Front tires wearing on outer edge

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k3522

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Prior owner converted car from /6 to 360 and upgraded torsion bars but now that the car has 6000 miles the outer 2" of tread is wearing way faster. I would like to lower the front about an inch. Is there a front ride height spec?
 
Is only the other edge wearing? Or does it feather edges twords the inside? If its only the outside its positive camber, if its the outside wearing in, then its toe in. (toe will kill tires faster than anything...FAST)
 
The inner edge is like brand new. The middle looks very good but the outer two inches is already at half tread..
 
I does sound like a toe issue, the stock toe setting is 1/16th to 1/8th toe in iirc. If you change the ride height it WILL change the toe, caster camber might change the toe depending on much you change it.
 
Did not look at driver side front. Will tonight. May need alignment. The car has had only had 6000 miles since the front end was done and I haven't hit anything? Maybe the prior owners mechanic screwed up? If I do need to get it realigned I will have to call around. I am not leaving it anywhere with out me. Just read the 340 motor horror story where the mechanic may have been "joy riding". I may consult the alginment mechanic about lowering the torsion bar settling.
 
I called local mopar guru and found a great place that does nothing but suspensions (Dais Springs, Erie, Pa). They do everthing from RVs to all classic cars. It is going in Friday affternoon. I am not messing with my safety. Blowing a front tire does not sound like my kind of ride. Thank you Goody for your help.
 
Do you have a carpenters square? 1/4" difference between the top and bottom of the rim on a 14" or 15" rim is about 1degree of camber. Does your tire sit with the top out or in? You can sight down the side of the car using the rear wheels to compare the front to also to see if they have positive camber. Why not take a tape measure to the tires to check toe?
 
I pick two points on the tread and hold the tape as high as I can go without it bending. 1/32" toe in this way is 1/16" measured the correct way. Also, since the tread isn't perfect, one should run a line along the tire tread by spinning it and marking it, and not disturbing the line while you settle the suspension. I can get more accurate results setting caster, camber, and toe with my tape measure, square, and machinist scale than places with their $50,000 racks and $10/hr. experts.
 
Toe in was 3/4" too much. All fixed but shop pointed out that my upper and lower a-arm bushings are dry rotted and while I was at it should replace torsion bar bushings. They gave me a quote of $730 parts and labor. Does that sound reasonable? They said it was 3 quarters of a day job and I could wait til fall if I didn't have the cash.
Correction, not torsion bar bushings the quote is for strut rod bushings.

I thought $730 seemed high!
 
Torsion bar bushings? Maybe they're referring to the strut rod bushings instead?

Also, as far as the upper and lower control arm bushings, are they still whole and just showing cracks or are they split? Most rubber bushings will show some cracking within a short time of install.

In either case for $730 I would get a 2nd opinion.
 
I do need to replace the bushings (upper & lower A-arm, strut rod). They are disinagrating and what is left is very cracked and split. Took a good look while the mechanic had it on the rack. There just isn't many places I trust. Thanks for the feedback that they are too high.
 
I don't think that is to high a price if it is parts & labour.The labour alone is about 6-8 hours providing everything comes apart nicely.Well it's apart good time to possibly replace upper & lower ball joints as well.Also make sure that you re-torque everything on the front end after a little mileage.

Ted
 
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