the harness for damage starting from the battery and working to the firewall.
 
I'm sure it's the fact that you're running a Chevy engine with Ford wiring in a Mopar vehicle. It's probably got a little something to do with it being mixed years from 1930 all the way to 1980.

If you don't get the hint, maybe just maybe you could tell us what the FRIG kinda car you have and give us all the details.
 
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RustyRatRod said:
I'm sure it's the fact that you're running a Chevy engine with Ford wiring in a Mopar vehicle. It's probably got a little something to do with it being mixe years from 1930 all the way to 1980.

If you don't get the hint, maybe just maybe you could tell us what the FRIG kinda car you have and give us all the details.
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I gave up pulling teeth. :lol:
 
Goldust1971 said:
1971 duster 360 4 speed 225 car converted in 2004
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^ That helps a lot!

It sounds like melted or chaffed (bared) wires from the engine harness bulkhead on the inside of the car. Look at the wires where the bulkhead connector enters the interior through the firewall. If you have an ammeter also make sure the connections are good there and it's not shorting as well. That's all I got.
 
If I was going to throw darts, it would be steering column.

The right way is at this point is to disconnect the battery and test for cross wire short if there is nothing visually obvious.
Yours is not a short to ground, its a cross wire short. I don't know what instrument cluster or what mods have been made, etc but this should get you going.
'71 Horn relay is probably in the instrument harness as shown here. So unlike earlier cars, blowing the horn with the engine off will show on the ammeter. It also means the horn circuit is protected by the fusible link.
Not sure what, if any switch is on the clutch. If there is none- then the issue has to do with wires moving.

www.forabodiesonly.com

Short to ground. Please help!

Hello everyone, I have a 1971 Dart I'm slowly restoring. I was attempting to restore the functions of the blinkers(new switch and flasher), when I realized I had a short to ground from the turn signal circuits. Front, rear, left, and right all short to ground. What is odd to me is that the...
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FWIW my horn staying on turned out to be melted wires at the bulkhead connector inside the car. The battery feed wire runs next to the horn wire and the battery feed wire started to melt and fused to it keeping the horn on. My fusible link went soon after and the problem was created at the ammeter.

Mattax said:
If I was going to throw darts, it would be steering column.

The right way is at this point is to disconnect the battery and test for cross wire short if there is nothing visually obvious.
Yours is not a short to ground, its a cross wire short.
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My recommendation is this. FIND the steering column connector. Get familiar with RIGHT where it is. LEARN how to wiggle it back and forth and disconnect it QUICKLY. Once you have that mastered, the next time it starts acting crazy, get under there and unplug that connector fast. This will tell you at least if "something" in the column wiring is the cause. If it stops doing it when you unplug that connector you know it's in the column wiring. You will have eliminated a LOT right off the bat.
 
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