friction shocks

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scampy72

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can anyone tell me how i would make a set of friction shocks? i get the basic point, but im just not necessarily understanding the the set up. if anyone can tell me how to do it or even better show me a diagram if they can find one that would be awesome.

thanks
-marc
 
"I have built some in the past. There is no set way to build them. They are basically a friction pad (sometimes just leather) between two pieces of flat plate (shaped as needed) with a stud/bolt holding the plates against eack other with a spring. The tightening or loosening of the spring effects the amount of dampening. In the past I have made them using motorcycle parts for the friction devices, the steering stem of older bikes had a similar friction device that was used for the steering damper."

google sample hunt around online, lots of good hotrod info about them out there
:)
 
Why the heck would you want to?!? Once the hydraulic shock was developed, friction shocks very quickly went away industry wide. And this was during the height of the Great Depression, despite the fact that hydraulic shocks were significantly more expensive to produce. Why? Because even then, the best friction shock was worse than a cheap, basic hydraulic. And, comparing the best hydraulic of that period to a cheap hydraulic now, you just can't buy a shock that bad today. It would be like putting bias ply tires back on, but worse.

Fundamentally a friction shock operates exactly opposite the way a good hydro works. A friction shock requires a greater amount of force to "break it free" than it does once in motion. So it tends to be sticky on small bumps, but provide progressively less resistance to larger deflections. A hydro on the other hand will allow small movements with little resistance, but because they rely on fluid passing through a controlled passage, the faster/greater the amount of deflection the greater their resistance.

People bash KYB's for being stiffly valved, bordering on harsh. A friction shock would make this worse.
 

Marc, I don't understand your intended purpose for the information, but if you query information on any early MG's up, and into the 70's, they used them on the front and rear.

Do keep in mind that, other than the factory friction shocks, the friction shocks you see on most street rods are only used where there is minimal front end weight bias. For example T-buckets can run them, since the engine has so much setback, however, you will have difficulty running them in anything that has the engine sitting over the axle.

Some have internal coil springs and round 'friction discs' that are usually made from rubber, but most guys change the rubber out for polyurethane, which tends to help dampening.

In fact, I've got a set of rear friction shocks if you're really wanting to dissect some of them.

Southernman
 
NO postwar MG used friction shock absorbers, they were hydraulic. Unlike the telescoping shocks fitted to most post war American cars, these shocks used pistons connected to a lever arm. They were tunable, rebuildable and last a long time. In fact on the MGA and MGB the shock arms were the upper control arm. Simple and lightweight. Sadly they cost more than a disposable telescoping shock and have faded from the scene. Thank the McPherson strut for that.
 
this is for a traditional hot rod project for a friend, he doesnt like the look of regular shocks on the car and wanted something different so i told him about friction shocks INCLUDING the fact that they dont ride as smooth etc etc. he asked me to look into them for him and said if i can find a way to build a set it would be cool. he likes having friends work on his cars and likes unique pieces. i told him id look into it. also i figure if i can make them right then there might be something to making a few bucks on them on ebag, looking around i found that apparently there are a lot of guys from the trad rod scene looking for them.

also it would just be cool to learn to make something out of the ordinary
 
Here's photo of a scratch built friction shock for a hot rod. Note multiple arms and disks. This helps handle extra weight. Hope this helps.
 

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that does help darts, thanks! just a couple of questions a)i assume that all the arms connect together to the spring right? would that be by a second arm or ?? and b) what exactly does that big star shaped nut?? on the outside do?

also is that a spring on the inside?
 
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