6.1 Hemi 69 Barracuda Fastback Father Son Project

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'Cuda_ragtop said:
Here is one on EBay.

View attachment 1716231453

View attachment 1716231454

View attachment 1716231455

Here is one from a Hellcat Challenger.
View attachment 1716231456

For those that don't have a late model Challenger. They look like this in a Challenger Dash.
View attachment 1716231463
My surround for comparison. Obviously the Bezel I had to work with has some limitations for the shape.
Also having never done this, it was a learn as I go and all done just by eyeballing it.
View attachment 1716231464
Click to expand...

Right, I know what they look like both in the new Challenger and separate. I just wondered what they look like without the bezel you molded in and if it could be grafted in without the raised lip. You have your bezel separated so I wonder what the IP looked like without the stock bezel.

'Cuda_ragtop said:
I used disposable Cake decorating frosting bags to mix the J-B Weld in, and then extrude the mixture out through a small hole cut in the tip of the bag.
Building the layers up like a human 3D printer. :)
Click to expand...

Nice solution, good thinking. I like it.
 
'Cuda_ragtop said:
Here is one on EBay.

View attachment 1716231453

View attachment 1716231454

View attachment 1716231455

Here is one from a Hellcat Challenger.
View attachment 1716231456

For those that don't have a late model Challenger. They look like this in a Challenger Dash.
View attachment 1716231463
My surround for comparison. Obviously the Bezel I had to work with has some limitations for the shape.
Also having never done this, it was a learn as I go and all done just by eyeballing it.
View attachment 1716231464

I used disposable Cake decorating frosting bags to mix the J-B Weld in, and then extrude the mixture out through a small hole cut in the tip of the bag.
Building the layers up like a human 3D printer. :)
Click to expand...
Unlike an actual 3D printer, I had to keep adding and sanding material multiple times...
There is a little bit of ABS sheet at the top and bottom to help bridge the gaps and then filled over and in between.
 
DionR said:
Nice solution, good thinking. I like it.
Click to expand...
I did have to grind away some of the Challenger cluster body where the alignment pins for the lens' are on the outer upper left and right corners of the cluster.
Also had to grind away some material on the back side of the Rallye Bezel where the Cluster was a little larger than the space...
I used the cluster as my mold, applied some clear shelf contact paper (Vinyl) as my release agent and to protect the lens while working on it.
 
Got the dash frame back from my painter.
It looks good with the "Satin Black Suede" paint from Charles Dallas @ 8774paint1.com
1712283469574.png

Set the old and improved Rallye Cluster in for a test fit. All Good!
Now what did I do with all the Dash Bezel fasteners? What did they even look like?
Refer back to disassembly pictures...
1712283317019.png
 
Well, so here the cluster is just held in with some tape. Was thinking about how to fasten the 2 together.
Had several thoughts about brackets, bending metal, nuts and screws, etc.
Then I kind of had an epiphany of sorts... Really very simple and using hardware I already had.
1712548297331.png


These were all I needed to attach the cluster to the bezel. Just had to drill 2 holes in the bezel webbing.
1712548587783.png


1712548687752.png

1712548720645.png

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It doesn't move at all. They are become one! ;-) but easy enough to separate if needed.
The cluster is way lighter than all that pot metal that used to live on the back of a Rallye Bezel. The digital cluster is very light. I'll use the 2 bottom cluster mounting tabs to add some support directly to the Dash Frame in addition to the 8 or so bezel mounting screws. Always try to do something as good or better than factory. Shouldn't be too difficult.

Have these vents for the Classic Auto Air AC/Heat.
Decided this would be a much better spot for the Driver/Passenger center vents vs under the dash.
The vents that come with the CAA kit look pretty cheesy to me so I got these off Amazon. I like that they have the thumbwheel On/Off. The CAA vents do not.
CAA controls will be in the Challenger Console.
1712553802721.png


Billet CAA Heat/AC controls will go here. Not my console but pretty much the same... pic is off ebay.
I'll fill in the 2 factory openings and then refinish it and make new openings as needed.
Maybe a couple more accessory holes; USB, USB c, Stereo Aux in, Seat Heater switches, other? TBD...
1712554047425.png
 
Great Idea! I'd like to suggest (you probably already took care of it) that you grind off the sharp points on the hook screws. We have all cut out fingers/hands working under the dash...........
 
jeffneal66 said:
Great Idea! I'd like to suggest (you probably already took care of it) that you grind off the sharp points on the hook screws. We have all cut out fingers/hands working under the dash...........
Click to expand...
Usually, I will opt for machine screws but I had these handy.
Considered finding and swapping but don't think it's really necessary.
Grinding the points off is a good call.
 
