Found a decent paint for less than a mil ?

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68coupe said:
Here's the International Harvester red from Tractor Supply. I used the acrylic catalyst with a naptha reducer. It went on easy, dried slick, seems to be holding the shine pretty well.
It's a good paint for tractors, lawnmowers, trailers and such. I wouldn't want to use it for the car.
My neighbor used TSC black for a guide coat and ended up with bubbles all over his truck! That's probably the incompatability issue everyone's talking about.

I bought some Nason single-stage at O'reilleys for the car trunk and engine compartment. I may use it for the rest of the car - can't decide. It's not cheap! $50 a qt.
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That tractor looks awesome I bet you have over 2000 hrs+ in that resto.
 
adiffrentcity said:
Just a thought, if you decided to go over the TSC paint later, using a waterborn sealer may not give you a reaction problem. And the paint is cheap enough that if you bought like a pint you could do a test panel and then in a few months sand it and try painting with a BC/CC system just to see.
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Oil and water don't mix well. lol Been there trying to paint over it using waterborn primer. if you can get through applying the paint without issue, what you create is a hard paint surface over a product that never really fully hardens. All these materials expanding and contracting at different rates in the sun. The better paint won't last . Delaminate, crack, blister comes to mind. Now you have a bigger mess cause the alkyd still needs off. Alkyd enamels are more of a protective coating than appearance coating, they cure softer if ever and have their place. Even the alkyd/synthetic enamels made for auto as well as un-catalyzed acrylic enamels can be tricky to refinish over. If the end goal is to put a nice paint job on it why put something you have to take back off on it. You'd have more $$ in sandpaper, primer and time than the $50 cost difference of a catalyzed acrylic which you can scuff and shoot over.
 
He said the TSC paint was hardened, I thought the water primer would overcome the tendency of it to absorb solvent out of the topcoat. Never would've thought it didn't reach a full cure. Either way if he can afford the difference go for it.
 
all the paint pros I know always recommend staying with same brand for all primers and paint. I have mixed co. but maybe lucky too!
I would leave water based stuff along until the gov't shoved it down my tonsils!???
the tractor enamels; their durability in regard to sunlight is the thing??
the paint pros I know all recommend using the less expensive primers/sealers ( if ya have to cut corners), but use as good as topcoat as you can afford.
sometimes its best to just take a pill and cure that case of "perfectidis"!??? LOL makes a difference if you actually drive it and get a gravel peck/scratch, or enshrine it!??? LOL
 
barbee6043 said:
all the paint pros I know always recommend staying with same brand for all primers and paint. I have mixed co. but maybe lucky too!
I would leave water based stuff along until the gov't shoved it down my tonsils!???
the tractor enamels; their durability in regard to sunlight is the thing??
the paint pros I know all recommend using the less expensive primers/sealers ( if ya have to cut corners), but use as good as topcoat as you can afford.
sometimes its best to just take a pill and cure that case of "perfectidis"!??? LOL makes a difference if you actually drive it and get a gravel peck/scratch, or enshrine it!??? LOL
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I agree 100%. LOL

I've been researching modern paints for about a year and a half now. One thing is consistently consistent. Stay with the system you start with! If you start with Sherwin-Williams, stay with Sherwin-Williams. If you start with PPG, stay with PPG. And so on.

Just about all of the professionals I have talked to have recommended epoxy primer. If you do BC/CC, base doesn't matter so much, but get the best clear you can afford. Mainly for UV protections and fade resistance. They also recommended using sealer coats. One guy told me that he always used epoxy primer reduced as much as possible as a sealer. He also told me that he never painted over dry paint without scuffing. He paints the sealer, base, and clear wet.

I'm no expert by a long shot! The more I learn about modern painting, the less I know!
 
I agree with what you have been told too, 68 coupe. there is an abundance of small shops and i'm not bashful about stopping in and meeting them and I always ask a few questions. first thing i tell them , even though I look like a millionaire i'm NOT! i'm a do it yourselfer, and a tight a-- to boot! being I'm an old fart, they usually open up and love to talk of their trade.
the epoxy primer with the reducer, I do that, because every painter I see does it too! yes, putting on the stuff wet eliminates scuffing. some people are sanding nerds and sand the heck out of everything.
I do enjoy learning about things I have interest in, and being paying for paint work isn't hardly on my plate, I try to learn all I can.
 
Hey Barbee6043, Are you sure we're not long lost brothers?
 
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