Front end kit

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Yote

Yote

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Re : 72 demon - Wanting to install a complete front end and rear leaf kit in my car. Rear would appear to be a straight forward process. Doing the front brings me to the question, is this something a basic nut and bolt guy ( older ,me) should attempt ? I would be doing the work by myself.
 
Takes a few tools to do a complete rebuild. Something to press control arm bushings out and then back in. Those could be carried to a shop for that work. Rest is pretty straight2. Download a service manual 8f you dont have one, real helpful..
 
And i got Moog stuff from RockAuto. Complete parts including bearings, brakes, caliper kits etc cost me about 300 bucks. Somebody has a great parts list posted. Try searching for it. It helped me..
 
Thanks Ben, makes me feel a little more comfortable. Just didn't want to get it apart then realize I couldn't do it and be unable to take it somewhere in pieces. What is the opinion of PST kits? Merry Christmas !!!
 
Never used a PST kit so i cant really say. Their reputation here says it should be pretty good. I just found i could get all the parts in Moog brand a good bit cheaper so i went that way. I used all rubber. The rubber/poly debate has been beaten to death on here. I'm 100 percent cruising street car so it was rubber for me. If you're going for exceptional handling, might look at PST's kits with poly bushings.
 
I think the lca bushings are the only thing i used the press for. The rest was just hand tools, patience and determination. Upper control arm bushings required several beers to get out and in, but really wasnt all that bad.
 
The way I am anymore, I better wait on the beers until I am done for the day. If it gets too frustratating I may go straight to scotch.
 
Ben Drinkin said:
I think the lca bushings are the only thing i used the press for. The rest was just hand tools, patience and determination. Upper control arm bushings required several beers to get out and in, but really wasnt all that bad.
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X2, but I had the shop also press the upper control arm bushings, and the Moog offset bushings were used for extra caster. I sourced all my stuff from RockAuto, all Moog. What Torsion bars are you using?
 
I did some rigging for upper bushings.http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showpost.php?p=1970093355&postcount=51
Had a local garage press lca bushings and shafts in. I removed them with washer weld on meathod posted in several threads. Also had garage remove one of my upper ball joints. Had correct socket, but with a breaker bar and cheater pipe it would not stay in place. They used a big impact gun and had a much better air supply than I do.
 
Origional(?) torsion bars in place Cliff. Had not planned on changing them. Not going to be a daily driver or go to the track , just criusing and local shows ( not a virgin it can't win). I do have a press if I'm smart enough to do this.
 
you're plenty smart enough. I didn't think about needing a ball joint socket. you will need one to save you some serious cussing.
 
buying or making the specialty tools will be helpful. if you run into problems, just take the pieces to any good shop that has been doing this stuff for decades ( not newbies in other words)'

I was reading here or FBBO or ??? some MOOG stuff is being made in Chinna?????????? wondering because I have a car that will have to get all ne front end parts ebfore spring.

PST have been ion business for many years, so I figure their stuff is still good. I have used their rubber bushings years ago, no problems.
 
I've done a few rebuilds with PST kits, they work just fine. I second the suggestion that you get the front end rebuild tool set. I think I got mine from Mancini.
 
Just got through mine, like others, sourced Moog from Rock Auto. The torsion bars, boots , clips from PST. I also did the offset bushings.

Somewhere on this site is a thread about $11 ball joint socket, worked for me, but I am not sure on your ball joint size. Better to remove the old ball joints before you pull the upper arms. Also plenty of threads on how to remove the lca shells. Other than the socket, impact gun, air chisel, cutoff wheel, and a press didnt need any specialty bushing tools or such. It is an exercise in patience. Lol
 
yea, you can do it. I did my first one without knowing what I was up against and only owned some basic tools - learned as I went, bought the needed tools & books and figured it out - roll up your sleeves and dig in.. it's not like you're reinventing the wheel - and you have FABO
 
barbee6043 said:
I was reading here or FBBO or ??? some MOOG stuff is being made in Chinna?????????? wondering because I have a car that will have to get all ne front end parts ebfore spring.
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OK, so I just went in the garage to check out my Moog parts, still in boxes...all say "Made in USA". I'll have to take them for their word.
 
There are a few quirks to building a front suspension that a basic "nut and bolt guy" might not know. I've seen veterans of the industry make these mistakes.

1: Pre-loading the control arm bushings.
2: Backing the castellated nut off to align the cotter-pin hole on taper fittings
3: Improper wheel bearing packing and adjusting techniques
 
could you explain what you mean by pre-loading control arm bushings please?
 
sabre67 said:
could you explain what you mean by pre-loading control arm bushings please?
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Pre-loading would be the mistake. The suspension should be at its designated ride height before the control arm bolts are tightened. Not super critical but it can cause premature failure due to the bushing being wound up.
With the A bodies design the pre-load condition of the upper control arm might be alleviated during the alignment process if the alignment technician has to adjust both cams.
 
I've got all the parts now but haven't had the time with the holidays all running together. I went Moog rubber. Daily driver and want a factory ride. At 57 the modern rubber will outlive me. I made a complete list including pitman arm, shocks, all four tie rod ends, sleeves, bolts.... priced it all out at several sources and Rock Auto was cheapest per part but you pay shipping. I bought it all over a couple months (ie. Paychecks) from Summit making sure I spent over $100 each time and took advantage of their free shipping. In the end the price difference was not that much when you factored in the shipping.
 
clifftt said:
X2, but I had the shop also press the upper control arm bushings, and the Moog offset bushings were used for extra caster. I sourced all my stuff from RockAuto, all Moog. What Torsion bars are you using?
Click to expand...

You asked about torsion bars, I believe them to be original. How would I know if that is something that should be replaced? If so should I use the same size ( not daily driver or raced)?
 
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