Ididit Tilt Steering column with incorporated EPAS Performance Electric Power Steering motor and PCS paddle shifters test fit together with the new gauge cluster. Line of sight seems pretty good.
It's hard to tell exactly where the seat will be without the gas and brake peddles installed. But I think it will be fine. The integrated gear indicator on the paddle shifters may cover a little of the bottom of the center of the screen area but may not cover any of the actual display area. The display screen is actually a little bit smaller than the full center space...

1713078953305.png


You can see the (+) and (-) on the paddles. Poor lighting and some glare on the downshift (-) paddle.
1713079054166.png

The Momo "Race" wheel is leather wrapped and 350mm (13.77") diameter.
Installed it without the horn button... missing a retainer or ring that keeps the button from falling through the hole in the wheel... I know I have it somewhere though.
This what the wheel looks like with the horn button.
1713079557486.png


The paddle shifter is sandwiched between the wheel and the wheel adapter.
Shown here with a simulated wheel transparency. Compatible with multiple wheel bolt patterns.
Comes with spacers that allow you to customize the amount of space between the wheel and the paddles.

1713080957161.png
 
Great choice on the steering wheel. I like how you are blending the old and new on the interior.
 
I wouldn’t be surprised if the Challenger cluster could display the current gear as well. If so, you could get rid of the one attached to the paddles.

I know my wife’s 200 can do it, but not sure on the Challenger.

Just a thought.
 
DionR said:
I wouldn’t be surprised if the Challenger cluster could display the current gear as well. If so, you could get rid of the one attached to the paddles.

I know my wife’s 200 can do it, but not sure on the Challenger.

Just a thought.
Click to expand...
It does.
The one with the paddles will be staying though regardless... Don't think it will be an issue.
 
Last edited:
2017-18 Challenger console modified to fit Classic Auto Air Controls.
Had considered upholstery for the new finish but concerned that the compound curves would require some serious stretching and no way to hold the edges from pulling back if I trimmed it inside the trim ring and I didn't want to wrap over the edges and lose the bright trim on the edge...
So...
From this
1713456223163.png

To this and then to...................this.............................................and this
1713456191273.png


1713456241029.png


Some ABS + J-B weld and some sand and fill and sand and fill and sand, etc...
Very happy and satisfied with the results. Once again turned out better than I was hoping for.
There is room underneath the AC controls for additional switches or ports but we will leave it for now and think about it for a bit...

Maybe I'll match this finish on the bottom half of the Rallye Dash Bezel instead of the factory "Dull Aluminum" color. Masking always is/will be a pain... Will also try to match the bright trim color of this bezel on the Rallye Dash Bezel edges, all to try to tie them together with similar finishes.

Trying very hard to do everything myself at this point $$$ my labor and material rates to myself is pretty hard to beat, compared to the local going shop rates... not to mention wait times.
 
'Cuda_ragtop said:
2017-18 Challenger console modified to fit Classic Auto Air Controls.
Had considered upholstery for the new finish but concerned that the compound curves would require some serious stretching and no way to hold the edges from pulling back if I trimmed it inside the trim ring and I didn't want to wrap over the edges and lose the bright trim on the edge...
So...
From this
View attachment 1716238271
To this and then to...................this.............................................and this
View attachment 1716238270

View attachment 1716238272

Some ABS + J-B weld and some sand and fill and sand and fill and sand, etc...
Very happy and satisfied with the results. Once again turned out better than I was hoping for.
There is room underneath the AC controls for additional switches or ports but we will leave it for now and think about it for a bit...

Maybe I'll match this finish on the bottom half of the Rallye Dash Bezel instead of the factory "Dull Aluminum" color. Masking always is/will be a pain... Will also try to match the bright trim color of this bezel on the Rallye Dash Bezel edges, all to try to tie them together with similar finishes.

Trying very hard to do everything myself at this point $$$ my labor and material rates to myself is pretty hard to beat, compared to the local going shop rates... not to mention wait times.
Click to expand...

Nicely done! I am impressed.
 
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