DaveBonds
Garage Trash
Much like a big bolt pattern A body with an 8 3/4 that didn't happen, I've decided to build an iron case ball detent shift lever 30 spline O/D from leftovers.
I wants what I wants, so I went fishing for parts instead of a complete trans.
The party will start with the following nonsense;
What I'm dealing with is a 1969 iron case with the rusty *** reverse assembly still in it, '68 A body tailshaft housing with a 307 bearing size, 30 spline short mainshaft, .73:1 passenger car overdrive gears from who knows what that are in great shape, a 318/340 4.354" 10.5" / 130 tooth clutch/ flywheel bellhousing and a 5.125" 308 bearing front retainer.
I have the pedals and floor from a rollover accident Duster, a drawer full of new 3/8" heim joints from a $12 garage sale find and a hurst competition that I pulled out of a trash can.
I also have a few shift forks for my pivot. Not sure which one I'm going to butcher, but the clutch is going hydro, so no need for a Z bar.
All of the parts will fit, even though not all of them do, at the moment.
The synchros are 3/8" keys, so any 3/8 shells work and technically any 1/2/Reverse synchro set that will work on the 30 spline shaft with any size key should do it.
The bellhousing was indexed and marked, but after getting what I could, I'm going to need to cut the bell open.
The area at the fork pivot is the item of concern, so the 5.125" 308 retainer had to get trimmed down to 4.807"
It still does not fit the hole, obviously, but as you can see, the 4.807" resize will give enough allowance for the fork pivot bolt holes to bite.
It may seem like the clearances would raise concern, but the bolts only go into the front portion of the bellhousing and I'm only going to center and fly cut the bell enough to gain clearance for the housing to allow it to sit against the trans case.
Remember that all of the force from the fork is going to be back, against the trans case, making the hole clearance a non issue. As long as there is enough meat for the bolts to bite, to hold the fork pivot in place, its golden.
Everything is grimey, at the moment.
I'm going to need some seals, a small parts kit that can be had for $30 on ebay and two synchro rings, but other than that and the homemade hookups, I should be ready to start cleanup and building.
I need to buy some stainless rectangle stock for some lathe and mill tool rests, so I'm going to buy enough of it to bend up a bench seat pistol grip shifter.
The interior woodgrain has been replaced with zebra, so I found a matching knife/ gun handle bookmatched wood blank set to carve for the handle. I may use the stock pistol grip gear callout, I may make my own design and melt colored glass bead into it. We'll see!
I wants what I wants, so I went fishing for parts instead of a complete trans.
The party will start with the following nonsense;
What I'm dealing with is a 1969 iron case with the rusty *** reverse assembly still in it, '68 A body tailshaft housing with a 307 bearing size, 30 spline short mainshaft, .73:1 passenger car overdrive gears from who knows what that are in great shape, a 318/340 4.354" 10.5" / 130 tooth clutch/ flywheel bellhousing and a 5.125" 308 bearing front retainer.
I have the pedals and floor from a rollover accident Duster, a drawer full of new 3/8" heim joints from a $12 garage sale find and a hurst competition that I pulled out of a trash can.
I also have a few shift forks for my pivot. Not sure which one I'm going to butcher, but the clutch is going hydro, so no need for a Z bar.
All of the parts will fit, even though not all of them do, at the moment.
The synchros are 3/8" keys, so any 3/8 shells work and technically any 1/2/Reverse synchro set that will work on the 30 spline shaft with any size key should do it.
The bellhousing was indexed and marked, but after getting what I could, I'm going to need to cut the bell open.
The area at the fork pivot is the item of concern, so the 5.125" 308 retainer had to get trimmed down to 4.807"
It still does not fit the hole, obviously, but as you can see, the 4.807" resize will give enough allowance for the fork pivot bolt holes to bite.
It may seem like the clearances would raise concern, but the bolts only go into the front portion of the bellhousing and I'm only going to center and fly cut the bell enough to gain clearance for the housing to allow it to sit against the trans case.
Remember that all of the force from the fork is going to be back, against the trans case, making the hole clearance a non issue. As long as there is enough meat for the bolts to bite, to hold the fork pivot in place, its golden.
Everything is grimey, at the moment.
I'm going to need some seals, a small parts kit that can be had for $30 on ebay and two synchro rings, but other than that and the homemade hookups, I should be ready to start cleanup and building.
I need to buy some stainless rectangle stock for some lathe and mill tool rests, so I'm going to buy enough of it to bend up a bench seat pistol grip shifter.
The interior woodgrain has been replaced with zebra, so I found a matching knife/ gun handle bookmatched wood blank set to carve for the handle. I may use the stock pistol grip gear callout, I may make my own design and melt colored glass bead into it. We'll see!
