Found this 8.75 in my buddy's yard

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Quinton Castle

Quinton Castle

MOPAR OR NO CAR
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Found this 8 3/4 in my buddy's yard under a trailer frame. I'm gonna pick it up from him tomorrow but I have worries. First of all it's a early pre 65 rear and all though it does have 741 chunk in it it has the tapered axles. I have seen guys a guy swap them to the non tapered axles on forbbodiesonly.com and wanted to knk if anyone has ever done this in the a body world. I will be putting it under my 73 duster which has a 7 1/4 under at the moment.
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This is the end result of his swap
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It's a wider rear end so you might end up with a strange offset on your wheels to make it work
 
IT requires different housing ends because the bearings are different, so you may as well narrow it to the stock early A body width, since you're going to need new ends.
 
I put a 64 b body rear in my 73 dart sport years ago. You can use green bearings with later style axles with the early housing ends. The studs on the axle housing flange will need to be replaced with slightly longer studs. Get some later style 10 or 11 inch backing plates and drums and you are good. I run 2013 mustang 17" rims for better tire selection. Dr Diff has a good axle length calculator on his site.
Mopar Green Bearings for 8 3/4" (8.75) and Dana 60
DoctorDiff Housing/Axle Calculator

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mderoy340 said:
I put a 64 b body rear in my 73 dart sport years ago. You can use green bearings with later style axles with the early housing ends. The studs on the axle housing flange will need to be replaced with slightly longer studs. Get some later style 10 or 11 inch backing plates and drums and you are good. I run 2013 mustang 17" rims for better tire selection. Dr Diff has a good axle length calculator on his site.
Mopar Green Bearings for 8 3/4" (8.75) and Dana 60
DoctorDiff Housing/Axle Calculator

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Really? That was a tapered axle housing? If so, I am mistaken. No surprise there. Sorry for any bad info.
 
mderoy340 said:
I put a 64 b body rear in my 73 dart sport years ago. You can use green bearings with later style axles with the early housing ends. The studs on the axle housing flange will need to be replaced with slightly longer studs. Get some later style 10 or 11 inch backing plates and drums and you are good. I run 2013 mustang 17" rims for better tire selection. Dr Diff has a good axle length calculator on his site.
Mopar Green Bearings for 8 3/4" (8.75) and Dana 60
DoctorDiff Housing/Axle
Click to expand...

What length axles did you use i may have a line on a set for a good price? Where did you get the backing plate and the rest of the internal parts from?
 
'62 and newer 8.75" housings share the same wheel bearing bore and backing plate bolt pattern. I install a narrower lock ring on the bearing to clear the shallow position of the inner axle seal.

You must also install '65 and newer spec inner axle seals and housing end studs.

For the record, '61 and earlier housings also share the same wheel bearing bore, but the backing plate bolt pattern differs.
 
DoctorDiff said:
'62 and newer 8.75" housings share the same wheel bearing bore and backing plate bolt pattern. I install a narrower lock ring on the bearing to clear the shallow position of the inner axle seal.


You must also install '65 and newer spec inner axle seals and housing end studs.

For the record, '61 and earlier housings also share the same wheel bearing bore, but the backing plate bolt pattern differs.
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Can you tell from these pictures if its a 62-64 or a 61 and earlier housing?
 
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Unless you are throwing a "ton" of HP at the rear end, that one should work as is. Personally, I'd pull it apart & check all of the bearings & if they are good, drive it like you stole it. LOL
 
Quinton Castle said:
What length axles did you use i may have a line on a set for a good price? Where did you get the backing plate and the rest of the internal parts from?
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Did this years ago and don't remember the axle length. They are used OEM axles, my friend had a garage full of different axles at the time. Any BBP brake setup works, I would get 11x2 or 10x2.5 at the junkyard.
 
If it's been pulling behind as a trailer then it's probably okay to run as is. I would check the brakes tho.
 
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CudaFactHackJob said:
If it's been pulling behind as a trailer then it's probably okay to run as is. I would check the brakes tho.
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And I would have the exact opposite disposition. If the unit had been in dry inside storage for the past 30 years I may guess that it is ok, notice I said may. But having been under a trailer for the past 30 years, stored outside in weather, rain, perhaps subject to seasonal floods,, and knowing that no one does any maintenance on trailers, and the trailer obviously has some use. I would plan to pull the center chunk, check the lash and gear pattern before tearing into it and then take it down and at a minimum change out the carrier and pinion bearings. If the back lash is way out and or the gear pattern is way off and or the ring and pinion is rusty or pitted, go after them to.
 
If the perches measure 44" on center and the housing ends are as close as they appear in your photos, you are in luck.

I think you have a '62-'63 B-body housing (53.25"), which is the next best thing to an A-body version (52.625").
 
DoctorDiff said:
If the perches measure 44" on center and the housing ends are as close as they appear in your photos, you are in luck.

I think you have a '62-'63 B-body housing (53.25"), which is the next best thing to an A-body version (52.625").
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What do I need to make the swap. I kno I need the green bearings and the axles and newer backing plates. Is that all?
 
They were running 413 motors in front of these rearends....so I guess if you're running more horse than one of those,,,the only reason to change axles...
 
CudaFactHackJob said:
They were running 413 motors in front of these rearends....so I guess if you're running more horse than one of those,,,the only reason to change axles...
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I changed out the axles and brakes on my car to later year parts since a previous owner tried to hammer the drums off and bent the hubs. You need a special puller to get those drums off and I'm not sure what brake parts are available for the earlier years. If the hubs on mine where straight I would of used as is.
 
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