Flowtech Header Issues Small Block

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krw340

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I was getting ready to install my headers and I put a straight edge across the ports and the left side is straight all the way across but the right side I have about 1/8" gap. Should I bolt them down and hope they will seal ? I tried getting ahold of Flowtech but no luck by phone. Does anyone have an email address for Flowtech ? Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Cheap headers are cheap headers, but they are supposed to be better than that. Send them back.
 
I purchased these headers from Amazon December 5th. Had to return them because the collectors, bolts, and gaskets were missing. I wanted them to just send me the missing parts but I guess that's not how they do business ! My point is I didn't get the replacement headers until March ! :protest:
To contact Flowtech by phone during regular business hours is just about impossible for me. Waiting 5 minutes listening to a machine to be told there is a 20 minute wait time before your call is answered really pisses me off ! With all the technology these days you'd think that all these after market parts would fit ! It's such a waist of time when I have to return parts or modify parts like headers, starters, oil pans, intake manifolds, and torque converters just to name a few, that don't work like they are supposed too.
 
Abodybomber said:
I would contact them,before attempting to mount it. If you got them from Jegs or Summit, I would contact them first.Anyway,email Addy for Flowthch:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...vvV_FoQ-ExVxC5pBw&sig2=lR43sl_KOaAou6jHewi9uA
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I've been to this link. Did you look at the form they want you to fill out to get a response from them by email? No where in there does it mention anything about headers. Its all carb stuff. Not sure if Holley makes Flowtech headers now or what ? Funny thing is I did call this number about a carb I'm interested in and I did leave them a message. They did return my call but I was working and couldn't answer my phone.
 
krw340 said:
With all the technology these days you'd think that all these after market parts would fit ! It's such a waist of time when I have to return parts or modify parts like headers, starters, oil pans, intake manifolds, and torque converters just to name a few, that don't work like they are supposed too.
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Welcome to the great aftermarket parts scam.. Cut costs by not finishing the part correctly and expecting the customer to finish it off. Then make it as hard as you can for a customer to contact you. Stay away from faceless online resellers like Amazon, because it can be a minefield when something goes wrong.
 
I've said this so many times -- summit will price match !!
One time they even found the part "on amazon" cheaper than I did !??
I was kind of dummfounded - aaaaaa- okay send it :cheers:
 
How much cheaper was Amazon than Summit......I mean really?
 
on my wide band o2 sensor summit wanted $ 209 and I found it online for $153 and then summit found it for $149 and again who was I to argue. but like you're saying Triple R I couldn't imagine the headers being more than $5 difference. I found summit to be extremely easy to get a hold of and even easier was having to send stuff back or something.
 
dano said:
File it flat. Pretty come with a lot of headers
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Have a good look at it, your not going to file that back. I'd say it would be quite common on cheap junk headers, that's why you don't buy them, especially online.
 
If your headers weren't already coated, I would say cut the flanges. That would fix it. I chopped the flanges completely off my Dougs except for around the ports. Knocked off over a pound. Headers are also easier to install with the flanges gone. Especially the LH side. Less likely to snag on things when trying to slip them in place. Imo, it's not a good idea to buy cheap headers already coated. Better to buy the uncoated versions, install them, make necessary adjustments/modifications( because cheap headers almost always need at least a ding or two), remove and have coated locally if possible. I feel your pain. I installed a poor fitting set of Heddmans on a 318 Duster a few years ago. My experience is mostly with big block B bodies and header installations on them was always much easier, even with cheap headers.
 
forphorty said:
If your headers weren't already coated, I would say cut the flanges. That would fix it. I chopped the flanges completely off my Dougs except for around the ports. Knocked off over a pound. Headers are also easier to install with the flanges gone. Especially the LH side. Less likely to snag on things when trying to slip them in place. Imo, it's not a good idea to buy cheap headers already coated. Better to buy the uncoated versions, install them, make necessary adjustments/modifications( because cheap headers almost always need at least a ding or two), remove and have coated locally if possible. I feel your pain. I installed a poor fitting set of Heddmans on a 318 Duster a few years ago. My experience is mostly with big block B bodies and header installations on them was always much easier, even with cheap headers.
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I have used Hooker, Hedman, TTI, Pacemaker and flow Tech on different engines. They have all needed work to fit right. Don't take any notice of Bakerlight, he has only ever used second hand headers anyway!
:D
 
sr440 said:
I have used Hooker, Hedman, TTI, Pacemaker and flow Tech on different engines. They have all needed work to fit right. Don't take any notice of Bakerlight, he has only ever used second hand headers anyway!
:D
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I like them well broken in..
 
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