Floor Coatings Questions

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Hyper_pak

Hyper_pak

Old School Chrysler Fan
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I have a brand new garage.
Do you guys use epoxy coating on the floor to control spills?
Sealant?
Looking for advice.
Thanks
 
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I used Ballistix its UV rated heat resistant to 1200 degrees I believe, mildew resistance. This stuff looks great here is before an after.

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://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjSuI214d-AAxUKFzQIHbSXCykQFnoECDYQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.supplyndesign.com%2Fproduct%2Fballistix-squire%2F&usg=AOvVaw3f_kclhXgTRH72yrFUG95n&opi=89978449
 
Thats not a garage, it a basketball court!(Not that I have much room to talk. I just have the gray epoxy paint. It resists stains, but not chips so much.
 
Hyper_pak said:
I have a brand new garage.
Do you guys use epoxy coating on the floor to control spills?
Sealant?
Looking for advice.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Lets see your garage, Stan! I'm interested in what you choose, because I need to seal mine for moisture seepage.
 
Rusty, they put down a vapor barrier, so I don't think I will have moisture issues.
Worried more about everything I spill.
OCD.
Here are a couple of pictures.
They got the roof on yesterday.
It's been so hot in Texas they stop working at 12 because the steel is too hot to touch.
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I was reading about epoxy, might not be the best for me.
I use a lot of jack stands also.
 
You want it to look pretty or are going to work on it. I used an epoxy paint on fresh concrete with a sealant as per instructions, this how it looks after 6 years. On another garage I just used a silicone-based sealant about 160.00@5 gallons and used a window type squeegee to spread it on.

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This is the chassis dyno. It is urethane. We put chips on super heavy until they were laying on top of chips that were stuck in the base color. We vacuumed off excess chips after it dried and scraped it. Then clear coat. Takes more clear to do it this way. Has a bit of a textured finish but sweeps up nice.

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This is the engine dyno after about 10 years. We just sprinkled on the flakes in the base color to get the look we wanted then cleared. The spot where it pealed up is where a down pointing header pipe got it too hot. Lesson learned. I think I like how the chassis dyno came out better.
It hides dirt real good but also makes it hard to find little parts like clips from carburetors when you drop them on the floor.

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RustyRatRod said:
That looks real nice, Stan. What size is it?
Click to expand...
It's only 26 W, 32 D.
Big enough for the trailer (HOA PIA).
One side for everything else.
It really wanted a stick built brick exterior, but it was more per sq ft than my house!
Steel is not cheaper, but it was what I can afford now in my old age.
 
Hyper_pak said:
It's only 26 W, 32 D.
Big enough for the trailer (HOA PIA).
One side for everything else.
It really wanted a stick built brick exterior, but it was more per sq ft than my house!
Steel is not cheaper, but it was what I can afford now in my old age.
Click to expand...
That's about the same size mine is......and I wish I had gone twice the size. Maybe some day.
 
I used some of the 2-part epoxy from Rustoleum with a coat of their 2-part epoxy clear (with anti-slip grit) on garage floor when I moved into my house in 2009. The parts near the garage doors that see sun have yellowed a little, but the rest looks good as new when it's clean. It does make wiping up spills a breeze and I'd do it again in a heart beat.
 
Don’t use the stuff from HD or Lowes, it will not hold up to jack stands, dragging things across it, and such the like. Mine was tore up in less than a few years using the $400 stuff from HD. My neighbor had his shot peen blasted, and epoxied and sanded, Cody him about $1600, but it’s wearing like iron. You get what you pay for. Mine is 28x36, and I epoxied it right away after the concrete cured.
 
cosgig said:
Don’t use the stuff from HD or Lowes, it will not hold up to jack stands, dragging things across it, and such the like. Mine was tore up in less than a few years using the $400 stuff from HD. My neighbor had his shot peen blasted, and epoxied and sanded, Cody him about $1600, but it’s wearing like iron. You get what you pay for. Mine is 28x36, and I epoxied it right away after the concrete cured.
Click to expand...

Did you prep the surface?? I think I got my stuff from Kelly Moore, but I'm pretty sure it's the same stuff as at Lowes. I drag all kinds of stuff across it and it hasn't scratched at all.

I wasn't worried about scratches anyway though - it's a garage, not a showroom.
 
Hey Stan that looks awesome!! Garage space is the ticket.
 
mopowers said:
Did you prep the surface?? I think I got my stuff from Kelly Moore, but I'm pretty sure it's the same stuff as at Lowes. I drag all kinds of stuff across it and it hasn't scratched at all.

I wasn't worried about scratches anyway though - it's a garage, not a showroom.
Click to expand...
Yes I did. Acid washed it, rinsed it down like a madman, let it dry for a couple days. I did it exactly according to the directions. To the subject at hand, I work in my garage, and don’t baby the floor, it’s not a showroom. However, if I were to have the same floor as my neighbor has, there would be little to no damage at all.
 
Hyper_pak said:
Rusty, they put down a vapor barrier, so I don't think I will have moisture issues.
Worried more about everything I spill.
OCD.
Here are a couple of pictures.
They got the roof on yesterday.
It's been so hot in Texas they stop working at 12 because the steel is too hot to touch.
View attachment 1716128452

View attachment 1716128453

View attachment 1716128454
Click to expand...

Your line about the vapour barrier is key to reduce the amount of moisture the concrete will absorb from the ground. I also had a vapour barrier put down before the floor in my garage was poured. My builder didn’t plan on it originally (detached garage) and didn’t convince me otherwise when I requested it. I know in eastern Canada it’s required as a radon gas barrier. However in my case I just didn’t want the ugly moisture spots on the floor over time.
 
My shop just has the clear sealer on the concrete, that you roll on with a roller. It's hard to tell it's there these days because the shop was built in 2007. Plus it's full...lol. Downside to that type sealer is that if you spill gas on it, or lacquer thinner, it eats the sealer and makes a sticky spot.
 
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