fuel pressure regulator

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Projectile Dart

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My dart has had a few symptoms and according to Google and the forums they can all be due to changes in fuel pressure so I am thinking of adding a regulator. I currently have a gauge that reads 5.4 psi at idle in park. I am running a stock style mechanical fuel pump on a 360 feeding a holley carb. I have a few questions...
1. Return line or no return line? (I see plenty of both online and I don't mind doing the work if there are benefits. Should keep fuel cooler?)
2. If I were to upgrade to an electric pump in the future, can I use the same regulator?
3. Where should I install it? (Pics help)
4. What are you running?
Thank you in advance
P.S. Yes, my floats are adjusted correctly
 
What does your gauge read when you're WOT?
(You can tape it to the cowl or windshield for a quick test)...
 
What does your gauge read when you're WOT?
(You can tape it to the cowl or windshield for a quick test)...
I can't move it around because its hard mounted to my fuel rail that connects to my carb. I can really only check at idle. Maybe I can try mounting my gopro under the hood to take a look at how it acts
 
I would guess that the pump may be getting weak & it's lack of fuel pressure at higher RPMs.
 
Quite likely, but it's still only a guess until you run a line from the rail to a gauge mounted where it can be seen while driving... :p
 
I would guess that the pump may be getting weak & it's lack of fuel pressure at higher RPMs.
I have suspected the pump being weak because it doesn't fill my clear fuel filter but its been working and pressure seems to be good at idle but the replacement carter pump is only $20, might be worth a shot to replace?
 
Either way, I guess I really should invest in a full set of gauges to get a better idea of what is going on. Maybe I can find a good black friday deal this weekend on a good set
 
I would think that you could still manually increase the throttle from the engine bay and note where the pressure goes without driving it.
 
The fuel consumption revving in neutral is only a small fraction of the demand at wide-open under load, though.
 
The fuel consumption revving in neutral is only a small fraction of the demand at wide-open under load, though.
I agree, but it's not real clear on what he's experiencing and any small anomaly with the fuel pump might be noticed or the car could be elevated with the rear off of the ground in gear is more what I was thinking.
 
A more useful stationary test would be: put a tee in the fuel line, with a ball valve into a graduated container. Bring the engine up to a couple or 3K RPM, and find out how fast you can fill the container and still keep the fuel pressure up :)
 
A more useful stationary test would be: put a tee in the fuel line, with a ball valve into a graduated container. Bring the engine up to a couple or 3K RPM, and find out how fast you can fill the container and still keep the fuel pressure up :)
:rofl::rofl::popcorn:
 
What's funny about that?:realcrazy:

I didn't laugh at your suggestion to raise the rear of the car - which won't work, because sure it'll turn the tires at highway speed, but there won't be any load (accelerating the mass of the car, and pushing against the wind resistance) - which is what requires large amounts of fuel.
 
What's funny about that?:realcrazy:

I didn't laugh at your suggestion to raise the rear of the car - which won't work, because sure it'll turn the tires at highway speed, but there won't be any load (accelerating the mass of the car, and pushing against the wind resistance) - which is what requires large amounts of fuel.
Chill out, your "more useful stationary " oneupmanship test isn't being laughed at. The picture of someone playing with gasoline under pressure, Tees and graduated containers and a ball valve while the car is be accelerated running elevated in gear is. So I'll see your crazy guy:realcrazy: and raise you:icon_fU:.:poke:
 
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