First timer. 4 speed rebuild issues

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I take it she makes some noise in second now & then? Does your shifter have adjustable stops? With the side cover off the syncro hub can be moved more than needed to a little bit. The stops keep the hubs from over extending when
 
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didn't have any problems besides grinding into second on hard shifts. haven't put it back in the car yet.
 
So long as you blocker rings are in good shape & running correct oil make sure your shifter stops are adjusted so when you complete the shift the stops are what the shift levels bottom out on. Not over eextending the shift fork/hub. Thats whats nice about the competition plus shifters.
 
i just got off the phone with brewers. he confirmed exactly what you're saying. the shift forks/stops limit the amount of travel. still going to take it apart to double check that the key is on both hub springs.
 
didn't even need to take it apart. shifted it into first. took a flat head and moved the key over. its in the spring.
 
Back up the bus guys
That is an overshift alright, ;
1) are the two special long-shoulder bolts in the correct cover-holes? Take a look at your case on the two vertical mounting rails. you will see two counter-bored holes,one on each rail at about the center;to receive the long-shoulder bolts. If someone failed to install them there, then the cover could be misaligned and anything can happen.
2) And while the shifter may attempt to overshift, the internal detent stops in the side cover are supposed to prevent that. So the 70 and older cover have the interlock pin with the two balls and spring.Go take a look at your cover. If you have this early cover, shift the front lever into either gear, then attempt a shift into 2nd.Firstly it should be impossible and secondly, the lever should just perceptibly move.If that is how yours is working, then the problem is not in the cover.But,if you get two gears the pin is missing,and if you get more than a few thou movement, then the pin is too short.The later cover has a roostercomb interlock.They are almost never trouble.
3) Next grab the output shaft, and attempt to move it into the tranny and attempt to yank it out the back. There should be ZERO back and forth movement. If it moves, there is a problem in the bearing or in it's locating system. Be rough with it. ZERO movement is what you are looking for.
4) So once that is also proved ok, then you have to look to the brass rings. If they sit too low on the cone-clutches, then I have seen the struts pop out on the backside, making it impossible to backshift when the assy is spinning. Sometimes after the driveshaft stops turning, then you may, or may not, be able to backshift.
5) If those are ok then you need to look to the geartrain end play. But that almost never needs adjusting.
8) the spring is in no way responsible for this.NO WAY AT ALL.
 
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Back up the bus guys
That is an overshift alright, ;
1)are the two special long-shoulder bolts in the correct cover-holes? Take a look at your case on the two vertical mounting rails. you will see two counter-bored holes to receive the long-shoulder bolts. If these are not in there, then the cover could be misaligned and anything can happen.

1a.) I never put the side cover on. Just checking to make sure it went into each gear. I do have the correct bolts though.



2)And while the shifter may attempt to overshift, the internal detent stops in the side cover are supposed to prevent that. So the 70 and older cover have the interlock pin with the two balls and spring.Go take a look at your cover. If you have this early cover, shift the front lever into either gear, then attempt a shift into 2nd.Firstly it should be impossible and secondly, the lever should just perceptibly move.
If that is how yours is working, then the problem is not in the cover.

2b) I do have the early style cover. I will try that after work.


3)Next grab the output shaft, and attempt to move it into the tranny and attempt to yank it out the back. There should be ZERO back and forth movement. If it moves, there is a problem in the bearing or in it's locating system. Be rough with it. ZERO movement is what you are looking for.

3c.)It doesn't move at all. I seen a picture of the different style snap ring and thought I put mine in wrong. not the case its the old style.
"If you have an A-Body, a pre-70 B-Body 23-spline trans, or a 66-67 18-spline, the rear bearing is a 307, and the snap-ring needs to be squeezed together to remove the shaft. The 70-and-up B- and E-Body trannies, and the 68-and-up 18-spline trannies have the 308 rear bearing. the snap-ring needs to be expanded to remove the shaft."


4)So once that is also proved ok, then you have to look to the brass rings. If they sit too low on the cone-clutches, then the slider will carry the struts too far forward and then they pop out on the backside, making it impossible to backshift when the assy is spinning. Sometimes after the driveshaft stops turning, then it may or may not backshift.

4d.) Brand new kit from brewers. The old ones were shot and doing exactly this.


5) the spring is in no way responsible for this.

5f.) Thank You.
 
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