fuse box 68 cuda

-

cherokeechief79

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2016
Messages
82
Reaction score
14
Location
new jersey
we picked up a 68 cuda that was a race car for a long time.i think the only thing electrical he had working was the starter and possibly one brake lite.the wires seem to all be there and there is a fusebox just hanging on wires under the dash.i probed the fuses and there seems to be power at each side of all fuses but nothing electrical seems to be working.no radio dash lites heater motor etc.there are no headlites in the car yet so I don't know if they have power .a friend told me that the fusebox HAS to be attached to the firewall and plugged directly into the large connector coming in from the engine compartment.
is this true?
 
Review this. Download the file then once open you can manipulate the circuits by clicking on the layer symbol and clicking the eyeball to hide/unhide things.
 

Attachments

  • 68 Barracuda Factory Wiring REV 2.pdf
    120 KB · Views: 409
Last edited:
Only the later E body cars had the fuse box integrated with the firewall connector. All the older cars, the box was separate, mounted various ways under the dash, so you could easily pull them down to service

If you DO have power into the box, you have part of the battle won.

First you can download factory service manuals, and aftermarket wiring diagrams free over at MyMopar. Some of those manuals came from the guys here

MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - MyMopar Tools/Reference

A good read......even if you do not do this mod, is this "Mad" electrical article, as it gives a good insight into primary power:

Catalog

Of interest in that article is this diagram:

amp-ga18.jpg


While the diagram is incomplete, and simplified, it gives an idea of power distribution

"The path" power takes into the car is

Battery........fuse link....... (RED WIRE) bulkhead connector......ammeter.......through the ammeter.......and out ON THE BLACK WIRE

Next, notice the WELDED SPLICE. This is a factory splice a few inches from the ammeter in the black wire. It branches off and feeds (depending on model/ year)

Main power into ignition switch

Headlights ONLY power to the light switch

Main unswitched power into the fuse panel

Now the fuse panel has TWO busses. One of them is hot (ABOVE) fed from that splice.

The second buss is ACCESSORY power fed from the ignition switch, so the switch must be in "run" or "accessory."

First thing I'd do is give the fuse panel a good hard look........

You have hot power on the one buss, I guess

Do you also have power to the other buss with the key in "run"

Then make sure the fuse clips are clean and not rusty, the fuses good, and power on both sides

NOTE!! There is one fuse "at one end" of the box that is a "trick". This is the instrument lamps fuse It will NOT have power unless....

the tail fuse is good
the light switch is in park or head
the dash dimmer is turned to the left

That fuse is between the dash dimmer control and the dash lamps so the above conditions must be met, or it will not get power

Once you get that far, chase down each circuit individually, and look for cut / spliced / hacked wires along the way. Post back to this thread
 
I don't care what anybody says I hate this software
 
-
Back
Top